Mimosa's Juicy Street Build

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Mimosa

Mimosa

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Once I get this next group of things installed that's it other than setting up about 3 or 4 maps. Since this is just a street build I dropped getting a driveshaft and upgrading the torque converter. I was advised that it would be a waste of money and that if I wanted to do it later it really wouldn't be like I'm overlapping too much work.

MAYBE.... down the road I may do a 3.2L engine build for no other reason than just to have monster powerplant.

But right now I got to set aside funds for another car.
 

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Someone asked how I solved the SPL FLCA senor issue with my car being lowered. I don't remember where it was at so I'm posting it here to reference back to it.

20220409_131548.jpg
What exactly did you do? I lowered my car about a month ago and got this message yesterday. Itā€™s annoying as the car wonā€™t stiffen up while the ā€œchassis errorā€ is on the dash
 
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What exactly did you do? I lowered my car about a month ago and got this message yesterday. Itā€™s annoying as the car wonā€™t stiffen up while the ā€œchassis errorā€ is on the dash
This was the fix for SPL Front Lower Control Arms. I don't know what to do about OEM control arms. If you have a chassis error and the code shows that it's from the front adjuster then you may need to either raise the car a bit or find a way to adjust/modify the bracket.
 
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Vroomin350

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Ah ok
This was the fix for SPL Front Lower Control Arms. I don't know what to do about OEM control arms. If you have a chassis error and the code shows that it's from the front adjuster then you may need to either raise the car a bit or find a way to adjust/modify the bracket.
ah ok. I heard a lot of the rear sensor arms go bad from being lowered and some people come up with a solution. Thought thatā€™s what this was
 
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Ah ok

ah ok. I heard a lot of the rear sensor arms go bad from being lowered and some people come up with a solution. Thought thatā€™s what this was
Did you check to see what's tripping the chassis error using BimmerLink or some other diagnostics tool?

If it's the rear height sensor then it could be a few things. The bracket that holds the arm could be broken in which case Visconti and VTT have a replacement. Another thing is the orientation as shown below.

Incorrect Sensor - Large.jpg
Correct Senor - Large.jpg
 
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Vroomin350

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Did you check to see what's tripping the chassis error using BimmerLink or some other diagnostics tool?

If it's the rear height sensor then it could be a few things. The bracket that holds the arm could be broken in which case Visconti and VTT have a replacement. Another thing is the orientation as shown below.

Incorrect Sensor - Large.jpg
Correct Senor - Large.jpg
I have a jb4 and no codes come up. Nor do I have a CEL. But I figured jb4 would have picked it up šŸ¤·šŸ½ā€ā™‚ļøā€¦.

going to a shop now. I would have thought if it was the orientation I would have had the message long ago (been lowered 2 months)

Maybe itā€™s that bracket you spoke of, mind a link? Thanks for all the help my brother
 
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I have a jb4 and no codes come up. Nor do I have a CEL. But I figured jb4 would have picked it up šŸ¤·šŸ½ā€ā™‚ļøā€¦.

going to a shop now. I would have thought if it was the orientation I would have had the message long ago (been lowered 2 months)

Maybe itā€™s that bracket you spoke of, mind a link? Thanks for all the help my brother
A diagnostics check should tell you what's causing the chassis error. Whether it be the front or the rear sensor. I've always used BimmerLink. That's how I was able to know that it was my front sensor giving me issues. I've had trouble with the front and the rear and have fixed both.


These are for the rear. Very rarely do these need to be replaced. They usually get damaged during servicing. You should at least check if the bracket is damaged before buying these because it would be a waste of money.

https://www.viscontituning.com/products/a90-supra-rear-suspension-ride-height-sensor-bracket-upgrade

https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-a9x-supra-billet-ride-height-bracket/
 

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What happened to the widebody plans>?

You tease!
 

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***Updated 04/12/2022***
Current Pic:

View attachment 59227


BUILD SHEET:
  • MECHANICAL/PERFORMANCE
    • Tuning
      • Cloned ECU
    • Engine/Cooling/Exhaust/Powertrain:
      • Verus Air Oil Separator *will be removed*
      • Verus AOS Drain/Crank Case Vent line Kit *will be removed*
      • Verus 6 port Heat Shield *will be removed*
      • CSF Heat Exchanger
      • CSF Transmission Cooler
      • CSF Aux Radiator
      • AMS Charge Pipe *will be remved*
      • Armytrix Ceramic Coated Catless downpipe W/ Cat Simulator *will be removed*
      • MST Intake *will be removed*
      • MST Turbo Inlet *will be removed*
      • Remark Catback Exhaust
      • EOS Intake/Intercooler Manifold
    • Suspension/Wheels/Frame:
      • RS*R Best-i Active Coilover
      • Visconti Ride Height Sensor Bracket Upgrade
      • R1 Concepts Big Brake Kit- 6 piston front and 6 piston rear with E-brake
      • Torque Solution Strut Bars
      • MRG 82mm Stud Conversion Kit
      • Allstar Performance Spring Perch Spacer (seat rounded off to fit rubber perch)
      • Cusco Trunk Brace
      • SPL Front Lower Control Arm
      • 20" SSR SP1 Wheels (Customized to mount TPMS)
        • Front: 20x9.5 +22 MD 80mm Lip (+19 with spacers)
          • 3mm Wheel Spacers in the front
        • Rear: 20x10.5 +30 SL 105mm Lip
      • Michelin PS4S Tires
        • Front: 275/30 20
        • Rear: 305/30 20

  • AESTHETICS/AERO/NOT IMPORTANT
    • Engine Bay:
      • Verus Washer Fluid Cap
      • Verus Engine Bay Cap Kit
      • Verus Gas Cap
      • Verus A/C Cap Kit
      • MST Clear Intake Cover
      • AMS Engine cover
      • AMS ECU cover
      • NV Specialties CF Radiator cover
      • NV Specialties Rear Engine Bay Covers
      • TEQ Emblem
      • Dress Up Bolts Stage 1 Kit
      • HPS Bleeder Bolt
      • SCS Custom Plaque
      • Rexpeed Coolant Cover
    • Interior:
      • ECS Steering Wheel
      • Rexpeed V2 Key Fob Cover
      • AutoTecknic Paddle Shifters
    • Exterior:
      • AutoTecknic Carbon Mirror Cover
      • AMS Gloss Black Wind Deflectors
      • STREETHUNTER Wing (customized to fit A91 Spoiler)
        • Lift Support Depot 152 lbs Quick Release Trunk
      • Aimgain Roof Spoiler
      • P2uned Door Garnish (CF finished in body color)
      • Seibon MB Diffuser
      • Seibon MB Skirts
      • Seibon MB Front Lip
      • Seibon TSII Hood
      • Varis Track Edition Fenders
      • Varis Carbon Fiber Fender Protectors
      • Titanium Works Front Emblem w/backplate (painted)
      • Titanium Works Rear Toyota Emblem w/backplate4 (painted)
      • Titanium Works GR Badge
      • Titanium Works Supra Script (painted)
      • OEM Reflectors Shaved and Painted
      • Bumper Reflectors Smoked

Current parts that I have on hand:
  • Visconti Fueling Kit:
    • Sequential Port Injection w/ Injector Dynamics 1050x injectors
    • Flex Fuel Kit with Motiv Reflex Controller
    • Low Pressure Fuel Pump
  • EcuTek Tuning Kit
    • Planning on doing 3 or 4 maps.
  • EOS oil filter relocation Mod
  • DSS Axle

In planning
  • Stage 1 Pure Transmission Rebuild
  • Full Race Turbo Kit
The coilovers make normal and sport mode a little stiffer, but I like it that way. It's actually in the shop this week to readjust the raise the rear. I have micro-rubbing when I hit big dips when I first get on crappy bridges that have huge lips at the beginning and end of them.

I feel like that should take care of the rubbing and should help match the wheel gap in the front. It shouldn't change the stance of the car much or at all. As long as I can't fit my knuckles through the gap when laying my hand flat, it'll be fine.
Interested in getting your thoughts from a handling and ride perspective since I donā€™t see a lot of reviews out there for these RS-Rs. Have you taken the car to the track or done some canyon runs? Itā€™s 8k/14k springs, do you feel any understeer compared to stock or is it pretty balanced?

How is the damping adjustment, is it possible to tune the dampers with the car on the ground, or do you have to lift the car. And the ride does it feel underdamped (bouncy), which is what was causing the rub?
 
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What happened to the widebody plans>?

You tease!
I'm broke.šŸ˜­

Interested in getting your thoughts from a handling and ride perspective since I donā€™t see a lot of reviews out there for these RS-Rs. Have you taken the car to the track or done some canyon runs? Itā€™s 8k/14k springs, do you feel any understeer compared to stock or is it pretty balanced?

How is the damping adjustment, is it possible to tune the dampers with the car on the ground, or do you have to lift the car. And the ride does it feel underdamped (bouncy), which is what was causing the rub?
I'm definitely not the guy you'd want reviewing a car product.

To adjust the dampers you have to raise the car up, open the dust cover, and adjust the knob.

The car always follows the drive line I'm taking aside from when it experiences lift from a hump in the road. But then again I'm not driving on a track.

The car ride is quite a bit stiffer from OEM . There is a noticeable difference when changing between comfort and sport. The ride is not as comfortable as it used to be in either mode.

It has bounce when hitting shitty backroad dips. The main reason im rubbing is because I am running a 305/30 20 while lowered. If it was the typical 305 30 19 that everyone run there would have never been any of that I have experienced any rubbing any more after raising the rear by 4mm. That's how miniscule the rubbing was.
 
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Matt over at Insomnia Motorsport finished installing the Pure Stage 1 Transmission and EOS Oil Filter Mod (Now my car uses a filter from a Kia Stinger).

Transmission.jpg


I've got to drive it around for about 500 miles for the TCU to relearn everything.
 
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I messed up my window trim trying to clean it a few months back. I threw on the Revel CF trim kit to hide my screw up.

20220513_130206.jpg


I don't know if I'll keep it or not.
 
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Yo! Who do I need to bake cookies for to get a 6 port turbo kit around here.
Sponsored

 
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