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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

rwense

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What's the best practice after each HPDE session to cool the car down when off track. Are you letting the car idle for X amount of time? Has anyone used fan while idling to get some of the heat soak out?
If possible I do a cooldown lap. If I have to come in immediately then just a short jaunt up and down th paddock (more dor brakes). Then just pop the hood and let it idle for a min or so. When you shut the car off the fan will continue to run.
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I let my car run for 5-10 min after lapping. Gives the turbo time to cool down so you don’t bake oil inside it and end up with a failure.

pretty sure I also read that the water pump stays on after the car is shut down to help cool everything. Shuts off when the fan does.
 

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What's the best practice after each HPDE session to cool the car down when off track. Are you letting the car idle for X amount of time? Has anyone used fan while idling to get some of the heat soak out?
Also, chock wheels with something. Do not set the e-brake while the brakes are hot. In case you didn't already know.


I've been doing some research. Does ANY company make an LSD for the 2.0? I looked for half a day and couldn't find anything.
I am finding similar parts, though. I.E. the knuckles and hub assemblies are the same part numbers, so I wonder if 3.0 brakes bolt up. I wonder what else is the same...
Did anyone know Toyota lists three different knuckles with different steering angle and camber measurements? I had no clue.
 
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razorlab

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I am finding similar parts, though. I.E. the knuckles and hub assemblies are the same part numbers, so I wonder if 3.0 brakes bolt up. I wonder what else is the same...
Did anyone know Toyota lists three different knuckles with different steering angle and camber measurements? I had no clue.
EU 2.0 gets the 3.0 active rear diff as an option, same with the 3.0 brakes. I have heard the US based 2.0's don't have the same wiring harness so it's not just an easy swap for the rear diff.

Most things are the same on the 2.0

3.0 brakes bolt directly up. Same hubs. I've posted the three different knuckles a billion times here. It's standard (what everyone gets) and + or -.

Toyota #:

Right:
43211WAA01 (standard)
43211WAA02 (- negative camber)
43211WAA03 (+ positive camber)

Left:
43212WAA01 (standard)
43212WAA02 (- negative camber)
43212WAA03 (+ positive camber)

BMW #:

Right:
31216878614 (standard)
31216877202 (- negative camber)
31216877204 (+ positive camber)

Left:
31216878613 (standard)
31216877201 (- negative camber)
31216877203 (+ positive camber)
 
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EU 2.0 gets the 3.0 active rear diff as an option, same with the 3.0 brakes. I have heard the US based 2.0's don't have the same wiring harness so it's not just an easy swap for the rear diff.

Most things are the same on the 2.0

3.0 brakes bolt directly up. Same hubs. I've posted the three different knuckles a billion times here. It's standard (what everyone gets) and + or -.

Toyota #:

Right:
43211WAA01 (standard)
43211WAA02 (- negative camber)
43211WAA03 (+ positive camber)

Left:
43212WAA01 (standard)
43212WAA02 (- negative camber)
43212WAA03 (+ positive camber)

BMW #:

Right:
31216878614 (standard)
31216877202 (- negative camber)
31216877204 (+ positive camber)

Left:
31216878613 (standard)
31216877201 (- negative camber)
31216877203 (+ positive camber)
I was trying to find a mechanical diff since the e-diff isn't an option. I tried all the usual suspects, with no luck. I also can't find another car that shares the diff, so no way to back door it that way. Open diff will have to be something for me to think about.
Brakes would be a win. I already have a set of 3.0 Premium rears at the house.

Yep. Those are all the specs I saw for the knuckles. 🤞 :headbang:
 

razorlab

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I was trying to find a mechanical diff since the e-diff isn't an option. I tried all the usual suspects, with no luck. I also can't find another car that shares the diff, so no way to back door it that way. Open diff will have to be something for me to think about.
Brakes would be a win. I already have a set of 3.0 Premium rears at the house.

Yep. Those are all the specs I saw for the knuckles. 🤞 :headbang:
Every G-series 2.0L BMW shares the diff with the 2.0L Supra.
 

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Every G-series 2.0L BMW shares the diff with the 2.0L Supra.
Good to know, thanks. I'll take a look. Seems that the 2.0 is only $10k less than a 3.0 so I had better be okay with spending more to possibly go slower. As long as it's enjoyable, and I can manage to embarrass a few "faster" cars, I'm good with it.
 

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You could always swap in a 3.0 diff and then put a mechanical lsd in it. Won’t be cheap though.
 

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Also, chock wheels with something. Do not set the e-brake while the brakes are hot. In case you didn't already know.
How do you guys with manuals manage this? Just bring a big 2x4 to back into? I’ve just been shutting the car off and letting the fans run, but would prefer to let it idle for a few minutes instead.

If I temp the rotors with a laser gun is there a temp where it’s safe to put the e-brake on?
 

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How do you guys with manuals manage this? Just bring a big 2x4 to back into? I’ve just been shutting the car off and letting the fans run, but would prefer to let it idle for a few minutes instead.

If I temp the rotors with a laser gun is there a temp where it’s safe to put the e-brake on?
Shut it off and leave it in gear.
 

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What's the best practice after each HPDE session to cool the car down when off track. Are you letting the car idle for X amount of time? Has anyone used fan while idling to get some of the heat soak out?
After doing a cool down lap on track, I let the car idle in paddock for a few minutes with the hood open, then shut the car off. We have used fans blowing on the heat exchangers in between sessions to help out when it's very hot.
 

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To the other posts asking, once the engine has reached normal operating temps (usually by the end of the cool down lap), I pop the hood and let it idle for maybe a minute. After double checking the temps are fine I'll shut it off. Modern turbo's that are water cooled don't have the issues older cars had, and it's not like we're shutting them off while still cherry red.

Don't use the e-brake at a track day. It's useful in parking lots that have weird angles, when you're jacking the car up, or trailering it, but any time the brakes are really hot you don't want to use it.
 

kaj

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You could always swap in a 3.0 diff and then put a mechanical lsd in it. Won’t be cheap though.
I looked into this a bit. People were having problems making drivelines and axles fit, if I remember right. I stopped reading after that. I can revisit to see if there is a change. I'm sure someone on this site has looked into it all, by now.

How do you guys with manuals manage this? Just bring a big 2x4 to back into? I’ve just been shutting the car off and letting the fans run, but would prefer to let it idle for a few minutes instead.

If I temp the rotors with a laser gun is there a temp where it’s safe to put the e-brake on?
You can use anything that keeps the car from moving. You can leave in gear as mentioned above. If you don't like doing that, then just jam something under a tire. Wood, a jack handle, a $5 chock from Harbor Freight, or whatever else you have laying around.
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