Supra_UK_
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi,
I found out something today, might be futile/irrelevant for most, but I read a few people talking about this so thought I'd share - kind of a long story so if you don't like reading maybe skip this one.
Disclaimer: this applies to Manual Supras, I can't confirm if it will work with Autos because I'm not sure how the AT Park gear works in conjunction with the electronic hand brake and whether it will affect your ability to roll the car with the engine OFF.
Applicable to mostly Not daily driven Supras, and for people that tend to wash their Supra, dry it and put it away in the garage like me and leave it for a while.
You will have had the issue when you come to move off after a day or a week (the longer the worse) the car is stuck as water/superficial rust seizes on the disc so you lift the clutch and nothing happens until eventually there's a loud clunk / release which feels awful.
I have tried all the usual methods:
- Driving up and down the driveway and braking (didn't help) old neighbour gets worried too.
- Using a high pressure car drier hose to dry wheels/brakes blasting out trapped water- still same issue...
The next issue is, I only drive my Supra every 10-14 days as a special occasion, low mileage, so I'm super anal about cold starts and generally avoid any cold start like the plague if it's not going to be driven thereafter, and warmed up properly. I tested this and if you drive off it comes to temp in about 5 minutes, but if you let it sit and idle, it won't reach temps so it's pointless and only "damages" the engine.
So I used to come the garage 1 day after storing it, turn it on and move it, to get rid of the clunk.
Now however, I simply park it in the garage as normal, put it in neutral, and DON'T engage the electronic parking brake.
My suspicion was that the car would simply apply it on its own as a safety measure after a few minutes if you forgot to put it on, but it DOES NOT, which is what I wanted, though some might find this to be bad news.
Now all I have to do, this is my advice: grab any 2 spokes of a wheel firmly with your hands, and Gently rock the car back and forth, you'll be surprised how easy it is to move it. You can easily rock it back and forth a few inches, and you'll notice right at the beginning, a metallic clunk, which is the seizing of the brakes releasing from the movement, now so easily fixed, so you don't have to worry of leaving it for a while parked after washing and being "stuck".
I just use a couple of small weight plates as chocks just in case it should move (it never did and won't but to have 100% peace lf mind...)
Hope this helps anyone having the same conundrum.
I found out something today, might be futile/irrelevant for most, but I read a few people talking about this so thought I'd share - kind of a long story so if you don't like reading maybe skip this one.
Disclaimer: this applies to Manual Supras, I can't confirm if it will work with Autos because I'm not sure how the AT Park gear works in conjunction with the electronic hand brake and whether it will affect your ability to roll the car with the engine OFF.
Applicable to mostly Not daily driven Supras, and for people that tend to wash their Supra, dry it and put it away in the garage like me and leave it for a while.
You will have had the issue when you come to move off after a day or a week (the longer the worse) the car is stuck as water/superficial rust seizes on the disc so you lift the clutch and nothing happens until eventually there's a loud clunk / release which feels awful.
I have tried all the usual methods:
- Driving up and down the driveway and braking (didn't help) old neighbour gets worried too.
- Using a high pressure car drier hose to dry wheels/brakes blasting out trapped water- still same issue...
The next issue is, I only drive my Supra every 10-14 days as a special occasion, low mileage, so I'm super anal about cold starts and generally avoid any cold start like the plague if it's not going to be driven thereafter, and warmed up properly. I tested this and if you drive off it comes to temp in about 5 minutes, but if you let it sit and idle, it won't reach temps so it's pointless and only "damages" the engine.
So I used to come the garage 1 day after storing it, turn it on and move it, to get rid of the clunk.
Now however, I simply park it in the garage as normal, put it in neutral, and DON'T engage the electronic parking brake.
My suspicion was that the car would simply apply it on its own as a safety measure after a few minutes if you forgot to put it on, but it DOES NOT, which is what I wanted, though some might find this to be bad news.
Now all I have to do, this is my advice: grab any 2 spokes of a wheel firmly with your hands, and Gently rock the car back and forth, you'll be surprised how easy it is to move it. You can easily rock it back and forth a few inches, and you'll notice right at the beginning, a metallic clunk, which is the seizing of the brakes releasing from the movement, now so easily fixed, so you don't have to worry of leaving it for a while parked after washing and being "stuck".
I just use a couple of small weight plates as chocks just in case it should move (it never did and won't but to have 100% peace lf mind...)
Hope this helps anyone having the same conundrum.
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