Supra (?) Rogue Engineering Short Shifter

[Funkjaw]

I’ve got 0 rubbery feeling and no excess play with my RE Short Shifter and rear carrier bushing set up. And that’s with a weighted shift knob.

I’m very happy with how everything feels especially with the clutch pedal stopper. $20 bucks to do what a $600 RE clutch pedal would do is a hell of a value mod.

Can you elaborate on the clutch pedal stopper? I've been eyeballing the RE short throw clutch pedal because I want the clutch pedal to physically be lower so I can left foot brake easier. So I am confused how the clutch pedal stopper mimics the RE cluck pedal?

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[lucky phil]

Can you elaborate on the clutch pedal stopper? I've been eyeballing the RE short throw clutch pedal because I want the clutch pedal to physically be lower so I can left foot brake easier. So I am confused how the clutch pedal stopper mimics the RE cluck pedal?

It won't and doesn't. It's just a stop that eliminates the dead zone after the clutch disengages. It doesn't change the effective clutch pedal to pressure plate travel ratio
Phil

 

[Funkjaw]

It won't and doesn't. It's just a stop that eliminates the dead zone after the clutch disengages. It doesn't change the effective clutch pedal to pressure plate travel ratio
Phil

Thx for clearing that up!

 

[lucky phil]

Thx for clearing that up!

There are no magical "game changing" solutions with any of these driveline mods. It's all just fiddling around the edges. If you want faster 1st to 2nd shifts then reduce the ratio jump between first and second gears and/or reduce the reciprocating mass of the gearset to make the syncros life easier. Problem is on forums it's often hard to get a realistic idea about anything because people tend to exadurate things usually in the positive direction of what they have spent time and money on. Same with the expensive aftermarket short throw shifter that eliminates the supposed "rubbery feel" of the OEM unit or the "game changer" CDV delete. The real issues if there are actually any are inherent in the component design and the fact that the car is a "road car" designed for everyone including soccer mums to drive,ther're not dedicated track cars. If they were the cost would be much higher with the use of exotic materials. Imagine people trying to cope with a tall first gear and clutch pedal effort or noise on a clutch that will take 1000lbs of torque on a daily commute. It might be catagorised as a "sports car" but it's still biased heavily towards daily use mechanically as far as most things are concerned.
Phil

 

[Eastwood]

Can you elaborate on the clutch pedal stopper? I've been eyeballing the RE short throw clutch pedal because I want the clutch pedal to physically be lower so I can left foot brake easier. So I am confused how the clutch pedal stopper mimics the RE cluck pedal?

The clutch stop is just a thicker bump stop compared to stock. The pedal stays in the same position but it reduces the dead travel space at the bottom which is the similar as the RE pedal. The RE pedal does have a little bit lower orientation to be in line with the brake pedal.

I am not sure if the RE Pedal lets you lower the actual pedal height.

 

[Eastwood]

There are no magical "game changing" solutions with any of these driveline mods. It's all just fiddling around the edges. If you want faster 1st to 2nd shifts then reduce the ratio jump between first and second gears and/or reduce the reciprocating mass of the gearset to make the syncros life easier. Problem is on forums it's often hard to get a realistic idea about anything because people tend to exadurate things usually in the positive direction of what they have spent time and money on. Same with the expensive aftermarket short throw shifter that eliminates the supposed "rubbery feel" of the OEM unit or the "game changer" CDV delete. The real issues if there are actually any are inherent in the component design and the fact that the car is a "road car" designed for everyone including soccer mums to drive,ther're not dedicated track cars. If they were the cost would be much higher with the use of exotic materials. Imagine people trying to cope with a tall first gear and clutch pedal effort or noise on a clutch that will take 1000lbs of torque on a daily commute. It might be catagorised as a "sports car" but it's still biased heavily towards daily use mechanically as far as most things are concerned.
Phil

Blah blah fucking blah

 

[tracer bullet]

RE clutch pedal is much lower for sure. It's inline with the brake pedal instead of being 1 to 1-1/2" higher. It's easily measurable, no guessing needed. They've revised the geometry slightly in a few places to do that. They claim a shorter throw, and I haven't crunched the geometry numbers to know if that is true or not. But the relocation (lowering) is immediately felt and that sort of makes it hard to guess at any throw changes.

CDV was worth it to me as well. Maybe not all would notice it. There was some slipping that is now gone (that would show up if you let off the pedal really fast).

 

[Syrihl]

Got around to installing the bushing kit from ind-distribution.com and the Rogue Engineering short shifter. Used the YT videos below and instructions from nameless (thanks!):





Pulled the under body panel, exhaust, and heat shield above the driveshaft. I was able to pull the entire shifter assembly out without removing or even rotating the driveshaft by sliding off the rear bushing mount first. You have to squish/squeeze the rubber boot seal with the shifter assembly around the driveshaft but wasn't too hard.

Couple of nitpicks about the short shifter. The most recent model I received looks a little bit different from the original pictures I've seen. The color of the wrap is blue instead of grey (no functional difference) and the pivot ball has cut out indentions on either side. The pivot ball also seems to be located a little lower on the threads compared to older photos. Also I ended up having to Dremel off some of the trim at the base of the shifter boot since it was rubbing the front in 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears. Mostly resolved with only a minor amount of rubbing/squeak in 5th gear.

Overall extremely satisfied. New bushings and Rogue short shifter feel amazing. The throw is shortened a full 1/2 inch and shifts are much more crisp with a slight "schnick" when sliding into gears. No increased vibration/noise and shifts are just as smooth but firmer and more mechanical. Measured from 3rd gear to the back of the shift knob in 4th gear. Stock picture is on top.

 

[AJRMKV]

I have the clutch master shifter bushing and the Fx1000 clutch. Can confirm it feels like shit engaging first gear.

shifter travel between 3rd and second or from 1st to second is also garbage.

In any case I wasn't expecting much, aftermarket in the automotive industry is basically shithead engineering

 

[tracer bullet]

... the pivot ball has cut out indentions on either side. The pivot ball also seems to be located a little lower on the threads compared to older photos.

I know I could email Rogue (they seem to actually reply) but will ask here first. Any ideas on either of these, the reasoning? It's interesting that the ball height is adjustable, it would appear you can set it wherever you want. You'd want to be sure things don't get too far out of alignment, otherwise it looks like you can set the height of that ball and the ratio of the shortening of the shifter itself. Spin the ball up or down and get a longer or shorter throw.

The grooves in the ball are also interesting, no idea on those but they are of course intentional. There's a chance it's related to machining the ball itself, some way to hold it during one of the operations. Maybe a spot to hold some grease but kind of doubting that.

 

[Syrihl]

I know I could email Rogue (they seem to actually reply) but will ask here first. Any ideas on either of these, the reasoning? It's interesting that the ball height is adjustable, it would appear you can set it wherever you want. You'd want to be sure things don't get too far out of alignment, otherwise it looks like you can set the height of that ball and the ratio of the shortening of the shifter itself. Spin the ball up or down and get a longer or shorter throw.

The grooves in the ball are also interesting, no idea on those but they are of course intentional. There's a chance it's related to machining the ball itself, some way to hold it during one of the operations. Maybe a spot to hold some grease but kind of doubting that.

I emailed Rogue but haven't gotten a reply yet. Seems like you'd be able to adjust the pivot point but the instructions say it voids any warranty if you do and the ball seems to be threadlocked where it is. Either way it feels great.

 

[lucky phil]

I know I could email Rogue (they seem to actually reply) but will ask here first. Any ideas on either of these, the reasoning? It's interesting that the ball height is adjustable, it would appear you can set it wherever you want. You'd want to be sure things don't get too far out of alignment, otherwise it looks like you can set the height of that ball and the ratio of the shortening of the shifter itself. Spin the ball up or down and get a longer or shorter throw.

The grooves in the ball are also interesting, no idea on those but they are of course intentional. There's a chance it's related to machining the ball itself, some way to hold it during one of the operations. Maybe a spot to hold some grease but kind of doubting that.

The grooves in the ball are so you can get a thin wrench on the ball and set/change the position on the threaded section I would imagine. The thread is either a tight thread class to stop it migrating or held in place with loctite I'd say.
Phil

 

[lucky phil]

I have the clutch master shifter bushing and the Fx1000 clutch. Can confirm it feels like shit engaging first gear.

shifter travel between 3rd and second or from 1st to second is also garbage.

In any case I wasn't expecting much, aftermarket in the automotive industry is basically shithead engineering

Thanks for an honest review on an aftermarket product. Most people don't have the balls for it. And you are correct on the aftermarket industry BTW. Very,very little of it is any good in engineering terms.
Phil

 

[Syrihl]

The grooves in the ball are so you can get a thin wrench on the ball and set/change the position on the threaded section I would imagine. The thread is either a tight thread class to stop it migrating or held in place with loctite I'd say.
Phil

Ben from Rogue replied and confirmed that it was a newer revised version of their shifter and meant to be that way.

 

[lucky phil]

Ben from Rogue replied and confirmed that it was a newer revised version of their shifter and meant to be that way.

Funny. So he replied with no detailed reasoning just the "bleeding obvious" ?
Phil

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