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Transmission and Differential fluid change

monkahead

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The extra specs on the NON-LS aren't beneficial for your diff, and generally the LS additive is never a bad thing to have in any differential with a clutch pack (whether dynamically or electronically activated). Plus, the GL-4 rating on the NON-LS points to it having less Extreme Pressure additives, which is definitely a negative. If it were me, I'd use the 300 LS.
I'm thinking to change diff oil on my car around 10k km and found this post. I used Motul Gear 300 as a transmission oil on my Miata, which I used on track, and never had any issues with transmission. When you compare specs you can see that LS version has a bit higher density and therefore this one is recommended by Motul www for Supra.

MOTUL GEAR 300 LS 75W-90: https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/gear_300_ls_75w-90_en_de_motul_34210_20240923.pdf

" Contains a special friction modifier to avoid noisy or dragging limited slip differential. "

MOTUL GEAR 300 75W-90:
https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/gear_300_75w-90_en_de_motul_34200_20240923.pdf

Price in Poland is approx. 20USD for 1 liter, so it's 1/3 of OEM BMW oil which I'm sure is exactly the same product, since BMW doesn't manufacture oils ;)

Ravenol LS 75W90 is even a few bucks cheaper than Motul.

Ravenol LS 75W90:
https://www.ravenol.de/storage/app/media/product-pdf/Tds_1222102_en.pdf

However Ravenol www recommends RAVENOL VGL SAE 70W-80 for Supra with LS diff which fulfills spec BMW Hypoid Axle Oil G4, so maybe this is the best one for our LS diffs:

https://www.ravenol.de/en/product/g...ebe-und-antriebsachsen/ravenol-vgl-sae-70w-80
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FLtrackdays

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I'm thinking to change diff oil on my car around 10k km and found this post. I used Motul Gear 300 as a transmission oil on my Miata, which I used on track, and never had any issues with transmission. When you compare specs you can see that LS version has a bit higher density and therefore this one is recommended by Motul www for Supra.
If it were me, I'd use the 300 LS.
Updated found on Turner MS and a few other race sites to confirm what @lucky phil @razorlab said:

Motul Gear 300 LS (105778) contains elevated friction modifiers (≥ 3.5% MOS2) that conflict with the electronic LSD’s preload calibration, potentially causing chatter during low-speed maneuvers.

Conclusion

The 2022 Toyota Supra 3.0’s differential unequivocally requires GL-5 75W-85/90 (or heavier weight) gear oil to meet its hypoid gear protection and electronic LSD compatibility needs. While aftermarket GL-4/GL-5 dual-rated fluids like Motul Gear 300 are acceptable, LS-specific formulations should be avoided. Adherence to Toyota’s 08885-02606 specification ensures optimal performance and preserves warranty coverage. For track-driven vehicles, reduce service intervals to 15,000–20,000 miles and monitor fluid condition using spectroscopy analysis.
 
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Setoville

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I just successfully did my transmission and differential fluid at home. Thanks to everyone here for the info, it's good.

I learned a few things that I hope others will find useful.

  • Transmission oil is smelly, but diff oil smells WAY worse. Keep a fan around to circulate the air.
  • The "stubby" 8mm from tekton allen will fit the very tight space for the transmission fill plug. link below
  • Differential drain plug uses a crush washer. The fill plug kit does not have a new crush washer for the drain plug. I happened to have a correctly-sized crush washer laying around.
  • Use a flat-head screwdriver to help remove the diff drain plug sensor.
  • Diff fill plug is a lot easier to access when you remove the rear diff vibration absorber. E12 torx, 21 ft lbs to tighten.

parts I used:
https://www.tekton.com/8-mm-stubby-short-arm-ball-end-hex-l-key-klx87080

oil pan+filter: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ga8hp45z-ga8hp70z-oil-pan-and-filter-kit-zf-24118612901
ATF: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lifeguard-8-automatic-transmission-fluid-1-liter-s67109031201
diff fill plug: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-drain-plug
diff oil: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hypoid-g4-axle-oil-genuine-bmw-83222447362
 

NINaudio

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I just successfully did my transmission and differential fluid at home. Thanks to everyone here for the info, it's good.

I learned a few things that I hope others will find useful.

  • Transmission oil is smelly, but diff oil smells WAY worse. Keep a fan around to circulate the air.
  • The "stubby" 8mm from tekton allen will fit the very tight space for the transmission fill plug. link below
  • Differential drain plug uses a crush washer. The fill plug kit does not have a new crush washer for the drain plug. I happened to have a correctly-sized crush washer laying around.
  • Use a flat-head screwdriver to help remove the diff drain plug sensor.
  • Diff fill plug is a lot easier to access when you remove the rear diff vibration absorber. E12 torx, 21 ft lbs to tighten.

parts I used:
https://www.tekton.com/8-mm-stubby-short-arm-ball-end-hex-l-key-klx87080

oil pan+filter: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ga8hp45z-ga8hp70z-oil-pan-and-filter-kit-zf-24118612901
ATF: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lifeguard-8-automatic-transmission-fluid-1-liter-s67109031201
diff fill plug: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-drain-plug
diff oil: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hypoid-g4-axle-oil-genuine-bmw-83222447362
Any chance you know the size of the crush washer needed for the drain plug?
 

Setoville

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Any chance you know the size of the crush washer needed for the drain plug?
I don't remember the exact size, sorry. I just compared the existing crush washer against the kit I have here:
https://www.amazon.com/maierke-Aluminum-Assortment-Automotive-Washers/dp/B0DC9YMCLT

If I were to do it again, though, I would just buy the diff drain plug for $3.85 and have the peace of mind. "Screw Plug with O - RI".
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/toyota__GR-Supra/Differential-Drain-Plug/16070765/90118WA263.html
 

i3igpete

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Out of curiosity, I ordered both the Toyota 90118-WA263 "Screw plug with o-ri" and BMW 33117525064 "Differential Drain/Fill Plug". Both of them came with a pre-installed o-ring, and neither of them had a crush washer. ?‍♂

IMG_20250402_091550.webp
 

razorlab

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Out of curiosity, I ordered both the Toyota 90118-WA263 "Screw plug with o-ri" and BMW 33117525064 "Differential Drain/Fill Plug". Both of them came with a pre-installed o-ring, and neither of them had a crush washer. ?‍♂

IMG_20250402_091550.webp
I think he was talking about the sensor, which is also the drain plug. It has a washer but it's captive, so not sure why he added two washers.

The big fill plug you bought have an o-ring built in. Which is why it's good to change it out for a new plug each time.

Screenshot 2025-04-02 at 11.42.44 AM.jpg
 

i3igpete

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Oh I'm dumb, I thought the diff cover bolt in the service manual screenshot was a drain bolt this whole time.

1743609857248-ve.webp
 

razorlab

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Oh I'm dumb, I thought the diff cover bolt in the service manual screenshot was a drain bolt this whole time.

1743609857248-ve.jpg
Hahah would make it easier. Getting that plug off the sensor is always such a pain in the ass. I've done it five times already and I still swear each time. lol
 

monkahead

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I just successfully did my transmission and differential fluid at home. Thanks to everyone here for the info, it's good.
I have 2 questions for this DIY.

#1: Before removing the oil pan, have you drained the oil (measured how much was drained), refilled it (to exact same amount what has been drained), run through the gears to flush the converter and next drained the oil again, replace the oil pan, refill oil again and run though the gears following ZF manual?

#2: how have you measured oil temp within range 40-50C in order to have a proper oil level after final refill?
 

razorlab

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I have 2 questions for this DIY.

#1: Before removing the oil pan, have you drained the oil (measured how much was drained), refilled it (to exact same amount what has been drained), run through the gears to flush the converter and next drained the oil again, replace the oil pan, refill oil again and run though the gears following ZF manual?

#2: how have you measured oil temp within range 40-50C in order to have a proper oil level after final refill?
It's very straightforward and no need to measure, in fact, that might give you an under filled trans.

You drain the oil, you put fresh oil in until it overfills out the fill. You put the fill plug in, turn the car on and run it through the gears to operating temp. You can use bimmerlink to keep an eye on the transmission temp. With the car still running and trans up to temp, you take the fill plug out, if fluid comes out, you let it until it stops. You are done. If NO fluid comes out, you add until it overflows.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-change-the-oil-in-a-zf-8-speed-transmission
 

monkahead

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Does 2.0 Supra have an OEM transmission oil cooler (radiator)? Because there's a different procedure by ZF to replace the oil if it does.
 

Loco38SUP

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Here is my contribution to the thread. I recently changed my differential and transmission fluid @12k miles.

The differential fluid wasn’t bad overall but it was darker and had particles floating in it.
IMG_0560.webp


The transmission had more wear than I would have thought for only 12K miles. The 4 magnets were coated with metal and the bottom of the pan had metal sludge.
IMG_0582.webp

IMG_0579.webp


Also the pan was leaking as several have noted on the forum. It appeared to be coming from the fill plug. It must have vibrates loose after 4 years. I removed 6.2 L and filled 6.3 L so I was missing about 100mL from the leak.
IMG_0566.webp


-RJM
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