Audio upgrade options

[METAL]

@Don Alex

Thanks for sharing, very nice to see another custom sub install. This build seems aimed more towards a SPL setup.

What did they use to send signal to the amp?

Sponsored

 

[dazza]

Whats behind that panel on the left?
Can you show us pictures from behind the seats towards the subwoofer area how they built this?
its hard to tell the shape of the box from the pictures.

Does it rattle?

Amazing they got that huge Sub in there firing backwards.
What did you do with the fronts, rears and centre channel to match the subwoofer?

I have a 10 inch Audison 800w rms low profile subwoofer facing upwards and this produces a lot of bass and goes very low. I'm only driving it with about 240w rms amplifier and its more than sufficient. Your SUB must really crank.

 

[Don Alex]

@Don Alex

Thanks for sharing, very nice to see another custom sub install. This build seems aimed more towards a SPL setup.

What did they use to send signal to the amp?

Yeah, that what they said. Ive never heard of SPL before. But yeah, the most guys take M10 and M12's for competion and not for listening to music in a sportscar I'm just a guy who is loving damn heavy bass.

They used the Helix AAC.3, hope you meant that.

Whats behind that panel on the left?
Can you show us pictures from behind the seats towards the subwoofer area how they built this?
its hard to tell the shape of the box from the pictures.

Does it rattle?

Amazing they got that huge Sub in there firing backwards.
What did you do with the fronts, rears and centre channel to match the subwoofer?

I have a 10 inch Audison 800w rms low profile subwoofer facing upwards and this produces a lot of bass and goes very low. I'm only driving it with about 240w rms amplifier and its more than sufficient. Your SUB must really crank.

On the left is the Amp. If i unscrew it I can adjust the bass.

If i remember I will take some pics. on the back is actually simply a plate of wood. They cut the original cover, and put a wood plate on it. They said its too hard to build the part around the middle console. Its of course also covered, as seen in the trunk. Its looks pretty clean.
All the other speakers are stock. They said theyre good enough. Maybe I swap them in the future for something, buts its currently not planed.

You mean the car itself? No, not really. The Supra is very well built. My Celica T23 cant handle 400 rms, its shaking like crazy. One part had some problems. Its the cover around the third breaking light. It rattles and it was subsequently insulated.

The amp runs 3400W RMS at 1 Ohm. It's crazy. I have never heard anything like this. While playing around with the subwoofer, the alarm systems of the parking cars around the shop have been activated. That was a little uncomfortable.

 

[dazza]

Just some updated pictures of my subwoofer area. I am happy with the audio and there are no rattles at all. I am just not entirely please with the area behind the seats and havent figures out how to improve the design so it looks more OEM. When the seats are back it looks perfect so its not like anyone can tell. I used a rubber back carpet and simply cut it to the shape of the original panel.

If you look at the pictures Ive taken. The rear panel simply magnetically attaches to the subwoofer box where I have mounted magnets into the case. Its solid and doesn't budge.

On either side of the subwoofer box its packed with foam and then there is a foam covered carpet on either side as filler panels. Because the sub box is slightly taller than OEM (1inch) it needs to be packed to bring it to correct height.

I remade the trunk base board into two parts so you can get to the battery, as the original base board would fit anymore. It has an aluminium notch so its easy to lift up for servicing.

 

[dazza]

Yeah, that what they said. Ive never heard of SPL before. But yeah, the most guys take M10 and M12's for competion and not for listening to music in a sportscar I'm just a guy who is loving damn heavy bass.

They used the Helix AAC.3, hope you meant that.



On the left is the Amp. If i unscrew it I can adjust the bass.

If i remember I will take some pics. on the back is actually simply a plate of wood. They cut the original cover, and put a wood plate on it. They said its too hard to build the part around the middle console. Its of course also covered, as seen in the trunk. Its looks pretty clean.
All the other speakers are stock. They said theyre good enough. Maybe I swap them in the future for something, buts its currently not planed.

You mean the car itself? No, not really. The Supra is very well built. My Celica T23 cant handle 400 rms, its shaking like crazy. One part had some problems. Its the cover around the third breaking light. It rattles and it was subsequently insulated.

The amp runs 3400W RMS at 1 Ohm. It's crazy. I have never heard anything like this. While playing around with the subwoofer, the alarm systems of the parked cars around the shop have been activated. That was a little uncomfortable.

Wow that is awesome wish I could hear it. Please send the pictures of the back area I am very interested

 

[Don Alex]

Wow that is awesome wish I could hear it. Please send the pictures of the back area I am very interested

Thank you! I will try my best remember.

 

[METAL]

Yeah, that what they said. Ive never heard of SPL before. But yeah, the most guys take M10 and M12's for competion and not for listening to music in a sportscar I'm just a guy who is loving damn heavy bass.

They used the Helix AAC.3, hope you meant that.

Yes I was. SPL means sound pressure level vs the alternative SQ, which is what my build was based around.

I bet if you replaced that loc with a MOST 25 dsp like a mObridge unit that @dazza uses you can really fine tune that sub channel for better sound.

 

[Don Alex]

Yes I was. SPL means sound pressure level vs the alternative SQ, which is what my build was based around.

I bet if you replaced that loc with a MOST 25 dsp like a mObridge unit that @dazza uses you can really fine tune that sub channel for better sound.

Thank you for the tip, maybe I give it a try in the future!

 

[Don Alex]

Wow that is awesome wish I could hear it. Please send the pictures of the back area I am very interested

Alright, here you go. What you dont see, at both ends, a triangle is missing on both sides, a gap is currently visible. I left out the triangles for the time being because you can't see anything once the seats are moved back.

 

[METAL]

Alright, here you go. What you dont see, at both ends, a triangle is missing on both sides, a gap is currently visible. I left out the triangles for the time being because you can't see anything once the seats are moved back.

Clean.

 

[dazza]

Alright, here you go. What you dont see, at both ends, a triangle is missing on both sides, a gap is currently visible. I left out the triangles for the time being because you can't see anything once the seats are moved back.

Hi thanks, look like they left the orignal cover in and then covered it. looks all tidy. you must be happy with it?

 

[Don Alex]

Hi thanks, look like they left the orignal cover in and then covered it. looks all tidy. you must be happy with it?

Like I said, they used the original cover and they cut the top and back off. They only used the part you see behind the seats. They had to cut the top of the original cover off, because they needed the room for the sub. Yes, i'm very happy with it. Nobody have ever noticed that there is somthing built together in the back. And because of the original cover it fits perfect around any corner of the storage compartment.

 

[dazza]

Hi, yes I think that is a good way to do it, maybe I need to just do that in my search for perfection.

 

[Thill444]

Okay I did the Tada upgrade (ports, wadding, EQ adjustment, ASD, etc). It’s a big improvement. I really don’t want to spend $2-3K+ on speaker/sub upgrades but am wondering what the next best steps are on a budget. I saw the Bavsound speaker upgrade (both just the speakers without the subs aNd the subs). I like the idea of drop in replacements and really don’t want to splice wires and lose factory connectors. But I also don’t want to spend $700-1000 on something just marginally better.

I could go all in and get a good amp/dsp combo and some Morel components (big fan of Morel). But I’m just not sure it’s worth it since my next upgrade is louder exhaust and eventually catted down pipe.

 

[METAL]

Okay I did the Tada upgrade (ports, wadding, EQ adjustment, ASD, etc). It’s a big improvement. I really don’t want to spend $2-3K+ on speaker/sub upgrades but am wondering what the next best steps are on a budget. I saw the Bavsound speaker upgrade (both just the speakers without the subs aNd the subs). I like the idea of drop in replacements and really don’t want to splice wires and lose factory connectors. But I also don’t want to spend $700-1000 on something just marginally better.

I could go all in and get a good amp/dsp combo and some Morel components (big fan of Morel). But I’m just not sure it’s worth it since my next upgrade is louder exhaust and eventually catted down pipe.

Next step would be @tadda door enhancements.

After that the best option is the mObridge K2 amp/dsp. You can use this to power all your oem speakers and replace them as needed.

Sponsored