Audio upgrade options

[dazza]

I dropped my car off at the shop yesterday to start my audio build utilizing aftermarket equipment and removing the oem enclosure and building a new one. I'm thinking starting a separate thread and document the progress.

Yes, please I would like to see how they rebuild the subwoofer area. I struggled to keep the structure light and not take up much more space than the original. Its harder than it looks especially behind the seats where there are all sorts of angles as it slopes towards the trunk.

I did not want to cut the original parts in case I wanted to put it back to original spec.

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[METAL]

Yes, please I would like to see how they rebuild the subwoofer area. I struggled to keep the structure light and not take up much more space than the original. Its harder than it looks especially behind the seats where there are all sorts of angles as it slopes towards the trunk.

I did not want to cut the original parts in case I wanted to put it back to original spec.

Based off the sub requirements they may not need to protrude towards the trunk area but will need to increase the height. I requested to do a ported rear firing enclosure vs the up ward enclosure most have done.

 

[dazza]

Based off the sub requirements they may not need to protrude towards the trunk area but will need to increase the height. I requested to do a ported rear firing enclosure vs the up ward enclosure most have done.

That will be interesting look forward to the result. They need to be careful with height towards the seats as the top of the seat may hit the box. Make sure it doesn't encroach further than the aluminium bar. Or make it an angle. If that makes sense.

 

[METAL]

That will be interesting look forward to the result. They need to be careful with height towards the seats as the top of the seat may hit the box. Make sure it doesn't encroach further than the aluminium bar. Or make it an angle. If that makes sense.

Yes the idea is to flow with the oem styling. I trust the shop as they specialize in fabrication.

 

[Philp]

I also bought the Mobridge MOST25 Amplifier + Technic PnP Harness and am running the 4v pre-out to a JL JD500/1 + JL CS112LG-TW3 (overkill I think). I bought it from WirelessAircard as I didn't even think to reach out directly. This was my first time ever doing anything related to car audio and the experience ranged from complete disaster and thinking I destroyed the amp to a day to day increase in satisfaction as I get better at tuning.

I'd be interested in seeing how the rest of you wired this thing + your tunes / dsp settings. I feel more confident now and am thinking about tearing it down one more time to make sure everything is perfect. I also want to try wiring the JL sub straight to the mobridge amp now that I have more experience with the DSP software.

I will also say Mobridge was awesome to work with. They answered all of my panicky/noob questions and got me to the finish line.

 

[METAL]

I also bought the Mobridge MOST25 Amplifier + Technic PnP Harness and am running the 4v pre-out to a JL JD500/1 + JL CS112LG-TW3 (overkill I think). I bought it from WirelessAircard as I didn't even think to reach out directly. This was my first time ever doing anything related to car audio and the experience ranged from complete disaster and thinking I destroyed the amp to a day to day increase in satisfaction as I get better at tuning.

I'd be interested in seeing how the rest of you wired this thing + your tunes / dsp settings. I feel more confident now and am thinking about tearing it down one more time to make sure everything is perfect. I also want to try wiring the JL sub straight to the mobridge amp now that I have more experience with the DSP software.

I will also say Mobridge was awesome to work with. They answered all of my panicky/noob questions and got me to the finish line.

Yeah that's a lot of equipment. I wanted lighter/simpler setup. I am hoping 500w rms is enough to satisfy my bass needs.

 

[Don Alex]

i had a long trip to get the bass i wanted. first i got two Ampire Active10-SL. they were both installed behind the seats. because they are very flat i didn't lose much space. but i could push the seats about 2.5 inch less backwards. both subwoofers have 500w rms together (250w rms each).

I drove around for about 2 weeks and realized that this is not enough for me. I also wanted to have the small piece of space behind the seats back.

so i went back to the store where i got the subwoofers installed. we figured out how to get more bass in. i set 3 conditions.
1. i dont want anything behind the seats, not even an amplifier.
2. i don't want to lose much space in the trunk.
3. i want it to be fixed, so no box with a subwoofer

we decided to install a Ground Zero GZRW 6XSPL. Although it has only 350w rms and is also only 6.5 inches, it was much stronger than the two ampire together. i think because it is not so "flat". i was allowed to test it briefly and was not sure. the staff was already desperate. then the boss was called. he has decided it should be an eton move m10. (Eton on the left, ground zero und the right)

A 10 inch subwoofer with 1000w rms, but according to the boss it can also withstand much more. its peak is at 2000w. i was also allowed to test it and was in love. this thing is insane! i wanted to have it but the employees said that without a custom-made installation its impossible and even then it will be very tight. i gave the order and they started. to power the eton properly they choose a Ground Zero GZCA 3.0SPL-M1 as an amplifier.

the original subwoofers were both removed. a new box was built for the Eton, that was screwed tightly to the body of the Supra. they took the existing screw points. then the small box that is probably meant for the emergency call was relocated and the amplifier was screwed to the side of the subwoofer. they had to relocate even the small emergency call box because the large subwoofer itself needs this small space aswell. then a fairing was sawed, covered to match the trunk and screwed onto it so that it looks neat.

a few days later i was there again. in the amplifier is an active fan that was too loud for me. even when i turned off the music, it kept running. i had it replaced with a small carbon fan. now i don't hear it anymore.

now i'm very satisfied. it's more power than you need. at just under 15% of the maximum power at the amplifier, you can't tell which song is being played. you can't understand a single word of the lyrics. but i'm now in love!

 

[METAL]

@Don Alex

Thanks for sharing, very nice to see another custom sub install. This build seems aimed more towards a SPL setup.

What did they use to send signal to the amp?

 

[dazza]

Whats behind that panel on the left?
Can you show us pictures from behind the seats towards the subwoofer area how they built this?
its hard to tell the shape of the box from the pictures.

Does it rattle?

Amazing they got that huge Sub in there firing backwards.
What did you do with the fronts, rears and centre channel to match the subwoofer?

I have a 10 inch Audison 800w rms low profile subwoofer facing upwards and this produces a lot of bass and goes very low. I'm only driving it with about 240w rms amplifier and its more than sufficient. Your SUB must really crank.

 

[Don Alex]

@Don Alex

Thanks for sharing, very nice to see another custom sub install. This build seems aimed more towards a SPL setup.

What did they use to send signal to the amp?

Yeah, that what they said. Ive never heard of SPL before. But yeah, the most guys take M10 and M12's for competion and not for listening to music in a sportscar I'm just a guy who is loving damn heavy bass.

They used the Helix AAC.3, hope you meant that.

Whats behind that panel on the left?
Can you show us pictures from behind the seats towards the subwoofer area how they built this?
its hard to tell the shape of the box from the pictures.

Does it rattle?

Amazing they got that huge Sub in there firing backwards.
What did you do with the fronts, rears and centre channel to match the subwoofer?

I have a 10 inch Audison 800w rms low profile subwoofer facing upwards and this produces a lot of bass and goes very low. I'm only driving it with about 240w rms amplifier and its more than sufficient. Your SUB must really crank.

On the left is the Amp. If i unscrew it I can adjust the bass.

If i remember I will take some pics. on the back is actually simply a plate of wood. They cut the original cover, and put a wood plate on it. They said its too hard to build the part around the middle console. Its of course also covered, as seen in the trunk. Its looks pretty clean.
All the other speakers are stock. They said theyre good enough. Maybe I swap them in the future for something, buts its currently not planed.

You mean the car itself? No, not really. The Supra is very well built. My Celica T23 cant handle 400 rms, its shaking like crazy. One part had some problems. Its the cover around the third breaking light. It rattles and it was subsequently insulated.

The amp runs 3400W RMS at 1 Ohm. It's crazy. I have never heard anything like this. While playing around with the subwoofer, the alarm systems of the parking cars around the shop have been activated. That was a little uncomfortable.

 

[dazza]

Just some updated pictures of my subwoofer area. I am happy with the audio and there are no rattles at all. I am just not entirely please with the area behind the seats and havent figures out how to improve the design so it looks more OEM. When the seats are back it looks perfect so its not like anyone can tell. I used a rubber back carpet and simply cut it to the shape of the original panel.

If you look at the pictures Ive taken. The rear panel simply magnetically attaches to the subwoofer box where I have mounted magnets into the case. Its solid and doesn't budge.

On either side of the subwoofer box its packed with foam and then there is a foam covered carpet on either side as filler panels. Because the sub box is slightly taller than OEM (1inch) it needs to be packed to bring it to correct height.

I remade the trunk base board into two parts so you can get to the battery, as the original base board would fit anymore. It has an aluminium notch so its easy to lift up for servicing.

 

[dazza]

Yeah, that what they said. Ive never heard of SPL before. But yeah, the most guys take M10 and M12's for competion and not for listening to music in a sportscar I'm just a guy who is loving damn heavy bass.

They used the Helix AAC.3, hope you meant that.



On the left is the Amp. If i unscrew it I can adjust the bass.

If i remember I will take some pics. on the back is actually simply a plate of wood. They cut the original cover, and put a wood plate on it. They said its too hard to build the part around the middle console. Its of course also covered, as seen in the trunk. Its looks pretty clean.
All the other speakers are stock. They said theyre good enough. Maybe I swap them in the future for something, buts its currently not planed.

You mean the car itself? No, not really. The Supra is very well built. My Celica T23 cant handle 400 rms, its shaking like crazy. One part had some problems. Its the cover around the third breaking light. It rattles and it was subsequently insulated.

The amp runs 3400W RMS at 1 Ohm. It's crazy. I have never heard anything like this. While playing around with the subwoofer, the alarm systems of the parked cars around the shop have been activated. That was a little uncomfortable.

Wow that is awesome wish I could hear it. Please send the pictures of the back area I am very interested

 

[Don Alex]

Wow that is awesome wish I could hear it. Please send the pictures of the back area I am very interested

Thank you! I will try my best remember.

 

[METAL]

Yeah, that what they said. Ive never heard of SPL before. But yeah, the most guys take M10 and M12's for competion and not for listening to music in a sportscar I'm just a guy who is loving damn heavy bass.

They used the Helix AAC.3, hope you meant that.

Yes I was. SPL means sound pressure level vs the alternative SQ, which is what my build was based around.

I bet if you replaced that loc with a MOST 25 dsp like a mObridge unit that @dazza uses you can really fine tune that sub channel for better sound.

 

[Don Alex]

Yes I was. SPL means sound pressure level vs the alternative SQ, which is what my build was based around.

I bet if you replaced that loc with a MOST 25 dsp like a mObridge unit that @dazza uses you can really fine tune that sub channel for better sound.

Thank you for the tip, maybe I give it a try in the future!

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