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Winter Storage

bmyota

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I live in Ontario, Canada, and winter is coming soon with that I have a few questions about indoor storage

The car will be sitting inside a garage for 4-5 months and won't be driven until spring so I want to make sure I protect my baby my plans are,

1. Full tank of gas with fuel stabilizer
2. Inflate tires
3. CTEK MXS 5 tender
4. Fresh oil

Are there any things I should do differently or things I missed?
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bmyota

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Forgot to mention the cars still in its break-in phase less than 2000 km and no oil change yet if that affects anything
 

sup.dc2

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I'm storing mine til i finish moving. doing what OP mentioned and maybe sitting on jack stands. putting a battery tender. set HVAC controls to recirc to close the fresh air duct. thats it i think.
 

razorlab

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I'm storing mine til i finish moving. doing what OP mentioned and maybe sitting on jack stands. putting a battery tender. set HVAC controls to recirc to close the fresh air duct. thats it i think.
You want fresh air moving through the car. HVAC doesn't really matter as there are vents in the car anyway. You wouldn't be able to close the doors or hatch without them.
 

MisterSkiz

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Don't start the car for any reason unless you are going to drive it - most wear happens on startup with motors as they do not have oil in the top end.

I used to go overboard storing my cars (I'm in Northern IL) - just fill tires, gas with stabil, dont start it, change oil in spring.

I dont even cover my car anymore either -gets dusty but whatever.
 

FuzzyRev

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maybe sitting on jack stands
I never recommend storing this (or any modern car) with the suspension unloaded and hanging down. Most control arms have bonded rubber bushings that can't freely rotate, and they are tightened with the arms in the level "ride-height" position. Anywhere other than that up or down, and they are being strained and flexed. It's the same reason you're never supposed to fully tighten control arm, panhard rod, or shock mounts until the vehicle is on the ground. It creates an additional spring rate the vehicle shouldn't have, and massively increases the rate of rubber degradation.

All these Honda clowns that put BLOX or (insert cheap name here) rear LCAs on, tightened the bolts in the air, and then promptly put the already lowered car down and drove off..bushings were torn clean in 3-6 months.
 

MisterSkiz

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I never recommend storing this (or any modern car) with the suspension unloaded and hanging down. Most control arms have bonded rubber bushings that can't freely rotate, and they are tightened with the arms in the level "ride-height position. Anywhere other than that up or down, and they are being strained and flexed. It's the same reason you're never supposed to fully tighten control arm, panhard rod, or shock mounts until the vehicle is on the ground. It creates an additional spring rate the vehicle shouldn't have, and massively increases the rate of rubber degradation.

All these Honda clowns that put BLOX or (insert cheap name here) rear LCAs on, tightened the bolts in the air, and then promptly put the already lowered car down and drove off..bushings were torn clean in 3-6 months.
Very good point.

I never put mine on stands just in case of fire and needed to move it out of the garage asap.
 

aldwin1999

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Put some winter tires on it and drive it in the winter hehe, planning to do that when the roads are nice and plowed but it's just cold out. Feel like early fall and late winter it's very driveable in the Greater Toronto Area since we have great plowers
 

sup.dc2

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You want fresh air moving through the car. HVAC doesn't really matter as there are vents in the car anyway. You wouldn't be able to close the doors or hatch without them.
I see, i read that somewhere i thought it was so rats didnt get in there and tear shit up. good thing i asked.

I never recommend storing this (or any modern car) with the suspension unloaded and hanging down. Most control arms have bonded rubber bushings that can't freely rotate, and they are tightened with the arms in the level "ride-height" position. Anywhere other than that up or down, and they are being strained and flexed. It's the same reason you're never supposed to fully tighten control arm, panhard rod, or shock mounts until the vehicle is on the ground. It creates an additional spring rate the vehicle shouldn't have, and massively increases the rate of rubber degradation.

All these Honda clowns that put BLOX or (insert cheap name here) rear LCAs on, tightened the bolts in the air, and then promptly put the already lowered car down and drove off..bushings were torn clean in 3-6 months.
yea that makes sense. i store my honda on stands when its not racing. good thing im on spherical bushings lol
 

concept

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Don't start the car for any reason unless you are going to drive it - most wear happens on startup with motors as they do not have oil in the top end.

I used to go overboard storing my cars (I'm in Northern IL) - just fill tires, gas with stabil, dont start it, change oil in spring.

I dont even cover my car anymore either -gets dusty but whatever.
Do you remove the battery? It's better to connect the tender, IMO.
 

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taiyaki

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i’m also in ontario and will be storing during winter. should i/we still change the oil when spring comes when break in still isn’t done yet? first new car tia.
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