Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Rob_SER]

Pad transfer layer is even and consistent on all rotors... I really don't know what to think about it...

A lot if people said to keep driving and it'll get better eventually, but it seemed to me it got worst the more the day went by....

Tried a few different track pads on different cars over the past 15 years and never experienced that, so I'm confused

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[Kamber]

Just got back into a Supra!

Appreciate the wealth of knowledge that this thread is, and I’m sure it’s been discussed before in the 196 pages here, but wasn’t able to easily find a definitive answer via google searching the forum. What are the typically necessary/recommended aftermarket arms to achieve a solid track alignment, assuming one is already planning on running 2-way adjustable coilovers? I will be running 200TW endurance tires (a la ECF or V730s) and looking for a dual purpose track/street alignment; car will see ~8 HPDE events per season (driven to/from the track, not trailered) and be street driven in between. Not looking to go more aggressive than -3.5’ish on any corner for the sake of tread wear.

What I've got purchased/planned so far:
- Verkline front caster arms
- Some sort of JRZ/MCS/Moton 2WR or 2WNR coilovers

Unsure what all else would be "needed" vs "nice to have" in terms of aftermarket arms and achieving a track alignment on this platform.

Thanks for the advice, all!

 

[FLtrackdays]

Pad transfer layer is even and consistent on all rotors... I really don't know what to think about it...

A lot if people said to keep driving and it'll get better eventually, but it seemed to me it got worst the more the day went by....

Tried a few different track pads on different cars over the past 15 years and never experienced that, so I'm confused

Like Bryan said, you really got to bed (burn) those suckers in. At least rotors aren't too expensive for our cars now (RockAuto.com). You can always buy another set if you can't seem to sort it out.

Unsure what all else would be "needed" vs "nice to have" in terms of aftermarket arms.

Adjustable Verkline LCAs if you can find them

 

[Evolution]

Same thing on the 60/30s. But I also street drive, so my material buildup is causing the vibrations.

I street drive too but it’s like 100 miles a month. Not sure if that is enough to cause any issues. But again, even though I thought I bed them in good enough (they smelled horrible and were smoking) it may not have been enough.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I street drive too but it’s like 100 miles a month. Not sure if that is enough to cause any issues. But again, even though I thought I bed them in good enough (they smelled horrible and were smoking) it may not have been enough.

I've been on Hawk DTC 60/30 the majority of my 11k miles. Street & track mix. Only had the weird bed in issue once using the same rotors and Paragon pads. Likely my fault. An old track buddy & good friend did it for me with the new ones (rotors and pads), I rode shotgun, and it was violent as hell, lol

 

[tomfree]

For all the track junkies, any of you get vibrations from the rotors after a while on track?

Installed the Project My Club Racer and went to my first track day, and after 10 minutes of lapping I get horrible vibration under braking and always getting worst...

Went to the track shop, asked them to change the brake fluid and bleed the system, still has not fixed the issue...

One instrctutor emitted the hypothesis that there might me an issue with the rotors since the hat in aluminium and the crown steel (but the rotor is not floating), they do not react to heat the same way, so a floating rotor could fix the issue....

What do you guys think? Before spending thousands on floating rotors, I'd like to see if some of you guys using OEM rotors experienced the same thing?

My initial theory was air un the braking system, I thought I might have fucked up something when I changed the fluid, but after 2 fluid change, still not fixed...

Thanks for your inputs!

Like many others have said, it's a bedding issue, or in this case, lack thereof. I will say that the CSGs can kind of re-bed themselves. I just leave the track pads in my car all the time these days, so sometimes the pads will be just street use for months. Front brakes start to squeal, and I'll feel some vibration. First session back on track, pads feel awful, bite isn't great and the vibration is bad.

2nd session, everything is right again. Bite is great, vibration is much less or gone entirely. My take is that the hot pads clean everything off the rotors in the first crappy session and essentially re-bed themselves. When I drive back home, pads are quiet again and work fine cold.

 

[Rocksandblues]

Pad transfer layer is even and consistent on all rotors... I really don't know what to think about it...

A lot if people said to keep driving and it'll get better eventually, but it seemed to me it got worst the more the day went by....

Tried a few different track pads on different cars over the past 15 years and never experienced that, so I'm confused

New pads w diff composition have to be bed in properly. It is a violent process when done properly. 100% issue is uneven material deposit.

 

[garudathree]

get a set of race pads like gloc r18 to even out pad deposits while daily driving (cold rotor/pads) if you screwed up the bedding process, then put the preferred pads back on.

 

[Rob_SER]

New pads w diff composition have to be bed in properly. It is a violent process when done properly. 100% issue is uneven material deposit.

Thanks for all your inputs, really appreciate it.

What does not make sense to me is, why would I be able to lap 10-12 minutes with no real vibration issues and then progressively get more and more vibration for the remaining of the 20min session?

Let the car cool down, go back on track, same thing...

I've had cars with uneven brake pads deposit before, it felt similar to what I'm experiencing, but it felt like that all the time, not only after the brakes get hot

 

[garudathree]

that's how you know it's from poor bed in, after your pad and rotors transition from abrasive friction to adherent.

 

[i3igpete]

ran 7 sessions at gingerman yesterday, noticed that the trans cooler (pump? fan?) is pretty lazy and would only kick on once every ~5 minutes but that would be enough to bring it WAY down.

does anyone know if this can be controlled via custom trans tune or bm3/mhd? Upgrading the pan or the heat exchanger seems unnecessary if all we need is a software change.

 

[razorlab]

ran 7 sessions at gingerman yesterday, noticed that the trans cooler (pump? fan?) is pretty lazy and would only kick on once every ~5 minutes but that would be enough to bring it WAY down.

does anyone know if this can be controlled via custom trans tune or bm3/mhd? Upgrading the pan or the heat exchanger seems unnecessary if all we need is a software change.

Looks like you are logging the wrong item. What are you using to log?

 

[i3igpete]

using whatever the autologger for jb4 is. can you share what the dataset looks like on bm3? i wonder what "transf" actually is, then.

 

[razorlab]

using whatever the autologger for jb4 is. can you share what the dataset looks like on bm3? i wonder what "transf" actually is, then.

It almost looks like it could be radiator fan duty/speed or something.

Trans temp is a gradual increase through the session. Here are two BM3 logs. This also mirrors what I see when I log the straight CAN trans temp ID#

 

[i3igpete]

Hmmm looking through the jb4 forums it looks like it could possibly be the (hotside) of the intercooler loop. Seems plausible, but the behavior still seems weird.

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