Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Vegas17]

Picked up a 24mm Whiteline front sway bar. Do you have to use the adjustable links or stock links are OK?

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[Rob_SER]

Vibration with new pads is almost always a bed/transfer issue. changing pad types and material on same rotors just makes it harder. try light sand of rotors and rebed.

That's what I did 2 weeks ago, we'll see if it's better on my next track day in 2 weeks. What still does not make much sens to me is that fact it only happens after 10+ minutes of lapping

 

[Rocksandblues]

That's what I did 2 weeks ago, we'll see if it's better on my next track day in 2 weeks. What still does not make much sens to me is that fact it only happens after 10+ minutes of lapping

Sounds weird- but if it happens again drive and brake harder. Try 2-3 laps of overdriving- if you can safely

 

[Rob_SER]

Would you recommend after a few laps of overdriving to take a few laps of cool down with no braking (like most bedding procedures recommend)?

I realise I sound like a newbie, but I really am not haha. I have ran Hawk DTC30, Hawk HP+, Pagid RSL-29, PFC-11, PFC-08, PowerStop Track Day Spec on all kind of different cars for over 15 years and never encountered that kind of issue, so I'm literally mind blown.

I've had pad deposits before when using inproper track pads, but that's not the case here....

 

[razorlab]

Would you recommend after a few laps of overdriving to take a few laps of cool down with no braking (like most bedding procedures recommend)?

I realise I sound like a newbie, but I really am not haha. I have ran Hawk DTC30, Hawk HP+, Pagid RSL-29, PFC-11, PFC-08, PowerStop Track Day Spec on all kind of different cars for over 15 years and never encountered that kind of issue, so I'm literally mind blown.

I've had pad deposits before when using inproper track pads, but that's not the case here....

I've found the PMU to be really sensitive to other pad deposits. On fresh rotors, they bed in easily, with other pads on the rotors before, it takes a bit more effort.

 

[Rob_SER]

I've found the PMU to be really sensitive to other pad deposits. On fresh rotors, they bed in easily, with other pads on the rotors before, it takes a bit more effort.

I'll give them another track day to see if that clears up, if not I'll try new cheap steel rotors to see if that works out.

 

[kyle9]

Would you recommend after a few laps of overdriving to take a few laps of cool down with no braking (like most bedding procedures recommend)?

I realise I sound like a newbie, but I really am not haha. I have ran Hawk DTC30, Hawk HP+, Pagid RSL-29, PFC-11, PFC-08, PowerStop Track Day Spec on all kind of different cars for over 15 years and never encountered that kind of issue, so I'm literally mind blown.

I've had pad deposits before when using inproper track pads, but that's not the case here....

I know you're pretty experienced but my 0.02 would be to bed them aggressively on the outlap (ideally tell the guy behind what you're doing so he doesn't ride your bumper) and then cruise through the first lap, coast through the pits, and then do an easy outlap and send it.

Then just ignore vibrations until they go away. Eventually they will

 

[Rob_SER]

Thanks for the advice, taking all of them into consideration

 

[i3igpete]

transf was actual transmission temp when I ran a JB4 a few years ago. Maybe it's changed in a later firmware?

thinking back. I was using the auto-log (rather than always on logging) and it's possible those drops were when I got stuck behind a slowpoke that wouldn't point by (and so i took a forced cooldown lap)

 

[tomfree]

Picked up a 24mm Whiteline front sway bar. Do you have to use the adjustable links or stock links are OK?

I have a big AFE Control front sway bar with stock end links. I have it set on the middle hole, and it's fine. I'm replacing the end links with adjustables so I can move it around to the other settings without binding. Honestly, I haven't even tried the other holes on the sway bar to see if the stockers would bind...I just replacing as a precaution.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I'll give them another track day to see if that clears up, if not I'll try new cheap steel rotors to see if that works out.

This happened to me as well, just like Bryan said. I used a different pad/brand on old rotors that had another pad's transfer film on them. The shudder got better over time. But I finally said fcuk it & got new pads and rotors. My previous track cars were lighter. It didn't feel as aggressive (violent lol) to bed them in. Luckily the rotors are cheaper than the pads are for our cars. So, I just buy those now when it's time to change. And can easily do it now at the track.

 

[tomfree]

thinking back. I was using the auto-log (rather than always on logging) and it's possible those drops were when I got stuck behind a slowpoke that wouldn't point by (and so i took a forced cooldown lap)

I've found the PMU to be really sensitive to other pad deposits. On fresh rotors, they bed in easily, with other pads on the rotors before, it takes a bit more effort.

One of the old rules of thumb with pad deposits is to grab a set of most any Hawk race pads and use them for a session or two to essentially resurface the rotor. Then bed in the new pads as if the rotors were brand new. It's kind of an expensive way to operate, but I've done that with DTC-60s on another car (e36) and it did the trick - no more pad vibrations.

 

[AHP]

Day 1 of 2 at CMP in the books. I'll post more details after tomorrow but a few thoughts and a question/issue..

First, the suspension changes made in '23+ are a massive improvement, IMO. The car is wayyyy more settled --especially over curbing-- and confidence inspiring. The front and rear work together better and it feels more balanced/connected. Overall it feels much easier to drive than my '21 did.

I ran in Sport (one press) traction mode all day just to get acclimated and see how it behaves since that's the way my wife will be driving it. TC feels much more aggressive on the intervention and lets you over-drive a LOT and it will reign you in mitigating almost all oversteer. Good and bad...

PSS are fine for like 3 laps and then its greasy understeer city. They don't recover any grip whatsoever after a cool down lap. No surprise.

OEM pads worked surprisingly well but they wore a LOT. I'll be lucky to get 5 more sessions out of them tomorrow. I'm used to high mu race pads on my C7Z Essex AP kit so it took some adjusting getting a feel for and confidence in the brakes. CMP is torture on brakes and they hung in just fine. I regret not running them on my '21 (but now I have a spare set!).

Fuel starve is definitely still a thing. I got 1 and 2/3 sessions out of a full tank before I hit fuel starve at about 1/2 tank indicated and it blew what would have been a PB for the day.


So my only real issue is exiting Turn 14 I really need to drop into 2nd gear. It absolutely would NOT let me downshift into 2nd. No grinding, just a wall. I tried several times in differing techniques and at pace it absolutely refused. I've done some pretty aggressive downshifts to 2nd on the street and never had an issue, but I can't really simulate that aggressive corner entry on the street. It's almost as if there's a safety preventing it if you have steering angle. Any MT guys experience 2nd gear downshift lockout?

So following up on this. Day 2, first morning session it was 78° and I made my way through traffic and got a decent flyer in on lap 7. I was on my way to a predicted 1:44.2 - which realistically would have been a 44.5ish - but I gave the point by to a GT3RS that was suddenly on my ass and ended up with a 1:45.5, which was my quickest lap of the weekend.







Lap 10 of the same session I got a clean flyer and managed a 1:46.0. Worth nothing I was on the way to another 45.5 until the back half of the track and it all fell apart due to the tires practically dripping and me getting greedy trying to hold on to it, which only made it worse. C'est la vie... Beyond the first 4-5 laps the OEM PSS are worthless, which again is not a surprise.








It was 90° the rest of the day so was stuck in the mid/upper 46s. Overall I am super stoked considering the car is 100% stock aside from an alignment and it was stank hot. The best I ran in my '21 in excellent weather on RE71RS and a downpipe was 1:43.7 but I've also progressed a lot as a driver since then. Better weather and just tires and I think 42s are possible.

RE: OEM brake pads -- the last 2 sessions of the day I purposely went HARD on the brakes and they never gave up. I haven't pulled them off yet, but visually it looks like I used up 2/3 of the pads in 8x 20 min sessions. I skipped the 5th session both days due to the heat - was no point and further beating the tires and brakes.

I was also never able to downshift into 2nd at T14 no matter what I tried. That is easily costing .2-.3 and super frustrating. Aside from that the car was flawless.

 

[kungfujedis]

Has anyone here tried transporting a set of wheels on the roof with something like the seasucker roof rack?

 

[Rensuhlo]

Has anyone here tried transporting a set of wheels on the roof with something like the seasucker roof rack?

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/track-tires-transport.14125/



@Traxion had an interesting setup

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