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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

Exotic Papa

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They’re not really really necessary. But are helpful for getting better geometry and articulation.

The rear traction links will help get rid of variable toe changes, wheel hop, stability when cornering, and traction under acceleration. The OEM ones flex more. Especially under hard braking in turn 17. Some people claim better weight transfer, anti-squat as well. But I didn’t really notice it and I’m running stock power.
Front tie rods will definitely improve bump steer correction. Needed for a really good, more precise, alignment imo. If you have sway bars it can help remove preload as well.

Hate to say it but since you’ve gone this far, I’d do it. After all, I did ?. You have really good lap times. You can always do a before and after lap timing test for all of us and give us the verdict ?


Great points!!!!! I bet you’re right on many of those accounts. I could feel she was a bit off before that bolt snapped/broke off. To make matters worse, I haven’t kept a log of which tires I’ve rotated, swapped out and the time spent on track vs town. Even though my in town driving is minimal, you’re absolutely right. I’ll start doing exactly that next season and start on fresh tires. Thanks Mark (great name btw)!
Will do! Thanks again Mark!
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razorlab

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Tried out the Vitour P1's last week on track that have a bunch of hype surrounding them.

295/30/18 on 18x11

Two days at Lime Rock Park. 1st session was cool, about low 50F ambient and holy crap are these things hockey pucks when not scrubbed in and zero heat in them. I've actually never experienced a 200tw that are like this. I ended up going four wheels off on the fourth lap from terminal understeer, then snap oversteer. I wasn't even driving the car hard yet.

Second session I was able to get within .10 of my PB that was done on RE71RS. Here is a video of that lap:



However... after that lap, and every session after that the tires were consistently 1 sec slower no matter what pressures I used and how I drove the car. The second day, even after rotating the tires, it was the same story, however I drove the car in anger during the last session because I was pissed the tires got so slow and while I was still not close to my PB I was able to get within about .50 of my PB, but I had to really overdrive the car and work for it. I could also tell the tires weren't happy being driven like that, and they were VERY vocal about it.

Overall, not very impressed, especially given their quick falloff. They also seem to not like multi-tasking at all. RE71RS are MUCH better at that. I'll be going back to RE71RS after these.

Here is Vitour P1 wear after the first day and approx 55 laps. Keep in mind Lime Rock is 95% right turns so the drivers front tire gets a beating. I'll take photos of the wear after two days sometime this week.

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Rmak

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Tried out the Vitour P1's last week on track that have a bunch of hype surrounding them.

295/30/18 on 18x11

Two days at Lime Rock Park. 1st session was cool, about low 50F ambient and holy crap are these things hockey pucks when not scrubbed in and zero heat in them. I've actually never experienced a 200tw that are like this. I ended up going four wheels off on the fourth lap from terminal understeer, then snap oversteer. I wasn't even driving the car hard yet.

Second session I was able to get within .10 of my PB that was done on RE71RS. Here is a video of that lap:



However... after that lap, and every session after that the tires were consistently 1 sec slower no matter what pressures I used and how I drove the car. The second day, even after rotating the tires, it was the same story, however I drove the car in anger during the last session because I was pissed the tires got so slow and while I was still not close to my PB I was able to get within about .50 of my PB, but I had to really overdrive the car and work for it. I could also tell the tires weren't happy being driven like that, and they were VERY vocal about it.

Overall, not very impressed, especially given their quick falloff. They also seem to not like multi-tasking at all. RE71RS are MUCH better at that. I'll be going back to RE71RS after these.

Here is Vitour P1 wear after the first day and approx 55 laps. Keep in mind Lime Rock is 95% right turns so the drivers front tire gets a beating. I'll take photos of the wear after two days sometime this week.

IMG_5189.jpeg
IMG_5194.jpeg
IMG_5195.jpeg
IMG_5196.jpeg
IMG_5197.jpeg
IMG_5198.jpeg
Great review thanks for posting that. I've heard similar things. Maybe in the same group as Hoosier Track Attack for most over-hyped tires?
 

razorlab

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Great review thanks for posting that. I've heard similar things. Maybe in the same group as Hoosier Track Attack for most over-hyped tires?
With the hype that Dallas and others have been creating on the Vitour FB group I half expected these to drop my lap times by 10 secs and last for two years. Neither of which came true, in fact they reminded me more of v730's (but with a bit more pace) that are about $700 less.

The one thing I did really like about them are the stiff sidewalls. Great steering response.
 

Gabe

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Asking something basic:

We all say: we don’t need no stinking pad sensors, “we will know when to change the brake pads”

Do pads have an objective measure to be changed?
 

Rocksandblues

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Asking something basic:

We all say: we don’t need no stinking pad sensors, “we will know when to change the brake pads”

Do pads have an objective measure to be changed?

I’d answer but it is not my thread
 

Traxion

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Do pads have an objective measure to be changed?
You'll get a feel for how long a pad will last. For example I need more than 50% to finish a weekend at CMP with club racers. Could always bring a spare set of pads and change them at the track if necessary.
 

Exotic Papa

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Hey all, I recently bought the Triple 7 carbon fiber hood vent and noticed that some forum members have chosen different placement locations for theirs. Is the positioning primarily based on personal preference, or are there functional considerations to keep in mind?

Before I proceed with chopping up my hood, I'd appreciate any insights or "lessons learned" from those who have done the install. Specifically, are there instances where you wished you'd chosen a different hood placement for optimal efficiency? Also, is the location recommended in the Triple 7 instructions considered the most effective?
 

licklobster

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Tried out the Vitour P1's last week on track that have a bunch of hype surrounding them.

295/30/18 on 18x11

Two days at Lime Rock Park. 1st session was cool, about low 50F ambient and holy crap are these things hockey pucks when not scrubbed in and zero heat in them. I've actually never experienced a 200tw that are like this. I ended up going four wheels off on the fourth lap from terminal understeer, then snap oversteer. I wasn't even driving the car hard yet.

Second session I was able to get within .10 of my PB that was done on RE71RS. Here is a video of that lap:



However... after that lap, and every session after that the tires were consistently 1 sec slower no matter what pressures I used and how I drove the car. The second day, even after rotating the tires, it was the same story, however I drove the car in anger during the last session because I was pissed the tires got so slow and while I was still not close to my PB I was able to get within about .50 of my PB, but I had to really overdrive the car and work for it. I could also tell the tires weren't happy being driven like that, and they were VERY vocal about it.

Overall, not very impressed, especially given their quick falloff. They also seem to not like multi-tasking at all. RE71RS are MUCH better at that. I'll be going back to RE71RS after these.

Here is Vitour P1 wear after the first day and approx 55 laps. Keep in mind Lime Rock is 95% right turns so the drivers front tire gets a beating. I'll take photos of the wear after two days sometime this week.

IMG_5189.jpeg
IMG_5194.jpeg
IMG_5195.jpeg
IMG_5196.jpeg
IMG_5197.jpeg
IMG_5198.jpeg

If you take them out for another day, dial in ~30% more compression then you do for re-71s and see if you like them more.

Agree the 71s are an easier tire to work with in wider conditions, and on the heat. The vitours need a ton of compression damping to perform well (why? idk. probably the stiff carcasses).
 

FLtrackdays

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Asking something basic:

We all say: we don’t need no stinking pad sensors, “we will know when to change the brake pads”

Do pads have an objective measure to be changed?
Yup. Tie those suckers off via Bob Rock method & visually ? inspect em. I bring a little flashlight to the track to see how much meat ? is left when they’re getting low(er).
 

razorlab

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If you take them out for another day, dial in ~30% more compression then you do for re-71s and see if you like them more.

Agree the 71s are an easier tire to work with in wider conditions, and on the heat. The vitours need a ton of compression damping to perform well (why? idk. probably the stiff carcasses).
I did and they got even worse, especially under braking. The front started skittering around even more under lateral load as well.

The fact they completely changed after one “fast” lap makes me think they are a cheap under developed tire with a very vocal marketing person (Dallas) over inflating their actual performance.
 

tomfree

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Heaven help you if one of the Vitour marketing people gets your name on FB, and you make the mistake of accepting the friend request. Massive marketing blast EVERY DAY. It's not Dallas (I know who he is), but an Asian name. It took me 2 days of annoyance before I hid him. Flooding my feed with blatant marketing stuff makes me expressly NOT want to spend money on Vitours.

Edit...At One Lap, there was a rep from Nexen working the crowd during one of the social events. He had Solomon (guy who now runs OLOA) introduce him to people and was reasonably respectful. From what I could tell from eavesdropping, it looks like they're trying to get into the 200TW market, but I couldn't quite make out if they were going for the fast end (RE71) or the endurance side of the market (RS4).
 

tomfree

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How much life on average have you guys been able to get out of the RE-71RS?
I have a pretty weird use case, and I've been through 3 sets in the last 2 years, so YMMV.

Set 1: 2 HPDE days, 14 3-lap time trials, 3 autox runs, 4K miles of street driving. These were absolutely done and treacherous in the rain

Set #2: 5 HPDE days, 3K miles of street driving. These had about 30% life left on them when I pulled them off the car

Set #3: 14 3-lap time trials, 3 autox runs, 2900 miles of street driving. These are on the car now, I'd say they're about 30% left as well.
 

razorlab

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How much life on average have you guys been able to get out of the RE-71RS?
Going to depend on driver, car setup, tracks, etc.

For me, they drop in pace long before they cord. I get about 4-5 track days out of them (full track days with 40+ laps, not time attack 3 glory laps), before they drop in pace. Usually about 4 solid days at relatively same lap time pace. For just normal lapping days where you don't care about PB's, I can see using them until they cord. They only get slower, they don't drop off a grip cliff and become liabilities like the Nankang CRS can do.

This is usually what mine end up looking like day 4-5 before I replace them:

IMG_3561.jpeg
IMG_3570.jpeg
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