I recommend always loosen fill plug first, just in case over-tightened or cross threaded, you don't want to empty it to find you can't fill it lolI'm going to assume that it's like every other manual transmission:
Loosen drain plug on bottom to empty trans.
Put plug back in.
Open fill plug on side of transmission.
Insert fluid until a thin stream spills out the fill plug opening.
Put plug back in.
Both plugs get 25 ft-lbs of torque.
Fluid is any 75w80 GL-4 trans fluid.
So...I am tracking this car and getting diff oil overheat errors and already doing a diff fluid flush and increasing the weight to 140. Would going for a higher weight oil help the manual tranny as well?I'm going to assume that it's like every other manual transmission:
Loosen drain plug on bottom to empty trans.
Put plug back in.
Open fill plug on side of transmission.
Insert fluid until a thin stream spills out the fill plug opening.
Put plug back in.
Both plugs get 25 ft-lbs of torque.
Fluid is any 75w80 GL-4 trans fluid.
That was very thorough, thank you.GL-4 and GL-5 fluid are not interoperable. These are for different kinds of gears. All transmission oil is a gear oil, but not all gear oil is a transmission fluid.
GL-4 oil has a relatively mild amount of extreme pressure (EP) additives that protect the gear metallurgy and geometry under the high pressure of engagement. This oil is typically indicated for MT gearboxes and moderate load hypoid geartrains (e.g. passenger vehicle differential ring and pinion). Basically spur and helical gears.
GL-5 oil has a significantly higher quantity of EP additives. This oil is typically indicated for more severe hypoid gear trains, such as axles. The pressure loads of axle operation are much higher. Transfer cases also commonly get GL-5.
Don't take this as gospel, however, because there are some differentials that call for GL-5 and some axles that are fine with GL-4. It depends on the exact design of the gears, the metallurgy, and the intended use case.
You can certainly step up the oil weight for the transmission. However, increasing fluid viscosity can actually increase heat for friction reasons. It would be best to plumb a sensor into the fill or drain plugs and get a real read before deciding. As for the diff, you may consider plumbing an external pump+cooler setup triggered by a thermostat+relay setup.
edit: yes, nerds, I know R&P gears are hypoid.
75-90 for the trans. 75-140 for the diff. I wouldnāt put 140 in the trans, thatās nearly double the viscosity at temp.If you're going with an upgraded clutch, like an fx1000 for example. CES recommended Redline 75-140
start the video at 9:35:75-90 for the trans. 75-140 for the diff. I wouldnāt put 140 in the trans, thatās nearly double the viscosity at temp.
Ok so according to this video and previous conversations I had about the diff, Redline 75-140 GL5 both in transmission and differential?start the video at 9:35:
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdfGL-4 and GL-5 fluid are not interoperable. These are for different kinds of gears. All transmission oil is a gear oil, but not all gear oil is a transmission fluid.
GL-4 oil has a relatively mild amount of extreme pressure (EP) additives that protect the gear metallurgy and geometry under the high pressure of engagement. This oil is typically indicated for MT gearboxes and moderate load hypoid geartrains (e.g. passenger vehicle differential ring and pinion). Basically spur and helical gears.
GL-5 oil has a significantly higher quantity of EP additives. This oil is typically indicated for more severe hypoid gear trains, such as axles. The pressure loads of axle operation are much higher. Transfer cases also commonly get GL-5.
Don't take this as gospel, however, because there are some differentials that call for GL-5 and some axles that are fine with GL-4. It depends on the exact design of the gears, the metallurgy, and the intended use case.
You can certainly step up the oil weight for the transmission. However, increasing fluid viscosity can actually increase heat for friction reasons. It would be best to plumb a sensor into the fill or drain plugs and get a real read before deciding. As for the diff, you may consider plumbing an external pump+cooler setup triggered by a thermostat+relay setup.
edit: yes, nerds, I know R&P gears are hypoid.
When you upgrade the flywheel to a non dual mass, you get chatter at idle when not on the clutch which completely normal. Letās just double the viscosity of your oil just to reduce sound? Makes perfect sense. /sstart the video at 9:35:
They mentioned that it was mainly to reduce vibration.When you upgrade the flywheel to a non dual mass, you get chatter at idle when not on the clutch which completely normal. Letās just double the viscosity of your oil just to reduce sound? Makes perfect sense. /s
Itās honestly not that bad and barley noticeable. Thereās a slight chatter at idle but when you push the clutch in itās no chatter. It drives normal, took me one day to get used to the first gear engagement from the stock clutch but after that itās muscle memory.They mentioned that it was mainly to reduce vibration.
it's @DGINR8supra supra in the video, @DGINR8supra how does it drive and sound?
Did you drive it before they swapped to the redline 75 - 140 fluid on the FX1000?Itās honestly not that bad and barley noticeable. Thereās a slight chatter at idle but when you push the clutch in itās no chatter. It drives normal, took me one day to get used to the first gear engagement from the stock clutch but after that itās muscle memory.