A91-MT CLUTCH GONE💀☠️😵🏴‍☠️🪦

[NocturnalEmber]

Forget removing the restrictor, it has no influence on clutch failure. I've seen the same supposed "solution" of removing the restrictor on other makes and it has no effect other than making the clutch slightly harder to modulate. People remove it looking for a "magic bullet" to absolutely any clutch issue and even clutch "non issues". It's a pity the clowns in the video didn't take the time to sit down at the bench with a good light and a magnifier and try and see what happened to the plate. IE did it shed some lining due to a friction plate rivet failing or had it been chronically slipping and overheated and then failed or had the friction plate failed mechanically initially and then it shed material. Or did they just want to destroy the std clutch so they could fit a new unit they had waiting to go on.

Phil

The people in that channel are shilling subpar content for views. I don't think their audience would care to watch a video that showed a breakdown and failure analysis to determine the real failure point (which was likely abuse). Instead they'd rather just drop the disc on the floor and kick it around. Much better idea </s>

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[Stvee]

Forget removing the restrictor, it has no influence on clutch failure. I've seen the same supposed "solution" of removing the restrictor on other makes and it has no effect other than making the clutch slightly harder to modulate. People remove it looking for a "magic bullet" to absolutely any clutch issue and even clutch "non issues". It's a pity the clowns in the video didn't take the time to sit down at the bench with a good light and a magnifier and try and see what happened to the plate. IE did it shed some lining due to a friction plate rivet failing or had it been chronically slipping and overheated and then failed or had the friction plate failed mechanically initially and then it shed material. Or did they just want to destroy the std clutch so they could fit a new unit they had waiting to go on.

Phil

The delay valve is there to smooth out engagement of the clutch by making it slower and causing more slippage. Under normal circumstances that doesn’t really cause a problem but if you’re going to be doing what that guy is, obviously it will.

Regardless of whatever caused his issues, removing the CDV vastly improves clutch feel and operation. I’ve done it on every BMW I’ve owned.

 

[RenRed2]

I've owned my car for two months now, and it is almost out of the 1,200 mile break in. I've followed that procedure religiously. The car has not seen over 4,500 RPM yet, and it will gradually see higher once it hits 1,200 miles.

People can argue for or against following a break in procedure. My rationale is, I just paid $63,000~ for this car and the engineers put that break in procedure in the manual for a reason. Regardless of if the cars see a dyno as part of final assembly, I'm going to follow the break in procedure for the car the manufacturer recommends.

Following a short break in procedure (be it clutch, engine, etc) is a small price to pay for something I plan on owning indefinitely.

Stop with such logic bro! I watched YouTube total expert last night, and had 8 Monster Recovery drinks. You dont need to break it in. They like seriously do that at the factory the day its built. Just rev and dump that clutch. That breaks in the valves the exhaust and the drive belt. You are so lame with thinking the company knows better LOL

--This above is one of the smarter posts about break in I see here. My approach is always the same.

 

[UYCR]

The slave cylinder and line are not available, as they don't even have a valid part number for them yet, along with many other MT and clutch-related parts. Pretty frustrating, as they started building actual production MT models in July of 2022, and test mules waaayy before that. Let me make a couple phone calls and see where we are in this process...

EDIT: I've got a 'case' started and a fellow Parts Master or engineer is supposed to contact me within the next couple days. Fingers crossed!

Any updates on this? I want to delete my CDV but also want to make sure there's a backup in case I were to mess something up.

Had another buddy, this time stock power, experience some clutch slippage at the final session of an HPDE he was in during the weekend. It was on a straight while in 6th gear to make things even weirder. Everything was fine after it all cooled down but damage has been done regardless.

 

[MisterSkiz]

I've owned my car for two months now, and it is almost out of the 1,200 mile break in. I've followed that procedure religiously. The car has not seen over 4,500 RPM yet, and it will gradually see higher once it hits 1,200 miles.

Your car has seen rpms higher than that I'm sure at the rollers they test at the factory, or the kid who moved it on the boat or off the boat or at the showroom while it was delivered

 

[FuzzyRev]

Any updates on this? I want to delete my CDV but also want to make sure there's a backup in case I were to mess something up.

Had another buddy, this time stock power, experience some clutch slippage at the final session of an HPDE he was in during the weekend. It was on a straight while in 6th gear to make things even weirder. Everything was fine after it all cooled down but damage has been done regardless.

I tagged you in my update post in the "clutch slipping thread" The first pair of these parts in the nation were ordered yesterday, and processing is pending as of this morning.

 

[UYCR]

I tagged you in my update post in the "clutch slipping thread" The first pair of these parts in the nation were ordered yesterday, and processing is pending as of this morning.

Yeah I saw that you were gonna order. I was just curious about the order considering how lacking Toyota has been with the inventory of parts for the manuals. Glad to see that it went through.

 

[Brettandblue]

Hey folks, I.'ll add my 2 cents to this thread. I previously owned a stratosphere blue A91 Supra, purchased directly from Toyota, minus the rapid oil consumption I ran into no problems with that car. I sold that and purchased the A91-MT brand new in burnout clutch white in October (Paying $7k over sticker). My clutch is fried as of 3150 miles. I had no issues prior until a few miles before it became undrivable. I have a detailed description that I will post below. Upon inspection Toyota had noted heat marks on the flywheel as well as finding pieces of disintegrated clutch. I was left on the hook for a $1200 inspection fee and had to ultimately tow the car back to my house. I was quoted roughly $3800 to fix the car and a 6-7 month waiting period for parts. This is unacceptable. I reached out to corporate to either "good will" the parts or buy back the vehicle and both options were rejected. Their stance is that they "believe" the damage is due to abuse. That is not the case, and unfortunately trying to "disprove" abuse is not an easy task. I plan on having the car sent to an independent Toyota approved shop to look into everything more extensively. I am unsure if the car records the driving records like some Porsches, but if it does I'd love to access those records to send to Toyota as well.

Please Note: There has been no track use, no canyoning, no donuts, no burnouts, let alone me even approaching the redline on the car. The car itself is completely stock and has been my daily going to and from the gym/groceries/etc. I have a Lotus Evora GT that I use to let loose on the more "aggressive" style driving. The car was also completely babied beyond the engine/clutch break in period.


This is what I informed Toyota-


"As I drove the car down the road, I couldn't help but notice that something felt off. No matter my gear, it seemed like the clutch would slip if I applied more than 50 percent throttle. This was particularly noticeable when I was driving at highway speeds of around 65 miles per hour, and my RPMs were relatively low. There would also be the occasional smell of a burnt clutch and no indication of driver error while driving, so the smell of clutch would follow a small acceleration and then the clutch would slip indicating there is a clutch issue. Even the slightest amount of throttle that was over the 50 percent mark would cause the clutch to slip, and the car would accelerate at a painfully slow rate, especially given its impressive power-to-weight ratio."




I'm looking to gather and connect with anyone else running into slipping issues/clutch failure. I have numerous friends who are stock MT owners that are experiencing slipping issues, especially in 4th-6th gear. Any guidance is welcomed and I hope that we can squash this issue for everyone's sake. If you are running into these issues please feel free to contact me

[email protected] or DM me.

Thankyou all for your time reading this, hope everyone is having a wonderful spring!

-Brett

 

[UYCR]

It was mentioned in the other thread already, Clutch Masters released their lineup for our cars. Below is the link just in case.

https://clutchmasters.com/search.html?fitment=Toyota|Supra|2023-2023 : 3.0L Turbo 6-speed

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