Burger Tuning BMS Elite BMW/Supra B58TU Charge Pipe Blow-Off Valve (BOV) Kit

[racebuild]

Got this for the novelty of having a blow off, however after 2 weeks this thing is back in a box and gonna sell it.

IAT’s are increased by about 20F due to additional heat soak from the hot charge air bleeding directly in front of the intake manifold.

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[a90fresh]

Got this for the novelty of having a blow off, however after 2 weeks this thing is back in a box and gonna sell it.

IAT’s are increased by about 20F due to additional heat soak from the hot charge air bleeding directly in front of the intake manifold.

You could always use an Intake that has a cold air box e.g. Factory OEM, Eventuri, HKS, MST, Armaspeed, etc. with the lid on.

 

[R8TTEDR]

Got this for the novelty of having a blow off, however after 2 weeks this thing is back in a box and gonna sell it.

IAT’s are increased by about 20F due to additional heat soak from the hot charge air bleeding directly in front of the intake manifold.

That makes no sense at all. You must be the same guy that emailed me and said you felt it in your feet through the firewall.

 

[Thepaulsurfer1]

Got this for the novelty of having a blow off, however after 2 weeks this thing is back in a box and gonna sell it.

IAT’s are increased by about 20F due to additional heat soak from the hot charge air bleeding directly in front of the intake manifold.

This doesn't make sense. I see no significant changes in IAT after installing charge pipe with blow off valve on acn91 or Flex up to e55 during cruising or after pulls logging through ecutek. Seems to be trolling.

 

[racebuild]

That makes no sense at all. You must be the same guy that emailed me and said you felt it in your feet through the firewall.

Of course it makes no sense to the guy who makes it, don’t worry people will still buy it… your hot air intakes are still popular isn’t it?

Now let’s think logically.

At part throttle it’s constantly bleeding off charge air (~240F, over 300F at the track) into the engine bay, tell me where does that heat go? Must be venting out the fake vents we have? Right. So we have additional hot air, but makes no sense.

You could always use an Intake that has a cold air box e.g. Factory OEM, Eventuri, HKS, MST, Armaspeed, etc. with the lid on.

I’m currently on a factory air box. Had an Armaspeed prior, IAT was higher than stock intake.

 

[Bigboss]

Of course it makes no sense to the guy who makes it, don’t worry people will still buy it… your hot air intakes are still popular isn’t it?

Now let’s think logically.

At part throttle it’s constantly bleeding off charge air (~240F, over 300F at the track) into the engine bay, tell me where does that heat go? Must be venting out the fake vents we have? Right. So we have additional hot air, but makes no sense.




I’m currently on a factory air box. Had an Armaspeed prior, IAT was higher than stock intake.

Maybe your just an idiot who installs everything wrong show us datalogs of your claims

 

[zrk]

I'd like to see a log of this 'BOV make IAT's Hotter' because it's patently false, unless installed very incorrectly.

I have hundreds of logs from my car, which has a BOV, and zero IAT effect- because there shouldn't be, because it makes no sense.

 

[racebuild]

Maybe your just an idiot who installs everything wrong show us datalogs of your claims

LOL. That must be it. Don’t you own one of these amazing pipes? If you don’t and would like to purchase one and have first hand experience I have one available.

If you do own one… next time you drive, and the car at temp and heat soaked just like in real world conditions, run a log. Keep start temps with in a few degrees, no glory runs.

 

[R8TTEDR]

Of course it makes no sense to the guy who makes it, don’t worry people will still buy it… your hot air intakes are still popular isn’t it?

Now let’s think logically.

At part throttle it’s constantly bleeding off charge air (~240F, over 300F at the track) into the engine bay, tell me where does that heat go? Must be venting out the fake vents we have? Right. So we have additional hot air, but makes no sense.

Sigh... first of all. Sales or no sales, it doesn't change my salary.

Second, I'm in the R&D department. So everything I work off has to be logical and backed with data to support my "logical claims".
At part throttle when boost is very minimal it's not at 300F like it would be at 20+psi.

Air comes in through the front grills and gets pulled under the car where the airflow has negative pressure. Standard practice in all car manufacturing.

 

[Thepaulsurfer1]

@zrk, you’re a forum god, how can we mute/ban @racebuild? Guy seems like a troll.

 

[Lonestar_Nomad]

At part throttle it’s constantly bleeding off charge air (~240F, over 300F at the track) into the engine bay, tell me where does that heat go? Must be venting out the fake vents we have?

wait till this guy find out theres an actual hot turbo in his engine bay. Guys gonna send the whole ass car back.

 

[racebuild]

@zrk, you’re a forum god, how can we mute/ban @racebuild? Guy seems like a troll.

You would probably say that I’m trolling when I tell you with the factory charge air cooler system my IAT is only 4F degrees over ambient (83F) with engine coolant temps at 209F.

wait till this guy find out theres an actual hot turbo in his engine bay. Guys gonna send the whole ass car back.

A thing called heat management comes into play here.

 

[i3igpete]

Since I'm not exactly sure how the provided tubing likes being Teed into, I replaced this with some thick wall silicone hose to hook up a mechanical boost gauge.

Parts list needed:
4mm ID silicone hose, 10/11mm OD. Reminder that the BOV run itself is 30 inches, but figure about 8 ft to run the hose up to the A pillar

two 1/8" NPT to 3/16" 90 degree barb fitting
one 3/16" barb tee fitting


I used 10/11mm ID spring clips. Your call if you want to use hose clamps. Need 6 clamps if hooking up boost gauge, 2 without.

 

[Amfchang]

Since I'm not exactly sure how the provided tubing likes being Teed into, I replaced this with some thick wall silicone hose to hook up a mechanical boost gauge.

Parts list needed:
4mm ID silicone hose, 10/11mm OD. Reminder that the BOV run itself is 30 inches, but figure about 8 ft to run the hose up to the A pillar

two 1/8" NPT to 3/16" 90 degree barb fitting
one 3/16" barb tee fitting


I used 10/11mm ID spring clips. Your call if you want to use hose clamps. Need 6 clamps if hooking up boost gauge, 2 without.

what I did was get the tee with a female bung 1/8” to run my boost silicone line frommy meth kit with this.

 

[Amfchang]

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