DIY Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Removal

[Spart]

Awesome write up @Stvee!

Got this yesterday, will be installing it next day off.

When you install it, don't pull out the brown plunger on the end. I found some instructions that say to do that, and it's dumb. There's a spring inside that forces it to extend fully (preload on the clutch is my guess) and it's "locked" closed for shipping. Pulling it out will just introduce more air into the system and hydraulic pressure will quickly overcome the locked state once you've got it fully installed. If you accidentally release it prematurely, just push it back in really hard on a workbench and it will stick closed.

Remove the bottom bolt on the original slave installed in the car first, which will also release the bracket for the clutch line. Once that is done, have the new slave ready and disconnect the line from the old slave and immediately connect it to the new slave to keep the clutch master from emptying it's contents via gravity. You could also clamp the rubber line to prevent this as much as possible.

Let that dangle freely out of the way while you work on the top bolt of the original slave. Not having the hose connected makes this a bit easier, there will be continuous pressure on the bolt from the preload spring inside the slave. My bolt had a bit of blue loctite on it as well.

When you reinstall with the new slave in the "locked" position and some of the loctite worn off the bolt, it's not as difficult as it is coming out.

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[Tacoma714]

Awesome write up @Stvee!

Got this yesterday, will be installing it next day off.

I just had my CDV removed recently and I absolutely love the difference without it. Is the E90 or E92 slave cylinder a must have or absolutely necessary?

 

[Spart]

I just had my CDV removed recently and I absolutely love the difference without it. Is the E90 or E92 slave cylinder a must have or absolutely necessary?

Nope, it just gives you the opportunity to delete the CDV without modifying the stock part, and you can go back to stock later.

 

[Tacoma714]

Nope, it just gives you the opportunity to delete the CDV without modifying the stock part, and you can go back to stock later.

Thank you.

 

[AndyK5]

I just did this, all my cover and bracket screws were 10mm, did not need to use 8 or 9. Also used visegrip on the soft clutch line. All I lost was 2-3 drops that popped out of the slave master cylinder that's it.

 

[FlammasWRLD]

I just did this, all my cover and bracket screws were 10mm, did not need to use 8 or 9. Also used visegrip on the soft clutch line. All I lost was 2-3 drops that popped out of the slave master cylinder that's it.

I want to do this as soon as the weather gets a littler warmer here. So far has this been worth it in your opinion?

 

[6mtsoup]

Did the diy method with a buddy, we both noticed the difference immediately. Took the first car about 20 mins to make sure we did it right, took maybe 5-10 mins to do my car after. Super simple, just follow what the post here says. Highly recommend to everyone with a MT, reduces the rev hang and makes all of the other shifts smoother. Majorly noticeable in the 1-2 shift

 

[DC5UPRA]

Did the diy method with a buddy, we both noticed the difference immediately. Took the first car about 20 mins to make sure we did it right, took maybe 5-10 mins to do my car after. Super simple, just follow what the post here says. Highly recommend to everyone with a MT, reduces the rev hang and makes all of the other shifts smoother. Majorly noticeable in the 1-2 shift

Second this. Easy fix, night and day difference.

 

[CafeRacerQueen]

Second this. Easy fix, night and day difference.

third this. Different car for the better afterwards

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

I don't notice the CDV, but I'm also still in the break in period and haven't revved past 4k nor given it more than 50% throttle. Does it become more noticeable with higher revs and more throttle?

 

[6mtsoup]

I don't notice the CDV, but I'm also still in the break in period and haven't revved past 4k nor given it more than 50% throttle. Does it become more noticeable with higher revs and more throttle?

More noticeable when you are slamming gears. You should be able to notice it on the 1-2 no matter what though

 

[MSport]

Now I have the courage thank you for the write up

 

[lucky phil]

Did the diy method with a buddy, we both noticed the difference immediately. Took the first car about 20 mins to make sure we did it right, took maybe 5-10 mins to do my car after. Super simple, just follow what the post here says. Highly recommend to everyone with a MT, reduces the rev hang and makes all of the other shifts smoother. Majorly noticeable in the 1-2 shift

How's it do that.

Phil

 

[6mtsoup]

How's it do that.

Phil

Removing the CDV lets the clutch fluid flow without restriction, hence ‘delay valve’. It’s just most noticeable in the 1-2 shift that every MT owner complains about

 

[lucky phil]

Removing the CDV lets the clutch fluid flow without restriction, hence ‘delay valve’. It’s just most noticeable in the 1-2 shift that every MT owner complains about

The CDV has nothing to do with "rev hang" which was my question. My manual clutch and gearbox works perfectly. Both are way better than a Tremec T-56 behind a Chev LS engine ah la Pontiac GTO and better than both my Focus Rs's. So far It's the sweetest 6 speed manual/clutch combination I've ever used. So I guess not "every" MT owner is complaining

Phil

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