Easier way to mount seasonal tires

darkknight302

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It's almost that time again. I had a hard time lining up the holes on the swapping of A/S to summer tires. Anyone have a easier way to mount the tires without having to look for where the screw hole is?
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Evolution

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Pretty sure converting to studs would be the best way around all that. They don't cost much....
 

suicidaleggroll

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Pretty sure converting to studs would be the best way around all that. They don't cost much....
True, but studs arenā€™t a one and done solution. Theyā€™re a wear item and should be replaced periodically, especially if you track the car.
 

Evolution

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True, but studs arenā€™t a one and done solution. Theyā€™re a wear item and should be replaced periodically, especially if you track the car.
I mean I guess you could call them a wear item. If that is the case then so are the factory bolt things. Shouldn't even be using the factory bolts if you are tracking the car and even worse if you are running spacers (with longer aftermarket cheap China bolts). Studs are stronger and don't wear the threads in the hub every time you have to take a wheel off.
 

FLtrackdays

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zrk

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True, but studs arenā€™t a one and done solution. Theyā€™re a wear item and should be replaced periodically, especially if you track the car.
I mean I guess you could call them a wear item. If that is the case then so are the factory bolt things. Shouldn't even be using the factory bolts if you are tracking the car and even worse if you are running spacers (with longer aftermarket cheap China bolts). Studs are stronger and don't wear the threads in the hub every time you have to take a wheel off.
FCP Euro. Unreal replacement/return policy. You can change em every season for shipping cost only.
 

suicidaleggroll

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I mean I guess you could call them a wear item. If that is the case then so are the factory bolt things.
Kind of, but with a couple significant differences.
  • When the wheel bolts start to stretch, they wonā€™t thread into the hub properly and can be replaced. When wheel studs start to stretch, you have no idea until they shear.
  • If a wheel bolt does shear in the hub, itā€™s much easier to replace than a locktighted stud.
Stud conversions are weaker than factory press-fit studs, I think a lot of people have experience with factory press in studs and assume stud conversions will be the same, but theyā€™re not. Stud conversions are smaller diameter at the hub end than press-ins, and thatā€™s where they shear nearly every time. Manufacturers of stud conversion kits typically recommend replacing them every 2-3 years for street driven cars, every year if it sees the track. The Supra is too new to have good statistics on this, but just head over to your favorite BMW forum to see what they go through.

Iā€™m not saying you shouldnā€™t do it or itā€™s not worth it, itā€™s just something to keep in mind.
 

PikkaGTR

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Kind of, but with a couple significant differences.
  • When the wheel bolts start to stretch, they wonā€™t thread into the hub properly and can be replaced. When wheel studs start to stretch, you have no idea until they shear.
  • If a wheel bolt does shear in the hub, itā€™s much easier to replace than a locktighted stud.
Stud conversions are weaker than factory press-fit studs, I think a lot of people have experience with factory press in studs and assume stud conversions will be the same, but theyā€™re not. Stud conversions are smaller diameter at the hub end than press-ins, and thatā€™s where they shear nearly every time. Manufacturers of stud conversion kits typically recommend replacing them every 2-3 years for street driven cars, every year if it sees the track. The Supra is too new to have good statistics on this, but just head over to your favorite BMW forum to see what they go through.

Iā€™m not saying you shouldnā€™t do it or itā€™s not worth it, itā€™s just something to keep in mind.
Studs are a wear item
I see them the same way I see oil filters
They're not expensive, but if they go wrong then it CAN get expensive
So a few bucks for new studs every 2 years is a worth while spend for ease of mounting wheels
If you take advantage of FCP Euro return policy, then it's even cheaper
 

nibble

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yep. wheel hanger is best way to go if stud kit is not an option.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Wheel-Hanger-Alignment-Guide/dp/B07SFZ6YJL/ref=sr_1_5?crid=37UVQEQLHT4R6&keywords=bmw+wheel+hanger&qid=1666193590&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjg5IiwicXNhIjoiMy4zNSIsInFzcCI6IjIuODUifQ==&sprefix=bmw+wheel+hanger,aps,91&sr=8-5&th=1

not sure which one is right size.. i forget these things.. :p but I believe M14x1.25 is correct. search before ordering it.

following is what I did before I have stud kit. (after jacking up the car)

1. rotate the wheel so that one of lug bolt will be at the top.
2. take that top bolt out and screw in wheel hanger. this way, when taking the wheel out, wheel will not hit the brake caliper to damage paint or damage wheel.
3. take rest of the bolt out and wheel off.

to put it back,

1. make sure wheel hanger is on the top.
2. align it and put the wheel on.
3. hand tight other lug bolts (4) and then tighten with tool using star pattern stating from across where wheel hanger is. this should let the wheel sit on center.
4. take the hanger out and screw in last lug bolt.
5. lower the car and torque to the spec.

as for stud kit, this is what I use.

https://www.apexraceparts.com/store...x-m14x1-25mm-a90-gr-supra-5-lug-stud-kit.html

on the topic of wearable item - although a bit off topic, stud kit and bolts both are wearable because it stretches with torque, and expands with heat as well as shrinks when it become cold. although it does it infinitesimally, unnoticeable by eye, over time it will fail. there are pros and cons to both. Stud kit definitely has advantage on "on & off" but bolt has advantage on replacing it. on esthetic, it is subjective but I like the look on stud kit.
 
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