How to not spin in first/second under WOT?

raiu

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Hello,

I noticed that even stock power supras don't like traction in low gears. I'm wondering if there's a way to solve that -- would getting 305 tires help? I heard some still spin on 305 on a launch.

Would upgrading to a street radial help with that? I'd like to know your opinions
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NitroYellowMKV

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On stock power level and rims throw something sticky like a 295 Street radial with some heat in it and it will get you a lot more grip in 1st/2nd just be careful, go with more power and sticky enough tires and you can break axles and drive shafts.
 

zrk

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Never launch in first, make sure the tires are hot. Get good tires. Make sure you have the tire pressure correct.

0. Sport Mode
1. Tap Traction Control - (turn off traction)
2. Hold Traction Control - (turn off VSC)
3. Switch to manual mode
4. Burnout in First gear in the water box
5. Approach staging lights
6. Shift to 2nd
7. Attempt to push the brake pedal through the floor with your LEFT foot
7a. Pump Brake Pedal HARD
8. While holding the brake pedal down, bring RPMs up to ~2k RPMs quickly (you'll feel the car "squat"), this is the torque converter loading. Boost will climb.
9. On Green - Mash gas & release brake
10. Shift when you see the indicator reach 55-5600 RPMs (stock turbo)
10a. Don't shift out of 5th, ride it through.

Pushing much harder than 2200 RPMs loading up the converter is a sure-fire way to snap an axle after a couple of passes, and it's 3-4 months for a DSS axle. Careful.
 

XtremeMaC

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If you're tuneable you can reduce boost by gear.. Many tuning platforms support this.. if that's what you want to achieve..
If you want to launch properly, yeah memorize the steps above 😁
 

muchbread

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Never launch in first, make sure the tires are hot. Get good tires. Make sure you have the tire pressure correct.

0. Sport Mode
1. Tap Traction Control - (turn off traction)
2. Hold Traction Control - (turn off VSC)
3. Switch to manual mode
4. Burnout in First gear in the water box
5. Approach staging lights
6. Shift to 2nd
7. Attempt to push the brake pedal through the floor with your LEFT foot
7a. Pump Brake Pedal HARD
8. While holding the brake pedal down, bring RPMs up to ~2k RPMs quickly (you'll feel the car "squat"), this is the torque converter loading. Boost will climb.
9. On Green - Mash gas & release brake
10. Shift when you see the indicator reach 55-5600 RPMs (stock turbo)
10a. Don't shift out of 5th, ride it through.

Pushing much harder than 2200 RPMs loading up the converter is a sure-fire way to snap an axle after a couple of passes, and it's 3-4 months for a DSS axle. Careful.
this did wonders for me especially in my 60ft
 
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Xproplayer

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Never launch in first, make sure the tires are hot. Get good tires. Make sure you have the tire pressure correct.

0. Sport Mode
1. Tap Traction Control - (turn off traction)
2. Hold Traction Control - (turn off VSC)
3. Switch to manual mode
4. Burnout in First gear in the water box
5. Approach staging lights
6. Shift to 2nd
7. Attempt to push the brake pedal through the floor with your LEFT foot
7a. Pump Brake Pedal HARD
8. While holding the brake pedal down, bring RPMs up to ~2k RPMs quickly (you'll feel the car "squat"), this is the torque converter loading. Boost will climb.
9. On Green - Mash gas & release brake
10. Shift when you see the indicator reach 55-5600 RPMs (stock turbo)
10a. Don't shift out of 5th, ride it through.

Pushing much harder than 2200 RPMs loading up the converter is a sure-fire way to snap an axle after a couple of passes, and it's 3-4 months for a DSS axle. Careful.
What's the street version of this? There's a traffic light gating an onramp near me and I find that boost kicks in and that breaks traction. But this is a street "launch", I don't want to hold the brakes (unless this is the key I need, but just do it softer than the drag method?) or use oem launch control and ideally use traction mode instead of vsc off? yes I'm spoiled and a jackass sometimes
 

zrk

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What's the street version of this? There's a traffic light gating an onramp near me and I find that boost kicks in and that breaks traction. But this is a street "launch", I don't want to hold the brakes (unless this is the key I need, but just do it softer than the drag method?) or use oem launch control and ideally use traction mode instead of vsc off? yes I'm spoiled and a jackass sometimes
same thing basically. You need to brake boost this car. If you leave on no boost, you're gonna be slow no matter what.
 

Evolution

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Ya 1st gear is worthless on the streets regardless of tires or power. 2nd gear makes things much more manageable. On colder days, even with sticky 315s, 3rd gear can be hard to control (even at my lower power level). Got to warm them tires up first!
 

zrk

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Width doesn't matter. Sidewall does the tires need to flex not touch the ground more. Your contact patch is nearly the same. (I mean, it does matter, but 285 v 315 don't matter from a dig).
 

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What's the street version of this? There's a traffic light gating an onramp near me and I find that boost kicks in and that breaks traction. But this is a street "launch", I don't want to hold the brakes (unless this is the key I need, but just do it softer than the drag method?) or use oem launch control and ideally use traction mode instead of vsc off? yes I'm spoiled and a jackass sometimes
Is there a street manual version of this? 😇
 

Evolution

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Width doesn't matter. Sidewall does the tires need to flex not touch the ground more. Your contact patch is nearly the same. (I mean, it does matter, but 285 v 315 don't matter from a dig).
I have not run those flexy sidewall tires in years, like in over 15 years. 200tw tires are completely different and size does matter. Haha. Heat matters even more though, on both tire types.
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