Improving reliability on a tuned setup

[kashuab]

I'll shortly be running with the following stage 1:

- Armaspeed cold air intake (installed)
- FTP chargepipe (installed)
- Active Autowerke catted downpipe (arriving today)
- JB4 running either map 1, 2, or a custom 6 (ordered, arriving next week)

As a result of pushing the engine harder, it will naturally be more likely to incur more wear. What can I do aside from changing oil more frequently than OEM suggests? Cooling seems to be an interesting topic, an upgraded heat exchanger seems ideal to prevent pre-ignition. Though I've seen others talking about how the heat exchanger in particular isn't the limiting factor in regards to the Supra's cooling.

Would love to hear your guys' ideas!

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[ColonelAdama]

The need for a heat exchanger is pretty much dependent on the power you make. With just a JB4 for a tune, I can't imagine you'll need a new manifold. Oil every 5k and do some datalogging on your JB4 when you get it to make sure you aren't pulling timing in super-hot conditions.

 

[SupraTR]

I don't know that there are any great responses for this question, particularly being pretty early in the life of this car and therefore not having a large dataset related to what fails in various tuned applications. I think to cover your bases though:
- Use high quality oils, change more frequently than necessary.
- If you're tune is "safe" at say 500whp...build in some conservatism, for example you could dial it back to 470whp in whatever manner will deliver the "safest" combustion.
- Upgrades to cooling components such as manifolds/heat exchanger shouldn't hurt, but whether they actually are necessary comes to application.
- Running methanol to cool the intake charge (not for the purpose of tuning in more power) should be beneficial, but that adds a potential system that can also fail.
- Various components such as axles are known common failure points but typically only in higher hp applications and launches. So could preemptively upgrade.

All in all I don't think there is really anything special to point to for improving reliability if your car will be primarily street driven. Most of all it's going to come down to your tune, your right foot, and luck or lack thereof.

 

[razorlab]

Both of you guys didn't notice this is in the B48 section and the OP has a 2.0

With those mods, just keep on top of maintenance and use a quality oil.

 

[kashuab]

Thanks for your replies guys. Yeah I'm running the 2.0, I imagine after everything's all said and done my naive guess would be in the realm of ~310hp, over the 255hp stock rating on JB4 Map 2. Not sure what a custom map could net me (@Jesse DaBears ?) Think my engine mods will stop here.

With those mods, just keep on top of maintenance and use a quality oil.

Any recommendations on what oil to use?

 

[kashuab]

I do wonder if an upgraded heat exchanger would be ideal for a track application. But outside the track could it make things too cool?

 

[Thraxbert]

Cold coolant and hot oil = happy car.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

I do wonder if an upgraded heat exchanger would be ideal for a track application. But outside the track could it make things too cool?

No. The coldest it could drop the IAT to is ambient, which is ideal.

 

[razorlab]

heat exchanger doesn't do much without an upgraded manifold on the 3.0

Pretty sure that doesn't exist for the B48 yet.

 

[Rta95]

I have done any of those mods yet but plan to. So I assume one thing I'll want to upgrade too at some point are the spark plugs and put in better ones.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

heat exchanger doesn't do much without an upgraded manifold on the 3.0

Pretty sure that doesn't exist for the B48 yet.

It doesn't do much even with an upgraded manifold on the 3.0. I see around 5F lower temps while cruising with the CSF heat exchanger, no real difference during pulls, no difference in how long it takes to cool back down after a pull, it just settles down a bit lower. Not sure what it would look like on a track, but the difference is pretty minimal on the street.

 

[razorlab]

It doesn't do much even with an upgraded manifold on the 3.0. I see around 5F lower temps while cruising with the CSF heat exchanger, no real difference during pulls, no difference in how long it takes to cool back down after a pull, it just settles down a bit lower. Not sure what it would look like on a track, but the difference is pretty minimal on the street.

Well that is mainly because the CSF isn't an actual upgrade. Hard to beat the OEM.

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