Installed Eibach Z4 3.0 lower springs .8” drop

[mdpalmer]

Right, the ride quality is totally subjective I think I am somewhat desensitized to it since I'm used to rough riding cars... And if you head to the track just feel it out you may not rub at all if you don't really push it or if the track itself doesn't have corners that would put heavy compression on the suspension. Later this year I plan try it out myself. I have not had my car for very long I almost bought the springs and spacers before I bought the car I despise wheel gap.

This looks fantastic and is exactly the look I'm going for - helps to see these on the same color! Have been leaning this way all along, but planning to do some minor tracking (doubt it will be more than 2-4 times per year and if more I'm sure I'll just swap over to coilovers) and then some recent posts that these are "much stiffer" has had be a little nervous. Doesn't sound to be the case from your experience so far (in terms of drivability/stiffness).

Now to see if I make it to a month of ownership before ordering these or not. My guess is I won't.

I asked the shop to do it, they forgot and then told me they don't have to, and then I insisted they do it, so they claim they did it. I asked them to give me the bits they cut off and apperently they forgot to keep them. So I have not visually confirmed it. Car rides totally fine so far but I have not hit any big bumps or ridden on roads that would work the suspension through full range. I think it is probably a good idea to trim them at least as much as the car is lowered. Assuming the springs are as stiff or stiffer than OEM that should maintain OEM shock travel. But I'm no suspension expert.

Although, FWIW, I have ridden in a lowered car (not a supra) that did not correctly modify (trim) the bumps tops on spring install and it rode like total garbage over bumpy roads, you could literally feel the shocks running out of travel, the car felt like it was crashing over the bumps if that makes any sense. Owner cut the bump stops and car felt almost like stock over that same road.

If you want to play it safe don't trim them and try it out. Or trim them and if for whatever reason you feel weird about it, order some new OEM ones and put them back in.

did you cut the bump stops ?? Getting conflicted answers by people who installed these springs

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[BA9092]

I trimmed the OEM bumpstops when I installed the Euro/Z4 Eibachs.

I didn't notice any immediate difference in ride quality between stock and these. A week later, I forgot they were even replaced.

 

[SupraTR]

Right, the ride quality is totally subjective I think I am somewhat desensitized to it since I'm used to rough riding cars... And if you head to the track just feel it out you may not rub at all if you don't really push it or if the track itself doesn't have corners that would put heavy compression on the suspension. Later this year I plan try it out myself. I have not had my car for very long I almost bought the springs and spacers before I bought the car I despise wheel gap.

Good enough for me I just ordered the springs ha. I did in fact buy spacers before I had the car so we're on the same page there. Good point on the track - pretty certain when I go at least initially I will not be anywhere near the limits.

 

[REDLINE]

Yup. If anything they probably felt softer (in normal mode). They definitely didn’t feel stiffer than stock though, that’s for sure. If they were, I would have heard it from the wife.

 

[Knoxengineering]

Had these springs installed with 10mm front and 13mm rear spacers. Exactly the look I'm going for thanks to the OP for the tips!

Have about 50 miles on them, no alignment yet, car tracks super straight so far, feels pretty much stock. Front wheel camber looks a little more negative than I remember stock.

I can't feel the difference in everyday driving. I can imagine how the tires would rub the wheel wells under hard compression at the track or in corners, the springs do not feel that much stiffer if at all. Sure looks nice though! About a 1.75-2 finger gap front and rear, I definitely would not want the front too much lower for street driving.

That looks clean Mike! Nicely done.

And now I have more suspension work in my future... thank you.

Brandon K

 

[kappa_md]

If you’re going to use the Eibach USA springs in your GR Supra Manual, advertised drop will be different and modest compared to the Automatic.

GR Supra Automatic : 1.7” front & 1.2” rear
GR Supra Manual : 0.9” front & 0.8” rear

 

[tub54500]

If you’re going to use the Eibach USA springs in your GR Supra Manual, advertised drop will be different and modest compared to the Automatic.

GR Supra Automatic : 1.7” front & 1.2” rear
GR Supra Manual : 0.9” front & 0.8” rear

What about the eibach euro spec ? Anyone used this in a manual yet?

 

[mdpalmer]

What about the eibach euro spec ? Anyone used this in a manual yet?

I just had them installed them in my MT, I posted some pics. Here's a couple more and keep in mind its a fresh install without alignment so car may settle a bit over time.

Continuing the bumpstop trimming discussion:

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/modp-1104-the-bump-stops-here/

Here's a snippet:

When I asked Peter about trimming the OEM bumpstops as part of installing aftermarket shocks and lowering springs, here’s what he had to say on the subject: Many aftermarket spring kits and some coilovers require the OEM bumpstop top be used. If the car is lowered significantly, the bumpstops may be in contact all the time. This is likely to make the car understeer a lot and also ride really hard. It is sometimes recommended to shorten them to give some clearance. There are a few things to be aware of doing this. There will be less material, so when it is fully compressed it will be shorter than it was designed to be. The wheel will travel further into jounce or compression, which may cause tire clearance issues. Joints will be asked to go through a larger arc and may neck out. The bumpstops are usually tapered with a very soft nose’ on them. This means when they first make contact you hardly feel them and loads increase gently. If the nose is cut off, they can come in hard with a much stiffer rate. You can feel it and it may affect the handling, especially hitting a bump in a turn. If at all possible, reduce the length from the other end. That may not be possible if it locates on the top mount or grips on the damper shaft with a smaller inner diameter. In that case, cutting off the nose is the only real option, but the initial rate could be softened by drilling a series of holes around the diameter to allow part of it to collapse easily.

 

[Andrew4Supra]

Continuing the bumpstop trimming discussion:

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/modp-1104-the-bump-stops-here/

I had mine trimmed and would strongly suggest doing so with any eibach lowering spring to get the most out of the suspension travel. Removing the smallest round donut section of the bump stop front and rear.

 

[tub54500]

I just had them installed them in my MT, I posted some pics. Here's a couple more and keep in mind its a fresh install without alignment so car may settle a bit over time.

Continuing the bumpstop trimming discussion:

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/modp-1104-the-bump-stops-here/

Here's a snippet:

When I asked Peter about trimming the OEM bumpstops as part of installing aftermarket shocks and lowering springs, here’s what he had to say on the subject: Many aftermarket spring kits and some coilovers require the OEM bumpstop top be used. If the car is lowered significantly, the bumpstops may be in contact all the time. This is likely to make the car understeer a lot and also ride really hard. It is sometimes recommended to shorten them to give some clearance. There are a few things to be aware of doing this. There will be less material, so when it is fully compressed it will be shorter than it was designed to be. The wheel will travel further into jounce or compression, which may cause tire clearance issues. Joints will be asked to go through a larger arc and may neck out. The bumpstops are usually tapered with a very soft nose’ on them. This means when they first make contact you hardly feel them and loads increase gently. If the nose is cut off, they can come in hard with a much stiffer rate. You can feel it and it may affect the handling, especially hitting a bump in a turn. If at all possible, reduce the length from the other end. That may not be possible if it locates on the top mount or grips on the damper shaft with a smaller inner diameter. In that case, cutting off the nose is the only real option, but the initial rate could be softened by drilling a series of holes around the diameter to allow part of it to collapse easily.

thank you so much for clarifying this for me !

 

[Bread1267]

Good enough for me I just ordered the springs ha. I did in fact buy spacers before I had the car so we're on the same page there. Good point on the track - pretty certain when I go at least initially I will not be anywhere near the limits.

Where did you end up ordering from?

 

[SupraTR]

Where did you end up ordering from?

Ebay - supposed to be delivered this week per the tracking number I received, so pretty fast shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184497855474

 

[tub54500]

Ebay - supposed to be delivered this week per the tracking number I received, so pretty fast shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184497855474

yep i ordered from this ebay seller too. And actually when i got the shipment, the eibach box says that its for the toyota supra

 

[SupraTR]

yep i ordered from this ebay seller too. And actually when i got the shipment, the eibach box says that its for the toyota supra

Hopefully they were the correct part number though and the correct drop you were expecting?

 

[tub54500]

Hopefully they were the correct part number though and the correct drop you were expecting?

yeah I hope so. the part number was E10-20-046-02-22 on the box

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