Yes working on car suspension isn't like surgery, more like butchery sometimes. Lots of rubber pivots and other influences come into play. The best way is often to have a hole alignment tool or guide which is a longer piece of bar the same OD as the mount bolt but without threads and a rounded bullet shaped nose. You insert it in the side with the best hole alignment and use the extra length as a lever as you hammer it through and the bullet shaped nose engages the other side of the member even if misaligned and pulls it into alignment. Once the alignment tool is through you simply tap it back through with the mount bolt while the tool/guide holds everything in place. Any piece of steel rod with the end rounded off on a grinder will do the job. The more misaligned the longer the guide tool needs to be for leverage.Use a jack to align the nut side first and then poke a metal spike through to align the other side. Adjust as needed.
except for orthos...Yes working on car suspension isn't like surgery, more like butchery sometimes.
Yeah this part is why springs install can be tricky. I spent 3 hours trying to get the bolt through and once I realized I can use a metal spike I have lying around to help align, it was done in 30 seconds.Yes working on car suspension isn't like surgery, more like butchery sometimes. Lots of rubber pivots and other influences come into play. The best way is often to have a hole alignment tool or guide which is a longer piece of bar the same OD as the mount bolt but without threads and a rounded bullet shaped nose. You insert it in the side with the best hole alignment and use the extra length as a lever as you hammer it through and the bullet shaped nose engages the other side of the member even if misaligned and pulls it into alignment. Once the alignment tool is through you simply tap it back through with the mount bolt while the tool/guide holds everything in place. Any piece of steel rod with the end rounded off on a grinder will do the job. The more misaligned the longer the guide tool needs to be for leverage.
Phil
I'm going to pick up a tapered punch to try as well since multiple people mentioned this method. Thanks!Yeah this part is why springs install can be tricky. I spent 3 hours trying to get the bolt through and once I realized I can use a metal spike I have lying around to help align, it was done in 30 seconds.
Yes the spike works OKish but as you tap the fastener through from the opposite side and drive the tapered spike out the tape allows the bush to misalign to a degree as it moves through the opposite hole. The rounded nose parallel tool works better. The idea with the parallel alignment guide is to tap the fastener almost all the way through until the rounded end is about to leave the rubber bushed section and then quickly drive the fastener the last inch or so home so the rounded end doesn't influence the alignment as it leaves the hole. So tap, tap, tap then check the remaining distance to go and then one whack the last inch or so. This system not only keeps things aligned but also preserves the threads on the fastener. It's always bad when you fight a bolt like this and finally get it there only to find you've destroyed the threads.Yeah this part is why springs install can be tricky. I spent 3 hours trying to get the bolt through and once I realized I can use a metal spike I have lying around to help align, it was done in 30 seconds.
yo man, I think we chatted on Reddit actually. If you didnāt get it sorted, check the MSS install video. They approach the rear totally different. Fast forward to 16:00.Tried both, literally for hours. Can get a screwdriver through, but can only adjust the hub out far enough for 1/2 the back side hole to be aligned if the front is aligned enough to take the bolt. I'm a fairly strong guy, buddy helping me is more experienced and even stronger, but I don't think force alone is going to solve this for me. It definitely seems mine is not normal, after seeing videos and hearing other people's accounts of getting it through.
An old thread suggested loosening inside LCA bolt to subframe, so I'll try that next. I only get to where the car is 1 day each week, so hoping for as much advice and new ideas as I can get.
Just watched, trying this now. Took a break after trying with the rear sway disconnected and realized that won't help the angle I need. The hub seems held very solid as far as toe/camber. Going to try disconnecting at camber bolt like the video you suggested now. I'll be back later!yo man, I think we chatted on Reddit actually. If you didnāt get it sorted, check the MSS install video. They approach the rear totally different. Fast forward to 16:00.
My man. Awesome news! Make sure to post some before and after shots for us. I just got mine back from an alignment and lowering just makes it a brand new car. I did let mine settle for a week and drove maybe 20 miles total before an alignment to lets the springs settle. I went with WhitelineTimmy_Jones, your are a hero today. Removed camber bolt like the MSS video, got the troublesome bolt fed through, and camber bolt was much easier to feed through last due to the slack in the hole of the LCA for adjustment. Just have to button that side up and do the other rear the MSS way.
Thank you!!