Ohlins Road & Track

[Evolution]

Update.
Got them on yesterday but just the fronts for now. I had the orientation of the link mounts exactly the opposite as @Oodis said to have it. I never put my stock links on after i installed them and took it straight to corner balance/ alignment. Adjusted the orientation and everything lined up nicely. All that's left is to somehow get my car to fit on my lifts at work so I can properly adjust length. Drove it around though and seem good but man these are noisy lol. Thanks again everyone.



The organizer i'm with is doing Big Willow on June 9th. I was actually going to post about it and future events we host in the Cali section. I came across your YT chan and saw that youre in the sub2 club, meanwhile i'm slighly faster than shitty lol.

Glad you got it all together! But it shouldnt be noisy. They should be as quiet as stock. Something doesnt sound right there.

Yep made it in the sub 2 club! Did the same for Chuckwalla and LVMS. You can join me now that you have good suspension. I instruct on track if you need help there too. Wont be able to make it to Big Willow since I will be at Spring Mountain the weekend before that. Then summer break until Laguna Seca. Thinking about Streets of Willow on 5-12 but havent decided yet.

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[Chong]

For those of you with the Vorshlag camber plates and Ohlin R&T, how are you dealing with the negative preload?

 

[FLtrackdays]

For those of you with the Vorshlag camber plates and Ohlin R&T, how are you dealing with the negative preload?

My car was inherently lower on my square 275/35-18 setup. No more tire rub and the car feels great. I was looking for more specifics to your question, but only came up with these:

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2057944

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/...-installing-ohlins-r-t-vorshlag-camber-plates

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2007890

Hope it helps

 

[ky.supra]

is the swift helper spring suppose to be on the top or the bottom of the main swift spring for the rear setup?

 

[Chong]

is the swift helper spring suppose to be on the top or the bottom of the main swift spring for the rear setup?

I recently installed the mentioned setup and placed the helper below the main spring for both front and rear, but as I understand, it effectively does not matter whether it's above or below the main spring.

 

[ky.supra]

I recently installed the mentioned setup and placed the helper below the main spring for both front and rear, but as I understand, it effectively does not matter whether it's above or below the main spring.

Gotcha, that's what my shop did as well.

Did you set your car back to OEM height or near oem height? and are you running 18" wheels too?

When we initially put the car down after installing the struts, swift springs and helper springs with spl & verkline supporting pieces. The rear end was so low we raised the springs in the rear relatively close to 14.5" from center of wheel center cap to the edge of the fender. The front end is around 14.0" give or take.

This is what it looks like

 

[Meraki Autoworks]

Running a sale on Ohlins this month for anyone interested.

-Josh

 

[Chong]

Gotcha, that's what my shop did as well.

Did you set your car back to OEM height or near oem height? and are you running 18" wheels too?

When we initially put the car down after installing the struts, swift springs and helper springs with spl & verkline supporting pieces. The rear end was so low we raised the springs in the rear relatively close to 14.5" from center of wheel center cap to the edge of the fender. The front end is around 14.0" give or take.

My measurements of center to fender are approximately the same as what you have, however I'm running a different wheel setup:
19x9.5 275/30
19x11 305/30
I currently have a two finger gap between tire and fender on both front and rear.

 

[Hasan]

Hello everyone

Is it possible to have the ohlins at wtock ride height. I am looking to improve on the suspension quality without lower the ride height. There are a lot of speed bumps in my area and I don’t want to scrape the car or go over at an angle.

Thanks

 

[FLtrackdays]

Hello everyone

Is it possible to have the ohlins at wtock ride height. I am looking to improve on the suspension quality without lower the ride height. There are a lot of speed bumps in my area and I don’t want to scrape the car or go over at an angle.

Thanks

Absolutely. Our cars are inherently low. But they are height adjustable.

 

[ky.supra]

My measurements of center to fender are approximately the same as what you have, however I'm running a different wheel setup:
19x9.5 275/30
19x11 305/30
I currently have a two finger gap between tire and fender on both front and rear.

Gotcha, I'm running 275/40/18 on 18x10 square

 

[ky.supra]

I was wondering if someone can give me some pointers to resolving this issue

This past Friday, I went to a shop to install my ohlins along with verkline lca, verkline caster arm, SPL front tie rod end, SPL front swaybar endlinks, Eibach front swaybar (middle setting) and SPL pieces for the rear end. Next morning, I got an alignment done so I didn't do any actually driving until today, Sunday.

Aligment
Front: -2.5 camber, 8.3 caster, 0 toe
Rear: -2.0 camber, 0.28 total toe in

I noticed my car is making a clunky noise when I turn my steering wheel full lock to the right and full lock to the left. The front tie rod end is rubbing the eibach front swaybar and I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to fixing this? For now I'm avoiding full lock while driving. There's also a rub mark on the top end link on the passenger side, I'm not sure if I need to reposition the J shape mount on the passenger side (see image).

As mentioned by previous members in thread, I had the shop "position the J shaped link mount on the ohlins strut at the 10 o'clock position on R front and 2 o'clock on the L front this should give enough room for the thicker links to have room to move around."

 

[digatron]

Glad you got it all together! But it shouldnt be noisy. They should be as quiet as stock. Something doesnt sound right there.

Yep made it in the sub 2 club! Did the same for Chuckwalla and LVMS. You can join me now that you have good suspension. I instruct on track if you need help there too. Wont be able to make it to Big Willow since I will be at Spring Mountain the weekend before that. Then summer break until Laguna Seca. Thinking about Streets of Willow on 5-12 but havent decided yet.

Time to chase sub 55 club. Im almost there.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I was wondering if someone can give me some pointers to resolving this issue

This past Friday, I went to a shop to install my ohlins along with verkline lca, verkline caster arm, SPL front tie rod end, SPL front swaybar endlinks, Eibach front swaybar (middle setting) and SPL pieces for the rear end. Next morning, I got an alignment done so I didn't do any actually driving until today, Sunday.

Aligment
Front: -2.5 camber, 8.3 caster, 0 toe
Rear: -2.0 camber, 0.28 total toe in

I noticed my car is making a clunky noise when I turn my steering wheel full lock to the right and full lock to the left. The front tie rod end is rubbing the eibach front swaybar and I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to fixing this? For now I'm avoiding full lock while driving. There's also a rub mark on the top end link on the passenger side, I'm not sure if I need to reposition the J shape mount on the passenger side (see image).

As mentioned by previous members in thread, I had the shop "position the J shaped link mount on the ohlins strut at the 10 o'clock position on R front and 2 o'clock on the L front this should give enough room for the thicker links to have room to move around."

I think I was rubbing everywhere ? at one time or another. Even though we don’t have the exact same parts (all of mine are SPL, Ohlins with Vorschlag plates -difference there- and Eibach sway bars), I’m hoping this may be helpful.

Have you considered spacers? I’m using 10mm all around. That gave me enough wiggle room to avoid inside rub while also avoiding the outer fender. Since there are so many variables, I had to find an alignment shop that had a tons of experience with adjusting after market parts or racing. They were able to maximize the negative camber up front and avoid all those areas. Their alignment guru ?‍ does it by hand, using string. Like Bryan (Razorlab) and some others on here.

Another obvious thing to consider is committing to one wheel and tire. I’m using Maxxis 275/35-18 Victra-RC1s, for example. But any tire could be used. Keeping in mind, the bigger you go, the less wiggle room you’ll have. Because everything is so close, every time I would switch tires, he’d have to adjust it again. I wish I had exact specs for your car. But unfortunately every piece (wheels, tires, aftermarket parts) makes it slightly different for everyone.

 

[ky.supra]

I think I was rubbing everywhere ? at one time or another. Even though we don’t have the exact same parts (all of mine are SPL, Ohlins with Vorschlag plates -difference there- and Eibach sway bars), I’m hoping this may be helpful.

Have you considered spacers? I’m using 10mm all around. That gave me enough wiggle room to avoid inside rub while also avoiding the outer fender. Since there are so many variables, I had to find an alignment shop that had a tons of experience with adjusting after market parts or racing. They were able to maximize the negative camber up front and avoid all those areas. Their alignment guru ?‍ does it by hand, using string. Like Bryan (Razorlab) and some others on here.

Another obvious thing to consider is committing to one wheel and tire. I’m using Maxxis 275/35-18 Victoria-RC1s, for example. But any tire could be used. Keeping in mind, the bigger you go, the less wiggle room you’ll have. Because everything is so close, every time I would switch tires, he’d have to adjust it again. I wish I had exact specs for your car. But unfortunately every piece (wheels, tires, aftermarket parts) makes it slightly different for everyone.

I have 5mm spacers on all four corners and no rubbing on the fenders.

I also looked into the other thread that you made about your bent tie rods

I believe I have the same amount of spacers on the spl tie rod end as Razorlab's picture as shown below, I will have the shop double-check it and maybe extend the front swaybar end links a bit; it's going to be a couple of trial and error.

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