Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[razorlab]

Daily get Advan AD09

if setting lap time with stock suspension get RE71RS as the A052 rolls too much on stock camber, requiring more steering angle to make a turn

if setting laptime with coilovers + camber kit the A052 has an edge because it is lighter

The fact that the AD09 was faster than the CRS and even the AR1 completely makes this test not something to reference. Probably the only people in the world to experience this. Anyone that has tracked those tires in real life would attest. The fact that it's so close to the A052 is 100% BS.

Haha
Well direzza is said to be 2nd only to cup2r as far as semislicks go... dunno about new trofeo rs but time will tell. Next upgr around here over dunlop are full slicks.

We don't get the Direzza here in the USA unfortunately.

Sponsored

 

[razorlab]

For anyone interested.

Whiteline 24mm front sway bar is 24.3mm and 5lbs heavier than the hollow 24mm OEM front sway bar.

 

[JRTritsch]

For anyone interested.

Whiteline 24mm front sway bar is 24.3mm and 5lbs heavier than the hollow 24mm OEM front sway bar.

And it comes with bushings that are way too thick and have to be cut down.
I’m 1 for 3 on whiteline sway bars that actually fit. I realize it’s a really complicated part to engineer ?

 

[Evolution]

And it comes with bushings that are way too thick and have to be cut down.
I’m 1 for 3 on whiteline sway bars that actually fit. I realize it’s a really complicated part to engineer ?

mine fit no problem….

 

[razorlab]

And it comes with bushings that are way too thick and have to be cut down.
I’m 1 for 3 on whiteline sway bars that actually fit. I realize it’s a really complicated part to engineer ?

Did you forget to put the black plates back on under the mounts?

Visual:

 

[JRTritsch]

That’s me lightly compressing the bushing with a clamp. Waaay too much material. It would bind so bad if you just tighten that down.

 

[i3igpete]

Maybe it's just the lighting, but it looks like the bushing doesn't even wrap entirely around the bar, like it was designed for smaller diameter or they sent you the wrong one

 

[JRTritsch]

Maybe it's just the lighting, but it looks like the bushing doesn't even wrap entirely around the bar, like it was designed for smaller diameter or they sent you the wrong one

It seemed to fit the bar diameter correctly. I trimmed the bushings down to flush and still used it. Maybe they sent the wrong ones or poor quality control? I remember double checking the part number to make sure I got the right one.

For anyone installing, the bar should turn in the bushing by hand with not a huge amount of effort. If was that tight during install, pull the end links and make sure it’s not bound up.

I bought a bar from them 10 years ago that hit the control arms on a fr-s, so I’ve been unimpressed ever since lol.

 

[razorlab]

The oem bushings are bound to the bar to add more bar rate. It’s not an issue. The oem bushings are also not flush with the mount.

 

[JRTritsch]

The oem bushings are bound to the bar to add more bar rate. It’s not an issue. The oem bushings are also not flush with the mount.

There is a fundamental difference between the bound rubber bushing which acts light rotating spring versus the stiction provided by lubricated polyurethane. You have no consistent return to center. Urethane is not an effective spring material, it does not have the compressibility or hysteresis for that purpose.

If they chose over compressed urethane to hold the sway bar clamped with minimal rotation that’s even worse engineering than an ill-fitting bushing.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Free car wash last day on track. No longer rubbing the inside wheel well with extra camber. So that’a plus. Still have my Nankangs and want to try and find the threads on them. I’m such a bad judge of when that’ll happen. That’s my only real concern = big relief ?‍? to be able to go out and just drive the snot out of her.

Also, never saw 92 octane before or ethanol free 93. Pretty cool for those that don’t drive often.

 

[Todday1]

These are great shots and good you are driving in the wet as it gives you more confidence on car control when you are back on the dry. On driving the tires until they cord. Just remember to get under to check insides especially as you start getting to higher camber. Was watching the outsides and did not check enough the insides. Nankangs are pretty good all the way down to cords. These are hooiser r7.

 

[razorlab]

Nankangs are pretty good all the way down to cords.

Maybe if someone drives 4/10ths on them. They heat cycle out WAYYYYYYYYYY before they turn into slicks. I get about 4.5 days out of a set of CRS before they drop off the grip cliff.

This is a heat-cycled out CRS:

 

[Todday1]

That is true. I am just cheap and for hpde sessions when they fall off i just try to adjust to make up for it but for time trail yes i have to balance heat cycles and tread wear and as you say you cannot run all the way down even when they still look like they still have tread left.

 

[AHP]

Speaking of CR-S.. I ran them in the rain last week for the first time and they were feckin worthless. I don't think this is a major surprise, but I expected a little more. The car was totally undriveable. Packed it in after 2 miserable sessions.

Sponsored