Spring install question - compressors needed or not?

[jchadwell]

So, I'm moving from stock to STS for the '23 AX season and have been acquiring and installing parts. I installed a JB4 and AA catted DP a few weeks ago and the Eibach springs and sway bar just arrived. Still looking for used Camber plates and an intake but will pick up new ones in the Spring if I can't find a take offs for sale here before the car comes out of storage. Sorry, I'm rambling, my question is for those who've already installed springs.

I've checked several youtube installation videos and some use spring compressors and some don't. I last installed lowering springs on a '97 Cobra, we've moved three times since, and I couldn't tell you the last time I saw my spring compressors - I'm 99.99% confident I'll need a new set if they are actually needed. So, did you all use them? Do I need to pick up a new set before Spring?

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[RyanA90]

I installed MSS springs without a spring compressor perfectly fine.

 

[Evolution]

I installed eibach euros a while back and they required compressors. Better to have them on hand and not need them rather than not have them and need them.

 

[THOOPRA]

A buddy of mine installed suspension on his and his friends Supra w/o any spring compressors. He'll be doing mine this saturday and has also assured me we won't need them. I also reached out to another fella on Insta and he ALSO said he didn't need them haha . So I guess it's fine? He said they're not under a TON of compression and so far he hasn't had any issues when not using them. Take that for what it is haha.

I'll be doing euro eibachs.

 

[shownfu]

Didn't need them when I installed mine.

 

[Evolution]

@SD_MK Master spring swapper, what is the verdict here? I'm sure you have swapped more supra springs than anyone.

 

[SD_MK]

Spring compressors are necessary to do the job faster and safer in a way. Jack the spindle up to compress the fronts to max compression, put the spring compressors on to lock em. Be sure to remove the sway link and all the wiring/ brake line out of the way to not put unecessary stress on them when you drop the spindle. You do not need to remove the brake line from the caliper, just unhook it from it's mount, it has enough slack to do the job. Remove the center nut of the strut/ top hat to drop the strut assembly. No need to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the top hat yet, just the center nut to the strut. REMOVE THE NUT COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU DROP THE SPINDLE. Your spring rotation bearing might separate while you lower the jack so be careful. Lower the jack a little and try to remove the rotating bearing from the top hat first (because sometimes they get seized onto the top hat) before completely dropping it or you'll separate the fucker and have fun picking up the tiny ass ball bearings lol. Once that's dropped, you're gonna have to force the whole spindle assembly down while pulling the top of the strut assembly out from the car. Take off the old spring and reload the new spring. Re-use the factory dust boot and bump stop (or if your spring kit comes with new bump stops, use those). If you have the camber plates, now would be the time to remove the old top hat and replace it with the new one before putting the strut back into place. Once replaced, push the strut back under and jack the spindle up slowly til' it seats itself into the camber plated top hat... BE CAREFUL WITH THE SPRING ROTATION BEARING. make sure that sits flush before sending it up or you'll fuck that shit up. Once all is back in place, do reverse order and put that shit back together. BAM! Done.

P.S- it's easier done than said. I probably made that shit sound confusing lol.

 

[FLtrackdays]

P.S- it's easier done than said. I probably made that shit sound confusing lol.

That last part ?

 

[jchadwell]

Spring compressors are necessary to do the job faster and safer in a way. Jack the spindle up to compress the fronts to max compression, put the spring compressors on to lock em. Be sure to remove the sway link and all the wiring/ brake line out of the way to not put unecessary stress on them when you drop the spindle. You do not need to remove the brake line from the caliper, just unhook it from it's mount, it has enough slack to do the job. Remove the center nut of the strut/ top hat to drop the strut assembly. No need to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the top hat yet, just the center nut to the strut. REMOVE THE NUT COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU DROP THE SPINDLE. Your spring rotation bearing might separate while you lower the jack so be careful. Lower the jack a little and try to remove the rotating bearing from the top hat first (because sometimes they get seized onto the top hat) before completely dropping it or you'll separate the fucker and have fun picking up the tiny ass ball bearings lol. Once that's dropped, you're gonna have to force the whole spindle assembly down while pulling the top of the strut assembly out from the car. Take off the old spring and reload the new spring. Re-use the factory dust boot and bump stop (or if your spring kit comes with new bump stops, use those). If you have the camber plates, now would be the time to remove the old top hat and replace it with the new one before putting the strut back into place. Once replaced, push the strut back under and jack the spindle up slowly til' it seats itself into the camber plated top hat... BE CAREFUL WITH THE SPRING ROTATION BEARING. make sure that sits flush before sending it up or you'll fuck that shit up. Once all is back in place, do reverse order and put that shit back together. BAM! Done.

P.S- it's easier done than said. I probably made that shit sound confusing lol.

Not confusing at all and thanks for taking the time to type all that out! All the videos I've watched match your description. I'm still having a difficult time understanding what compressing the springs do to help though. When the assembly is at it's lowest position while the center nut is still attached, the springs appear to have very little tension that gets easily released by slowly lowering the jack after removing the nut. I also don't see where having a compressed versus uncompressed spring makes any difference in allowing it to slide out under the plastic fender piece. Does having the spring compressed reduce the chance of separating the bearing?

 

[SD_MK]

Not confusing at all and thanks for taking the time to type all that out! All the videos I've watched match your description. I'm still having a difficult time understanding what compressing the springs do to help though. When the assembly is at it's lowest position while the center nut is still attached, the springs appear to have very little tension that gets easily released by slowly lowering the jack after removing the nut. I also don't see where having a compressed versus uncompressed spring makes any difference in allowing it to slide out under the plastic fender piece. Does having the spring compressed reduce the chance of separating the bearing?

The stock springs are taller than the top of the strut, so the spring will just be jammed into the top hat even when you completely drop the jack holding the spindle. the compressor is there so you have clearance to pull the spring off. You DON'T need the compressors for the new springs though, lowering springs are short so you can just reload the sucker just fine.

 

[jchadwell]

The stock springs are taller than the top of the strut, so the spring will just be jammed into the top hat even when you completely drop the jack holding the spindle. the compressor is there so you have clearance to pull the spring off. You DON'T need the compressors for the new springs though, lowering springs are short so you can just reload the sucker just fine.

Gotcha. Makes sense. Thanks again for the detailed info - really appreciate it!

 

[nibble]

I agree with what @SD_MK said. Compressor is only needed for removing front stock spring and it is much safer to use it than without. you could ask around if anyone has it near your area to borrow or buy a cheap one from harbor freight.

 

[adawine]

Just run by autozone, advanced auto, etc and you can rent the spring compressors from them, then return them for free. Free tool use to have the right tool for the job, doesn’t make sense to me why you wouldn’t.

 

[jchadwell]

Just run by autozone, advanced auto, etc and you can rent the spring compressors from them, then return them for free. Free tool use to have the right tool for the job, doesn’t make sense to me why you wouldn’t.

This is the plan. Great minds think alike. My local Auto Zone has free loaners. Already looked them up online.

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