Updated oil pump?

[Faye]

Not sure if it is the video but I went ahead and made a list since I plan to attack this myself in the fall when it cools off. I went through parts diagrams on this. If you remove any suspension bolts they are 1x use too. I am planning on dropping the subframe and leaving the suspension in the car as much as possible. This is probably more work and time but I plan on tackling this in my garage on quick jacks and I want to limit the amount of weight on the subframe.

Sorry for being away from this damn thread for so long, I missed a lot.
The parts are all covered in great detail in my video, I show bags, quantities, and part #s for everything, but I'll help you out here.
You are going to leave the suspension in the car as you mentioned, but leave the struts attached. They will stay in the swivel bearings. You will detach the control arms from the subframe. 90118-WA663 aren't necessary.
You also will leave the steering rack and pump attached to the subframe. If you do not, then you will have to perform an alignment, it is a lot of extra work. Scratch 90118-WA586 and 90118-WA400 (the latter I don't think you have the correct part # for anyways.)
It is helpful to remove the sway bar, so I would recommend those one-time-use nuts to be added to your list.
You are also missing the 12 one-time-use stiffener plate bolts.
There are 8 total subframe bolts, 4 sets of 2 with different part #s.
The front control arm bolt has a one-time-use nut, the rear control arm is one time use nut only, bolt is fine to be re-used (I show the diagram at 5min 44sec in the video.)
In addition to the engine support brace, you will also need to fab your own bracket, and will need 2 M8 x 1.25 bolts.

Again.... not trying to be annoying or push views on my video, I make less than a penny off of one view, I just put a lot of effort into making it for exactly this purpose and I think that would be a very helpful tool for you to see what you're missing here.

To the other fella's question: it's called TAS, basically Toyota's technical assistance. It's not a record of warranty work, though most were performed under warranty. There were 33 total that I found. There could have been more that were described differently, or with no mention of reading oil level or oil pressure.

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[cornby]

just got my car back yesterday and wanted to close the loop on my experience.

summarized:

• car is 8/20 build date.
• symptom was engine oil measure noping out at 16%.
• parts and labor all covered under powertrain warranty. didn't get any pushback on it.
• was told the strainer (Part # 15104-WAA01) is on backorder.
• took 2 weeks all said and done.

also heads up for folks getting this done at a dealership, double check your cars when you pick up. the tech at my place forgot to tighten my front endlinks, which made for an unpleasant surprise lol.

 

[Mothman]

Sorry for being away from this damn thread for so long, I missed a lot.
The parts are all covered in great detail in my video, I show bags, quantities, and part #s for everything, but I'll help you out here.
You are going to leave the suspension in the car as you mentioned, but leave the struts attached. They will stay in the swivel bearings. You will detach the control arms from the subframe. 90118-WA663 aren't necessary.
You also will leave the steering rack and pump attached to the subframe. If you do not, then you will have to perform an alignment, it is a lot of extra work. Scratch 90118-WA586 and 90118-WA400 (the latter I don't think you have the correct part # for anyways.)
It is helpful to remove the sway bar, so I would recommend those one-time-use nuts to be added to your list.
You are also missing the 12 one-time-use stiffener plate bolts.
There are 8 total subframe bolts, 4 sets of 2 with different part #s.
The front control arm bolt has a one-time-use nut, the rear control arm is one time use nut only, bolt is fine to be re-used (I show the diagram at 5min 44sec in the video.)
In addition to the engine support brace, you will also need to fab your own bracket, and will need 2 M8 x 1.25 bolts.

Again.... not trying to be annoying or push views on my video, I make less than a penny off of one view, I just put a lot of effort into making it for exactly this purpose and I think that would be a very helpful tool for you to see what you're missing here.

To the other fella's question: it's called TAS, basically Toyota's technical assistance. It's not a record of warranty work, though most were performed under warranty. There were 33 total that I found. There could have been more that were described differently, or with no mention of reading oil level or oil pressure.

Awesome thank you. I started putting that together before you video dropped. Will get it updated and once again. Thank you!

 

[Pooopra]

Thanks for this incredibly informative thread. This may be a reach, but has anyone in the Bay Area gotten their oil pump replaced via warranty at one of the local dealers and had a decent experience? Currently going through this right now...

 

[AngryCar]

Thanks for this incredibly informative thread. This may be a reach, but has anyone in the Bay Area gotten their oil pump replaced via warranty at one of the local dealers and had a decent experience? Currently going through this right now...

When I had mine done the Toyota dealer didn't know how to swap it. Luckily they also have a BMW dealership so they sent my car there since they know the B58. That is probably your best bet.

IDK if this helps, but I asked AI....

Yes, there are several car dealerships in the Bay Area that have both Toyota and BMW dealerships. Here are a couple of examples:

Concord Toyota and BMW Concord: Both are part of the Sonic Automotive group and located in Concord, CA.
Stevens Creek Toyota and BMW of Stevens Creek: These dealerships are located in San Jose, CA

Hope that helps.

 

[i3igpete]

This actually seems like a correct use of AI for once...

 

[Pooopra]

When I had mine done the Toyota dealer didn't know how to swap it. Luckily they also have a BMW dealership so they sent my car there since they know the B58. That is probably your best bet.

IDK if this helps, but I asked AI....

Yes, there are several car dealerships in the Bay Area that have both Toyota and BMW dealerships. Here are a couple of examples:

Concord Toyota and BMW Concord: Both are part of the Sonic Automotive group and located in Concord, CA.
Stevens Creek Toyota and BMW of Stevens Creek: These dealerships are located in San Jose, CA

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the info! Did you have yours covered under warranty? I took my car to 2 dealers (Fremont first, then Sunnyvale). I went to the Fremont dealer 2 times to verify the diagnosis in hopes of getting the issue sorted and the paperwork started. Tbh, I really don't think they wanted to take my car based on what they told me they did vs. what I saw on my dashcam.

Anyway, I have an appointment with the Sunnyvale dealer this week (the master tech is well aware of the issue and already proactively looked up the parts for availability).

 

[AngryCar]

Thanks for the info! Did you have yours covered under warranty? I took my car to 2 dealers (Fremont first, then Sunnyvale). I went to the Fremont dealer 2 times to verify the diagnosis in hopes of getting the issue sorted and the paperwork started. Tbh, I really don't think they wanted to take my car based on what they told me they did vs. what I saw on my dashcam.

Anyway, I have an appointment with the Sunnyvale dealer this week (the master tech is well aware of the issue and already proactively looked up the parts for availability).

Yes mine was covered under warranty. Took 2 weeks and 2 days. I showed the dealer the oil level check and how it stops at 16% and told them I read this indicates an oil pump issue. They actually listened and called Toyota to verify. The tech they talked to had them do an oil pressure test, which I believe is in the secret menu in the gauge cluster. They told me it failed that test and Toyota ok'd the warranty work. When I run the oil level check now it goes to 100% like it should. It really was an easy process for me, just took some time for the dealer to order the parts and I guess it's like a 14 hour job. Luckily I also have a 2024 GR Corolla Circuit Edition so I was able to drive that while they had the Supra.

 

[Pooopra]

Yes mine was covered under warranty. Took 2 weeks and 2 days. I showed the dealer the oil level check and how it stops at 16% and told them I read this indicates an oil pump issue. They actually listened and called Toyota to verify. The tech they talked to had them do an oil pressure test, which I believe is in the secret menu in the gauge cluster. They told me it failed that test and Toyota ok'd the warranty work. When I run the oil level check now it goes to 100% like it should. It really was an easy process for me, just took some time for the dealer to order the parts and I guess it's like a 14 hour job. Luckily I also have a 2024 GR Corolla Circuit Edition so I was able to drive that while they had the Supra.

That's good to know. I will find out by the end of this week if work on my oil pump will be approved by the second dealer I took it to. They mentioned that Toyota contacts BMW for the warranty and BMW will pay them for it. Crossing fingers that I can have this situation resolved before the end of the month at least.

 

[AngryCar]

That's good to know. I will find out by the end of this week if work on my oil pump will be approved by the second dealer I took it to. They mentioned that Toyota contacts BMW for the warranty and BMW will pay them for it. Crossing fingers that I can have this situation resolved before the end of the month at least.

I read others in this forum who had theirs fixed under warranty as well. If the oil level check is failing at 16% the pump needs replacing and that's not on you, that's on Toyota/BMW. Should be covered under warranty. Good luck.

 

[Pooopra]

Hi all, just wanted to close the loop on this thread regarding my warranty experience for those who are interested. I went to two dealerships (Fremont Toyota, and then Sunnyvale Toyota) to help troubleshoot my issue and get the warranty process started. My experience with Fremont Toyota was an absolute nightmare, and I advise every Supra owner in the Bay Area to avoid that dealership at all costs. Not only did they waste my time, but they deliberately lied about doing the tests they performed on my car, they went as far as to lie about the data that they claimed to have found. They also insisted it wasn't an oil pump issue, but a software issue. I just think they didn't want to work on my car. I have left a Google review for that dealership here. I've also documented a timeline of the events including photos that I can share if folks want to see the details.

Anyway, here's a summary of the timeline at Sunnyvale Toyota:

• July 1 - Dropped off my car for diagnosis at the dealer. Master tech opened a case with Toyota to kickstart the warranty process.
• July 2 - Picked up my car and the tech confirmed that I will need a new oil pump (he documented all the tests they ran and included the findings). He mentioned that the subframe bolts and oil pump are on backorder with no ETA. He also advised me not to track my car because my car was showing low oil pressure, but daily driving is fine. This is the opposite of what Fremont Toyota said.
• July 10 - I was notified that my warranty was approved.
• Aug 2 - I dropped off my car at the dealer.
• Aug 7 - I picked up my car and verified that the issue is now resolved. The tech said he actually finished the job in less than 2 days, but allowed extra time for the RTV to dry. He also took the time to explain how the job went and answered all of my questions.

Very satisfied with the Sunnyvale dealer, and I would recommend that particular tech to anyone who needs to see a Toyota dealer (if not indy shop) for their Supra.

 

[AngryCar]

Hi all, just wanted to close the loop on this thread regarding my warranty experience for those who are interested.

Stinks that it took over a month for you to get this resolved, but at least you were without the car for only 5 days. My car was in the dealer for 16 days to get mine fixed. My dealer, off the recommendations of the BMW techs who ultimately did the work, told me I should not drive it, not sure why yours said driving was ok.

Like you the actual work took less than two days, they said it was a 12 hour job, so 1-1/2 days seems right.

Now that you found a good dealer, bring all your cars there. The dealer I went with now gets all my business, they know who I am now since I brought my 24 GR Corolla and Supra to them now. They give me special treatment now since they know the Supra and GRC aren't Camrys or rav4's.
Glad you're fixed up.

 

[SupraTimo]

Hey all.
unfortunately my problem with the oil pump just started, I’m 1.5 months out of the 5 year 60k mile warranty. FML
My car has barely 20k miles.
It’s not gonna be cheap I know. Does anyone know a place in the Bay Area that is not a dealer that can replace the pump?
The dealer is gonna be twice as expensive I know that so I’m gonna try to find an independent shop to replace the pump.
Best

 

[jchadwell]

Hey all.
unfortunately my problem with the oil pump just started, I’m 1.5 months out of the 5 year 60k mile warranty. FML
My car has barely 20k miles.
It’s not gonna be cheap I know. Does anyone know a place in the Bay Area that is not a dealer that can replace the pump?
The dealer is gonna be twice as expensive I know that so I’m gonna try to find an independent shop to replace the pump.
Best

I would go through your dealer and ask for goodwill warranty coverage first. While it’s a very small percentage that are failing there are enough that Toyota knows there’s at least a small issue going on. There’s also the fact that BMW subsequently replaced the plastic piece with metal which you can press them about acknowledging the plastic part was not up to quality standards. And then finally, point out that if you had purchased the car certified pre-owned it would be covered by warranty but because you paid more for a brand new car you get less coverage and how backwards that is.
I went this route with a Ford Edge my wife drove a while back and Ford covered all but like $500 or so of an almost $2000 bill for us. It was also a somewhat known issue where the PTU would fail around at around 60-80,000 miles. Ours happened at 70 something. Would have been covered under the CPO 100,000 powertrain coverage but because we bought new it’s only 60,000. Your situation is similar and I’d give that a shot first.

 

[SupraTimo]

I would go through your dealer and ask for goodwill warranty coverage first. While it’s a very small percentage that are failing there are enough that Toyota knows there’s at least a small issue going on. There’s also the fact that BMW subsequently replaced the plastic piece with metal which you can press them about acknowledging the plastic part was not up to quality standards. And then finally, point out that if you had purchased the car certified pre-owned it would be covered by warranty but because you paid more for a brand new car you get less coverage and how backwards that is.
I went this route with a Ford Edge my wife drove a while back and Ford covered all but like $500 or so of an almost $2000 bill for us. It was also a somewhat known issue where the PTU would fail around at around 60-80,000 miles. Ours happened at 70 something. Would have been covered under the CPO 100,000 powertrain coverage but because we bought new it’s only 60,000. Your situation is similar and I’d give that a shot first.

That’s my next step. I made an appointment with Toyota and hopefully something can be worked out. I don’t want to pay 3 grand for the dern pump !!

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