Verkline or SPL?

[Habu]

I'm not asking for specs, I'm asking because I'm the chassis and suspension guy on every forum I end up on and it seems like I write one for all of them. I'll write one if need be.

Also, I think you meant to reply to OP.

Whats the best way to preload my sway-bar with adjustable end-links?

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[FLtrackdays]

Whats the best way to preload my sway-bar with adjustable end-links?

Couple good links below:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspens...djustable-Swaybar-Links-F8X-M2-M3-M4-MCS.html

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/suspension-tuning-and-optimization/show/sway-bar-pre-load

What I got out of it, with adjustable end links, you set the length of each link individually. If using fixed-length (non-adjustable) end links and your car’s left and right ride heights are not perfectly matched, the sway bar may not align with both mounting points and have to force the bar into place, twisting it and creating preload.

When your ride height is set, both ends of the sway bar should line up with their mounting points. So you can install the end links without having to push or pull on the bar, making sure it is not twisted when resting, eliminating preload. Someone on Reddit listed the steps ?

1. Place the car on a flat surface with its normal load (driver, passenger, etc.).
2. Install One End Link: Attach one end link to the sway bar and suspension.
3. Adjust the Other: Adjust the length of the second end link until it lines up perfectly with the mounting hole, requiring no force to install. If you have to twist the bar or force the link in, there is preload. Adjust until installation is effortless.
4. Tighten Everything: Once both links are in place without tension, tighten them down.

Hope it helps

 

[tomfree]

I'm not asking for specs, I'm asking because I'm the chassis and suspension guy on every forum I end up on and it seems like I write one for all of them. I'll write one if need be.

Also, I think you meant to reply to OP.

You are correct...apologies for the confusion.

 

[Habu]

You are correct...apologies for the confusion.

Ruff ?

 

[Habu]

Couple good links below:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspens...djustable-Swaybar-Links-F8X-M2-M3-M4-MCS.html

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/suspension-tuning-and-optimization/show/sway-bar-pre-load

What I got out of it, with adjustable end links, you set the length of each link individually. If using fixed-length (non-adjustable) end links and your car’s left and right ride heights are not perfectly matched, the sway bar may not align with both mounting points and have to force the bar into place, twisting it and creating preload.

When your ride height is set, both ends of the sway bar should line up with their mounting points. So you can install the end links without having to push or pull on the bar, making sure it is not twisted when resting, eliminating preload. Someone on Reddit listed the steps ?

1. Place the car on a flat surface with its normal load (driver, passenger, etc.).
2. Install One End Link: Attach one end link to the sway bar and suspension.
3. Adjust the Other: Adjust the length of the second end link until it lines up perfectly with the mounting hole, requiring no force to install. If you have to twist the bar or force the link in, there is preload. Adjust until installation is effortless.
4. Tighten Everything: Once both links are in place without tension, tighten them down.

Hope it helps

?

 

[Strych9]

Couple good links below:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspens...djustable-Swaybar-Links-F8X-M2-M3-M4-MCS.html

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/suspension-tuning-and-optimization/show/sway-bar-pre-load

What I got out of it, with adjustable end links, you set the length of each link individually. If using fixed-length (non-adjustable) end links and your car’s left and right ride heights are not perfectly matched, the sway bar may not align with both mounting points and have to force the bar into place, twisting it and creating preload.

When your ride height is set, both ends of the sway bar should line up with their mounting points. So you can install the end links without having to push or pull on the bar, making sure it is not twisted when resting, eliminating preload. Someone on Reddit listed the steps ?

1. Place the car on a flat surface with its normal load (driver, passenger, etc.).
2. Install One End Link: Attach one end link to the sway bar and suspension.
3. Adjust the Other: Adjust the length of the second end link until it lines up perfectly with the mounting hole, requiring no force to install. If you have to twist the bar or force the link in, there is preload. Adjust until installation is effortless.
4. Tighten Everything: Once both links are in place without tension, tighten them down.

Hope it helps

This is the way.

To be more thorough, attaching the sway bar should be the very last step in setup.

Flat surface, tire pressure set, geo set (not possible on these cars), weight set (you or sandbags of your weight, fuel, etc.), ride height, corner balance, alignment, anti-roll bar. You should be able to drop it down, start it up, and pull straight onto a track.

The exception to this is for circle track or oval setups that rely on ARB preload. For everyone else, you should encounter zero resistance bolting the ARB links up.

 

[Habu]

This is the way.

To be more thorough, attaching the sway bar should be the very last step in setup.

Flat surface, tire pressure set, geo set (not possible on these cars), weight set (you or sandbags of your weight, fuel, etc.), ride height, corner balance, alignment, anti-roll bar. You should be able to drop it down, start it up, and pull straight onto a track.

The exception to this is for circle track or oval setups that rely on ARB preload. For everyone else, you should encounter zero resistance bolting the ARB links up.

That’s actually clever. Attaching the sway bar last instead. I’ve been fighting with these adjustable end links for a while now. Originally had everything set right but noticed the tie rod bearings on the last end link I had tightened down was completely offset. One bearing completely turned full lock and the other one exactly in the center. Car was on the ground, wheel straight, pressures matched and weighted driver seat. I got everything set right now but my driver side tie rod has more threads protruding than my passenger. Maybe I’ll just fix it later on if I have any issues lol.

 

[Strych9]

As long as they aren't bound up, aren't about to strip, and go on/off without effort, I'd send it.

I really wish we had an option to go to a bladed ARB for these cars. I guess it'll be another thing that I add to the list of things that I tell myself I'm going to fab and never get around to.

 

[tracer bullet]

I didn't think it was worth a new thread, so I'll post it here. Seems like Dinan is coming up with an option for us as well.

https://www.dinancars.com/products/suspension-hardware/monoballs/parts/D280-0022

You need to press old bushings out but it looks like you slip-fit, Loctite, and bolt down the new bushings.

Has anyone seen this type of bushing replacement before? It's new to me. The price isn't so bad.

 

[Strych9]

I didn't think it was worth a new thread, so I'll post it here. Seems like Dinan is coming up with an option for us as well.

https://www.dinancars.com/products/suspension-hardware/monoballs/parts/D280-0022

You need to press old bushings out but it looks like you slip-fit, Loctite, and bolt down the new bushings.

Has anyone seen this type of bushing replacement before? It's new to me. The price isn't so bad.

I've seen a few over the years. Nothing new there, it's just a matter of whether the joint itself is worth a shit and how well the machine work was done.

Good idea, execution tbd.

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