Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[spaghettihoes]

TBH, his comment just confused me more. You/mark/bob mentioned to bed in them in hard/violently, which I interpret as slamming the brakes with little to no modulation repeatedly to threshold, from full cold to full hot. But Peter mentioned that treating the brake pedal like a fully on/off switch didn't work for him.

Well one was discussing bedding process vs on track behavior. Either way I followed the general bed in procedure everyone else did (60-5, 80-5 passes than a cool down with minimal brake use) and haven't had this issue with other pads. PMUs just don't play well with other compounds, particularly the stock Brembo pads.

The problem is that the issue doesn't appear until a couple laps after stopping from 130 mph so it's hard to test until you're on track.

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[Rob_SER]

I still have them, maybe one day I'll give them another go with a new set of rotors

 

[garudathree]

you don't need to wait for the track to know if it's bedded in properly, just repeat the bedding process and get into adherent mode of friction again to feel it

 

[spaghettihoes]

That's the thing, it feels fine when I'm bedding it in.

Heat/load increases exponentially so braking at 130 MPH is 4 times more energy than 65 MPH. It's hard to recreate heavy braking at 130 MPH outside of a track. I am stretching a bit to hit 80 on the back road by me.

I'll try doing it more and seeing if I can recreate it though.

 

[razorlab]

That's the thing, it feels fine when I'm bedding it in.

Heat/load increases exponentially so braking at 130 MPH is 4 times more energy than 65 MPH. It's hard to recreate heavy braking at 130 MPH outside of a track. I am stretching a bit to hit 80 on the back road by me.

I'll try doing it more and seeing if I can recreate it though.

Either use new rotors or move to different pads. The Hawk DTC60's are even cheaper and actually work better. They dust like crazy and the dust is nasty on the paint if it gets wet. But if you keep up on cleaning the car, shouldn't have an issue.

DTC60 are just at the edge of too little pad for 550whp+ in my Supra on the short NE tracks. I had to move on from the PMU Club Racers last year. YMMV.

CSG C21 are great pads. I never had to think about my pads when I ran them. I never had to think about them at Pocono Mega Track which is 3.5 miles and I hit over 155mph every lap. Unfortunately, they are INSANELY overpriced. Like highway robbery priced.

 

[spaghettihoes]

Either use new rotors or move to different pads. The Hawk DTC60's are even cheaper and actually work better. They dust like crazy and the dust is nasty on the paint if it gets wet. But if you keep up on cleaning the car, shouldn't have an issue.

DTC60 are just at the edge of too little pad for 550whp+ in my Supra on the short NE tracks. I had to move on from the PMU Club Racers last year. YMMV.

CSG C21 are great pads. I never had to think about my pads when I ran them. I never had to think about them at Pocono Mega Track which is 3.5 miles and I hit over 155mph every lap. Unfortunately, they are INSANELY overpriced. Like highway robbery priced.

Yeah definitely looking at alternatives, I ordered another set of PMUs a while back that are shipping soon as well as new rotors. If it happens again this week I'll try one more time with a new set and move on to something else. The CSGs sound awesome but that pricing is ridiculous.

 

[racebuild]

Now I know why you guys just do new rotors with new pads. I wired wheeled the stock rotors and installed the club racer pads. Bedded the snot out of them a month back and 2 hot laps into the track day today and they were shuddering like crazy.

Wire wheel doesn’t do much for surface prep/deglazing rotors.

3M makes rotor conditioning disc, grab some of those with a drill+roloc adapter.
Don’t use too much pressure, let the disc do the work.

 

[Rob_SER]

Really bee

Yeah definitely looking at alternatives, I ordered another set of PMUs a while back that are shipping soon as well as new rotors. If it happens again this week I'll try one more time with a new set and move on to something else. The CSGs sound awesome but that pricing is ridiculous.

I'll try Endless ME20 next season, I can let you know. I actually installed them with new rotors last week. I ordered them from Black Hawk Japan (directly from Japan) and they came out to about 400USD shipped for the whole set (which is about half the price US retailers sell them for...)

Unfortunatly, here, in the Great North, it's already snow time, so my next track day will most likely be next may...

 

[FLtrackdays]

Yeah definitely looking at alternatives, I ordered another set of PMUs a while back that are shipping soon as well as new rotors. If it happens again this week I'll try one more time with a new set and move on to something else. The CSGs sound awesome but that pricing is ridiculous.

I know when this happened to me (different pad brand - not project mu, same rotor), I didn’t bed them in enough. Hindsight is 20/20 ofc. Then to go back after the fact, I semi corrected it but it just wasn’t the same. I could probably reuse them now that I know I really need to get on them. Thankfully, prices have really dropped on our rotors, so I buy new ones to go with the new pads. I use to do that for my old track car. Project mu 999 is my current pad of choice. Hawk DTC60 was great when I was 1st getting comfortable with the car. I don’t think it’s just a project mu thang. These are some BIG rotors! Requiring a lot of heat & more bedding in than I was previously used to.

On another note, I was waiting on some SPL tie rod bearing replacements. They came in and we were still getting some play (in the front end). I was told they’ll last a bit more but I said screw it. Bought the Verkline version instead. Slowly replacing these worn out SPL parts ?

Can we just change the subject to oil? What oil is everyone using?

This one ? and it meets the fancy BMW LL-01 specs ?

 

[tomfree]

Wire wheel doesn’t do much for surface prep/deglazing rotors.

3M makes rotor conditioning disc, grab some of those with a drill+roloc adapter.
Don’t use too much pressure, let the disc do the work.

Ah...I did not know about this product...off to research. Thank you for sharing. I'm still probably going to err on the side of replacing rotors, but if I have another tool in my arsenal, it's a good thing.

My LeMons foxbody Mustang drives me to learn, as we break a lot of stuff, and have to figure out a way to fix it without financial ruin.

 

[Vegas17]

Ordered the Dynamic Friction rotors from Rock Auto. When using the previous PMU pads on new rotors is there anything i should do to prep the pads before bedding?

 

[tomfree]

Ordered the Dynamic Friction rotors from Rock Auto. When using the previous PMU pads on new rotors is there anything i should do to prep the pads before bedding?

Treat the old pads the same as new ones. Just go through the bedding process to transfer the pad material to the new rotors as if you were running new rotors AND new pads.

 

[Gabe]

Me…. Who has NEVER bed brake pads, Reading all this talk about rotors and pads… while installing a used set of 345 mm rear rotors and calipers and fitting new Hawk DTCs 60 and 30s front and rear.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Me…. Who has NEVER bed brake pads, Reading all this talk about rotors and pads… while installing a used set of 345 mm rear rotors and calipers and fitting new Hawk DTCs 60 and 30s front and rear.

Summary: If that set is already mated to each other, it’s a dun deal. If they’re new rotors, you just bed them in. If they’re rotors that was mated to another pad’s transfer film, then you really have to make sure you bed them in hard & properly and/or use low grit sandpaper, to remove that old film and creat the new.

 

[razorlab]

This one ? and it meets the fancy BMW LL-01 specs ?

Sir, did you not get the memo? 9 out of 10 interneters believe that running thicker than 0w-20 will cause world food shortages and the third coming of something apocalyptic. Nevermind that myself and others have proven this false by actual real world data.

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