Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Davo307]

I did a track day there a few years ago at a Miata Reunion. I got five sessions of 20 minutes each and had a blast. That's why I'm willing to drive 12 hours to get there and do it in the heat of July! I love tracks with elevation change. That's why Road America and MidOhio are my other favorites. Someday soon I'd like to get to Road Atlanta and VIR.

Can confirm. Both Road Atlanta had VIR are great fun. I've done many DE, TT and endurance races at both.

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[initialDnut]

In case you have not seen this brilliant video, I thought I had to share..



Not expecting a Supra pulling away for Super Formula cars! They weigh less than 1,500 lb (667kg) and have 550hp.

 

[Subydude]

Doing some reading about intake panel filters along with general intake stuff, it appears like a stock tune car with a panel filter is fine, but there might be other options (full intakes) for slightly more power that don’t affect IAT. mostly it was me being annoyed there only seems to be oiled options for the panel filter as I’m a big fan of the AEM dry flow stuff.

I read about the MAD intake/inlet and was curious if it had similar IAT as the stock box. The S2 rules allow intakes up to the turbo inlet and if it’s good for a few more hp without hurting IAT then I’d be interested. If it has the same heat soak issues as the other intakes then I might just stick with a panel filter.

for the panel filter, I’m guessing they’re all about the same and it’s just pick your favorite brand and don’t over oil it?

I chuckled as my intake muffler cap design for the stock box is just about done now too.

 

[razorlab]

Doing some reading about intake panel filters along with general intake stuff, it appears like a stock tune car with a panel filter is fine, but there might be other options for slightly more power. mostly it was me being annoyed there only seems to be oiled options as I’m a big fan of the AEM dry flow stuff.

I read about the MAD intake/inlet and was curious if it had similar IAT as the stock box. The S2 rules allow intakes up to the turbo inlet and if it’s good for a few more hp without hurting IAT then I’d be interested. If it has the same heat soak issues as the other intakes then I might just stick with a panel filter.

I chuckled as my intake muffler cap design is just about done now too.

Stock tune, don't even bother unless you want the turboski sound.

The BMC panel filter worked well when I had the stock airbox still.

 

[Subydude]

Stock tune, don't even bother unless you want the turboski sound.

The BMC panel filter worked well when I had the stock airbox still.

Don’t care a ton about sound. Was mostly looking to optimize inside the rule set and figured instead of $60 on a panel filter I didn't mind putting it toward a full intake instead assuming there was one that didn’t cause IAT issues. Building some heat shield and dropping weight was the main idea behind the intake muffler idea. I usually try to do simple things that make life easier for future me along with cleaning up the engine bay for better airflow and weight loss.

 

[razorlab]

Don’t care a ton about sound. Was mostly looking to optimize inside the rule set and figured instead of $60 on a panel filter I didn't mind putting it toward a full intake instead assuming there was one that didn’t cause IAT issues. Building some heat shield and dropping weight was the main idea behind the intake muffler idea. I usually try to do simple things that make life easier for future me along with cleaning up the engine bay for better airflow and weight loss.

Again, you won't see anything worthwhile on the power front but will on sound.

I use the MAD intake and fabbed up a heatshield since I track the car a lot.

 

[Levophed]

Looking for a second opinion on my logic here. I’ve got two sets of wheels:

• 19" OEMs for daily driving
• 18x10s for track use
  Both are running 275/35 tires, so the 18s have a smaller overall diameter, which drops the ride height slightly when I’m on track.

Last year I had a track alignment done while on the 19s:

• Front: 0 total toe, -3.1° camber
• Rear: 0.30° total toe in, -2.25° camber

At a recent track day, I had noticeable instability under hard braking the car would unpredictably dart left or right even though the wheel was straight. No obvious mechanical issues, so I'm trying to isolate the cause.

Could the lower ride height from the 18s have altered the alignment geometry enough (more toe-out or camber shift) to cause that instability? I’m assuming toe is the bigger factor here.

I want to get a proper alignment done on the track wheels, but I’m not hitting another event until late fall. If I align it now with the 18s on, then switch back to the 19s for street use, will that screw up the alignment enough to make it pointless? Or should I just wait and align it closer to the next event?

Appreciate any input, especially from anyone who’s tracked with a dual wheel setup like this.

 

[razorlab]

Alignment is done by the center point. 18 to 19 will make no difference.

 

[Levophed]

Alignment is done by the center point. 18 to 19 will make no difference.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this but what does alignment is done by the center point mean? I always thought that ride height affected the suspension geometry.

Always appreciate your expertise

 

[razorlab]

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this but what does alignment is done by the center point mean? I always thought that ride height affected the suspension geometry.

Always appreciate your expertise

Center point of the hub. The difference in diameter of 18 to 19 will make no noticeable difference. If you change ride height from suspension changes, then yes, because it changes the geometry.

Think about if you drive your car up on blocks. Does it change the suspension geometry? No.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Agree with Bryan. But consider an alignment if you inherently lowered the car or it “feels” different on track. It’s cheap.

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/car-alignment-after-lower

https://www.velgenwheels.com/blogs/blog/do-you-need-an-alignment-when-you-buy-new-wheels

https://www.supaquick.com/blog/do-bigger-wheels-affect-wheel-alignment

 

[Islindur]

BRAKES.

Any1 did rear brakes upgrade? I am waiting currently for my AP fronts but essex does offer a rear kit too (4pot caliper, bigger rotors). My rears will prob last this seasson max, so debating if i should go ahead and do rear AP too, for the more balanced cohesive package.
I got recommended to do rears while i am at it (and also not to coz the change is marginal) but curious about more opinions, esp if sum1 did front vs f+r upgrade...

 

[initialDnut]

BRAKES.

Any1 did rear brakes upgrade? I am waiting currently for my AP fronts but essex does offer a rear kit too (4pot caliper, bigger rotors). My rears will prob last this seasson max, so debating if i should go ahead and do rear AP too, for the more balanced cohesive package.
I got recommended to do rears while i am at it (and also not to coz the change is marginal) but curious about more opinions, esp if sum1 did front vs f+r upgrade...

I would imagine that if you only upgrade the fronts than the breaking balance may shift, but you may be able to adjust for that. Too much break on the front I believe will cause more understeer.

I just upgraded to Giro Disc 2 rotors with magic pads, but I upgraded fronts and rears.

 

[tomfree]

Agree with Bryan. But consider an alignment if you inherently lowered the car or it “feels” different on track. It’s cheap.

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/car-alignment-after-lower

https://www.velgenwheels.com/blogs/blog/do-you-need-an-alignment-when-you-buy-new-wheels

https://www.supaquick.com/blog/do-bigger-wheels-affect-wheel-alignment

I'm apples to apples with you. OEM 19s for the street, 18x10.5 with 275s on the track.

What Bryan said is correct - suspension geometry doesn't change between those 2 sets of rims/change in ride height. I had a friend beat this into my head a long time ago. Your scenario brings up a bunch of questions and potential issues, with alignment being a bit less likely of a cause than some others.

1> Is this a track that you are familiar with and have tracked the car there before? (i.e. is this inherent in the track surface, vs being your car)

2> What do your tires look like (odd wear patterns, etc.)?

3> Is the pull to one side consistent across Morning/Afternoon, Cold tires/Hot tires?

4> Had you picked up speed in that section, requiring you to brake harder, unload the rear a little more, etc.?

5> If this is a familiar track, what are the differences between this trip and the last time you were there? (tire, car setup, temp, weather)?

 

[Levophed]

Agree with Bryan. But consider an alignment if you inherently lowered the car or it “feels” different on track. It’s cheap.

https://www.motorbiscuit.com/car-alignment-after-lower

https://www.velgenwheels.com/blogs/blog/do-you-need-an-alignment-when-you-buy-new-wheels

https://www.supaquick.com/blog/do-bigger-wheels-affect-wheel-alignment

The car did have side to side unstability under hard braking that wasn't there before I switch to 18's. It might just be time to get an alignment anyways, been a year.

Might learn how to do it on my own and buy a string kit.

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