2023 MT Supra Clutch Replacement Options

[FLtrackdays]

I know what I'd chose for a road car, a ZF transmission.
Phil

A ZF transmission. I finished the sentence for ya ?

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[Funkjaw]

And so the life of the gearbox is much harder. Dual mass flywheels are designed to make the road driving experience nicer and provide mechanical support for the gearbox. They were conceived when turbocharged cars became designed and tuned to make torque at quite a lower rpm than in years past. Now for economy and emission reasons they are designed to be short shifted at a much lower rpm than previously to ride that low rpm torque wave and that's not ideal for the transmission. The DM flywheel help the transmission deal with the lower frequency of power pulses and torque delivery. Going to a single mass flywheel on a road car is not a good idea.
As an example if you used 6th gear on a Tremec T56 behind a GEN111 Chev engine below 100kph then eventually the gearbox will fail. The engine will pull the gear just fine but the gearbox doesn't like the harmonic influence at those low rpm at all. A DM flywheel is designed to make this scenario possible.
BTW a light flywheel will make zero more horsepower than a heavy one and the inertia saved by the lighter flywheel won't appreciably increase the acceleration of the car in fact it may actually be slower in acceleration from a standing start due to there being more difficulty in launching a car with a light flywheel compared to a heavier flywheel. The reduced flywheel mass and it's effect on engine inertia is very minor compared to the engines real work of accelerating the 1600kg mass of a car. As I've mentioned before a lot of modification benefits are primarily in the mind.
The biggest difference you will see from a single mass lighter flywheel is the engine will catch rpm faster on the downshifts throttle blips. It will also give you a physically rougher idle especially on a four cylinder engine, cause the gearbox to rattle at idle and create extra stress on the gearbox mechanically and make the car harder to launch from a standstill.
I know what I'd chose for a road car
Phil

This is very insightful. I have LW flywheels on all my other cars but they are also track or mostly track only cars. But I think you are right about a road car which is what my Supra primarily is - keeping the DM is the way to go.

 

[Hasan]

I guess Hasan was right after all

I wish I was not

 

[Hasan]

I was hoping the SM flywheel will reduce the rev hang between shifts.

I don't think its worth reducing the life of the transmission.

 

[Ace of Laces]

Hi all,

I just hit 25,000kms (15.5k Miles) on my 23' MT. Clutch is slipping terribly and it is tough to drive now.

I am considering the PTB Twin disc upgrade, but I am torn between getting the Dual mass flywheel and opting for the single.

I drive my car hard on weekends, but do not track it. I want to tune, but the most I'm looking to get into is E50. Is the single clutch loud and chattery?

 

[Hasan]

Here is all you need to know to make your choice. If I were to do it, I would choose the DMF.

And so the life of the gearbox is much harder. Dual mass flywheels are designed to make the road driving experience nicer and provide mechanical support for the gearbox. They were conceived when turbocharged cars became designed and tuned to make torque at quite a lower rpm than in years past. Now for economy and emission reasons they are designed to be short shifted at a much lower rpm than previously to ride that low rpm torque wave and that's not ideal for the transmission. The DM flywheel help the transmission deal with the lower frequency of power pulses and torque delivery. Going to a single mass flywheel on a road car is not a good idea.
As an example if you used 6th gear on a Tremec T56 behind a GEN111 Chev engine below 100kph then eventually the gearbox will fail. The engine will pull the gear just fine but the gearbox doesn't like the harmonic influence at those low rpm at all. A DM flywheel is designed to make this scenario possible.
BTW a light flywheel will make zero more horsepower than a heavy one and the inertia saved by the lighter flywheel won't appreciably increase the acceleration of the car in fact it may actually be slower in acceleration from a standing start due to there being more difficulty in launching a car with a light flywheel compared to a heavier flywheel. The reduced flywheel mass and it's effect on engine inertia is very minor compared to the engines real work of accelerating the 1600kg mass of a car. As I've mentioned before a lot of modification benefits are primarily in the mind.
The biggest difference you will see from a single mass lighter flywheel is the engine will catch rpm faster on the downshifts throttle blips. It will also give you a physically rougher idle especially on a four cylinder engine, cause the gearbox to rattle at idle and create extra stress on the gearbox mechanically and make the car harder to launch from a standstill.
I know what I'd chose for a road car
Phil

 

[zachattack917]

Here is all you need to know to make your choice. If I were to do it, I would choose the DMF.

+1 vote for DMF. Can take abuse but smooth as butter for those daily drives too. No brainer if you ask me. I’m also one of those blokes dailying his 6MT though, so there’s that.

 

[GRMan]

24 MT, no CVD. No issues with fast gear changing from 1st to 2nd.

May be GR will release a more hardcore clutch as an accessory for the Supra with the release of the higher power Final Edition in Japan and EU.

 

[Echo29]

Just to update after a couple thousand miles. Clutch is much better and had the clutch pedal bushing kit installed after 500 miles on the new clutch.

The increased pedal pressure does not do well with the plastic pedal. It was bending and causing issues for driving. The bushing kit has resolved that. Hopefully someone comes out with a metal pedal as an aftermarket option as well. I would definitely recommend the clutch pedal bushing kit from clutchmasters for any upgraded clutch.

Now that it's broken in, it still stiff but tolerable for daily driving. Been holding power just fine for me. I'm making marginally above stock power though.

I got the same clutch but after the install i have this click feeling in my clutch pedal when I press down. Did this happen for you too?

 

[lucky phil]

I got the same clutch but after the install i have this click feeling in my clutch pedal when I press down. Did this happen for you too?

Not all Supras have a plastic clutch pedal arm as described by @BananaBoi
If he has installed the Clutch masters pivot bushing kit they have an interesting material choice for a pin and an bush. There's not many pin and bush material combinations worse than stainless on stainless.

Phil

 

[tracer bullet]

Not all Supras have a plastic clutch pedal arm as described by @BananaBoi
If he has installed the Clutch masters pivot bushing kit they have an interesting material choice for a pin and an bush. There's not many pin and bush material combinations worse than stainless on stainless.

Phil

You had me checking my Rogue setup. Metal pins, but plastic bushings for that one.

 

[Echo29]

Im getting a rattle noise when the clutch is disengaged. Is that the LW flywheel?

 

[lucky phil]

Im getting a rattle noise when the clutch is disengaged. Is that the LW flywheel?

If it rattles with the clutch disengaged then it's the clutch. If it rattles with the clutch engaged then it's the gearbox. Both scenarios it is exacerbated or even a direct result of the LW flywheel. The DMF is there for a reason.
Phil

 

[tracer bullet]

Historically, on Eclipse's anyhow, when you hear a rattle with the clutch pushed in it was likely the throw-out bearing. If you've changed flywheels however then it is far more likely to be the issue. It's quite common with them and it's not exactly broken, just a side effect.

 

[lucky phil]

Historically, on Eclipse's anyhow, when you hear a rattle with the clutch pushed in it was likely the throw-out bearing. If you've changed flywheels however then it is far more likely to be the issue. It's quite common with them and it's not exactly broken, just a side effect.

Normally when the throw out bearing is shot it will just make a grumbling worn bearing sound and "maybe" some pedal vibration at a late stage when you depress the clutch pedal. Sometimes some squeaking as well. If it rattles then you've let it go to the point of insanity unless it's somehow been a faulty unit to start with. They normally give you some indication well before total failure.

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