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2023 MT Supra Clutch Replacement Options

Hasan

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I just got back from Laguna Seca last weekend after breaking-in a new Clutchmasters FX1000 twin disc with aluminum flywheel. I'm aware of the thread of people having had some issues with it so I was hesitant to run the setup. However, it was free. A shop offered to test something "new" from clutchmasters, so I agreed. Is it a new or upgraded version of their FX1000? No idea.

I did the standard/recommended 500 mile break-in with a majority of the driving being in the city. The clutch pedal felt a little stiffer but it wasn't too far off from stock. I also installed their bushing kit for the clutch pedal/master cylinder. I highly recommend this as OEM "pins: are plastic and are prone to fail/potentially snap under heavy pressure.

Had no issues during the track event. It performed well and held power with no slip. My post isn't intended to persuade anyone to buy or even try the FX1000. Do your research and make your own decision. Just wanted to add to yall's research data points.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It would be very helpful to know what changes they have made.
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iPan

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Hey folks- I installed a Uniclutch Track Edition on my Supra. So far 270 miles in and it's been great with OEM feel, and the great thing is I spent under a grand on the core + adapter needed to run it.

After breaking it in fully, I'll take it to the track and provide feedback.

Immediately after install, the pedal feel was about 10-20% lighter than OEM with an earlier bite point, but as the clutch continues to wear in, the pressure needed to press down the pedal is getting heavier and closer to OEM, and the bite point feels closer to OEM.


No weird noises, and power delivery is nice and smooth!
 

Hasan

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Hey folks- I installed a Uniclutch Track Edition on my Supra. So far 270 miles in and it's been great with OEM feel, and the great thing is I spent under a grand on the core + adapter needed to run it.

After breaking it in fully, I'll take it to the track and provide feedback.

Immediately after install, the pedal feel was about 10-20% lighter than OEM with an earlier bite point, but as the clutch continues to wear in, the pressure needed to press down the pedal is getting heavier and closer to OEM, and the bite point feels closer to OEM.


No weird noises, and power delivery is nice and smooth!

Do you have any "Dos and Dont's" for the install process.

Thanks
 

Mayday

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Wondering how you still feel about NVH/chatter increase on your setup now that you've put some distance on it? Asking because I've driven BMWs in the past that went to a single mass flywheel and the noise/chatter increase was very noticeable.
Sorry for the late reply, it's still the same since day one. I barely hear the chatter and sometimes when i stop after hard driving I can hear the chatter but isn't that noisy.
 

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Anyone feels unusual shifts from 2nd to 3rd like it feels pushing the shifter through a gate of gravel instead of a smooth slot?

PTB SMF clutch here with their Release bearing.
 

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Anyone feels unusual shifts from 2nd to 3rd like it feels pushing the shifter through a gate of gravel instead of a smooth slot?

PTB SMF clutch here with their Release bearing.
Is this a new feeling? How many miles on your PTB clutch?
 

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Going for the most expensive option first then?
Phil
If you're suggesting I advocate tearing it apart and throwing random parts at it with fingers crossed, no.

In my n=1 experience with a Scirocco looooong ago, this kind of behavior was due to a worn synchro. I believe there are ways of checking this, something along the lines of how you use the clutch pedal when shifting, you push it in multiple times during the shift sequence, something about releasing the friction disc from the clutch plate and if things are spinning when you shift (I have not "googled" this subject this morning).

It might be worth looking into if it's a viable check and free, or if symptoms of worn synchros seem to match up with what is being seen.
 

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If you're suggesting I advocate tearing it apart and throwing random parts at it with fingers crossed, no.

In my n=1 experience with a Scirocco looooong ago, this kind of behavior was due to a worn synchro. I believe there are ways of checking this, something along the lines of how you use the clutch pedal when shifting, you push it in multiple times during the shift sequence, something about releasing the friction disc from the clutch plate and if things are spinning when you shift (I have not "googled" this subject this morning).

It might be worth looking into if it's a viable check and free, or if symptoms of worn synchros seem to match up with what is being seen.
I'm just saying that bleeding is easy and costs nothing and MAY have an influence in the shift behaviour if it needs doing. Every gearbox is different even with gear selection. My gearbox shifts really nicely 1st to second for example where other complain but the 3rd to 4th can be a little baulky at times. So if your car is a bit marginal into 3rd gear then it might not tolerate a less than well bled clutch hydraulic system. In your particular case 3rd gear might be the "Canary in the mine" Costs nothing to try and you can eliminate it from the suspects. There is no special magic way to check a syncro without stripping the box. Signs in use are simply the faster you shift the baulkier it gets to where it will grind as it goes in. Shifting down without rev matching on will also load the syncro more than shifting up. Running "special oils" and heavier weight oils can also impede syncro performance and also materially affect the syncro materials on some gears and gearboxes that use carbon syncro rings. Syncros are basically small cone clutches and are somewhat sensitive to oil types. I've even seen manual gearboxes run with ATF instead of gear oil in them for specific reasons.
Phil
 
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Mayday

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Quick update with some more details:

I tested the shifter for around 5 minutes with the engine OFF, going through all the gears, and they all feel pretty much the same — just normal notchiness. Nothing about 2nd/3rd really stands out.

With the engine ON and the car not moving, it also feels basically the same.

The difference appears while driving. Shifting 2nd → 3rd and 3rd → 2nd feels like it requires noticeably more force to engage compared to the other gears.

I also tried shifting 2nd → neutral, waiting around 2 seconds, then selecting 3rd. It still requires some force. Interestingly, it seems to require more force with auto rev-match ON and less force with rev-match OFF.

For reference, I'm running the PTB twin-disc organic/organic clutch, single-mass flywheel, standard pressure plate, and PTB release bearing.

One more thing that might be relevant: I'm currently using Motul Gear 300 75W-90 in both the manual transmission and differential. Before that, I was using Motul Gear Competition 75W-140 in both. I changed to the 75W-90 non-LSD version thinking it would be less harsh and still offer better protection than the OEM fluid.

Now I'm wondering if the transmission oil could be contributing to the 2nd/3rd shift feel, especially since the OEM manual transmission fluid is MTF-LT-5.


Anyone with a 6MT Supra, especially with the PTB SMF/twin-disc setup, experienced something similar? I'm trying to figure out whether this is normal, fluid-related, PTB clutch/release-bearing related, or possibly something with the 2nd/3rd synchros.
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