Anyone install a Clutch-Stop for their MT?

[Eddy90]

This weekend, I chatted with the owner of a F30 340i with a MT, and he basically described the same issues regarding the 1-2 weird shifts. He hadn't heard of the CDV delete yet, and said he was going to investigate. However, he did mention that his 1 mod (the Clutch Stop), basically improved shifting speed and launching ability, specially 1-2nd gear.

He let me drive his car, and I first noticed that the shifter feel is eerily similar to my A90MT, with slightly less resistance (about 5-10%) and slightly less notchy-ness. Felt great and familiar, nonetheless.

Secondly, shifting from 1-2 was way faster, and the clutch engagement was much more "immediate" and smoother. Granted I don't know what the un-modded shifting is like.

I am curious if any other A90MT owners have thought about this and/or installed one of these?
I know we can swap our slaves with an E90 slave, so presumably a clutch-stop from a E90 might work for us ?

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[Chong]

You don't need to install the E90 slave in order to do the clutch delay valve delete-you should be able to just disconnect the line to the slave and carefully remove the o-ring and CDV from the existing slave cylinder.

I would recommend just doing the CDV delete instead of adding a clutch stop. It's a relatively easy process and doesn't cost anything. Additionally, you're not adding any risk of premature clutch wear down the line, since this clutch stop seems to mess with your clutch engagement point.

Shifting from 1-2 can be quicker and less jerky, from my experience with the CDV delete. I didn't notice a more "immediate" clutch engagement, since the bite point is still the same.

 

[FuzzyRev]

I'd also definitely advise against a 'clutch stop' and encourage the CDV delete procedure instead if you're that set on making a change.

How many miles are on your MTs so far? The sticky 1-2 shift gets much better over time as the parts wear-in together. I rolled over 4,000 miles this morning, and have noticed substantial improvement already, especially from 2,500 onward. I can't wait to feel how nice it'll be after 7,500-10,000!

 

[visbits]

I just swapped to the E9x slave and can tell you its a vast improvement over the delay valve setup. The slave is: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clutch-slave-cylinder-21526785964

Immediately noticed that engagement is actually in the pedal feel and not smoothed out after the fact... 1st gear in our cars is a pretty low ratio and taking off in 2nd gets rid of most that herky jerky feeling if you don't take 1st out to 3-4k.

Ripping gears is a much more pleasant engagement as well, I can totally see how the CDV setup would wear out a clutch quickly.

I'm at 1200 miles of urban driving with my car and several thousand shifts later the transmission does feel really nice.

 

[Eddy90]

You don't need to install the E90 slave in order to do the clutch delay valve delete-you should be able to just disconnect the line to the slave and carefully remove the o-ring and CDV from the existing slave cylinder.

I would recommend just doing the CDV delete instead of adding a clutch stop. It's a relatively easy process and doesn't cost anything. Additionally, you're not adding any risk of premature clutch wear down the line, since this clutch stop seems to mess with your clutch engagement point.

Shifting from 1-2 can be quicker and less jerky, from my experience with the CDV delete. I didn't notice a more "immediate" clutch engagement, since the bite point is still the same.

True, you can simply remove the CDV from the OEM ring instead of the full swap.

The clutch stop should technically be adjusted to prevent any change in clutch engagement point and premature wear. Effectively it should simply remove or reduce the "deadzone". It does seem very sketchy and could go horribly wrong if not done right.

Im glad simply doing the CDV delete vastly improves 1-2 shifts. I might just stop here lol.

 

[Eddy90]

I'd also definitely advise against a 'clutch stop' and encourage the CDV delete procedure instead if you're that set on making a change.

How many miles are on your MTs so far? The sticky 1-2 shift gets much better over time as the parts wear-in together. I rolled over 4,000 miles this morning, and have noticed substantial improvement already, especially from 2,500 onward. I can't wait to feel how nice it'll be after 7,500-10,000!

I'll do the CDV first and report the results. I was just curious if anyone had already tried it.

I am currently at 1500 miles. I'm glad the shift gets better with time!!
No indication of excessive clutch wear at your mileage? I know a lot of complaints have come about after 3k miles or so. Maybe they're dealing with a combination of issues leading to the premature clutch failure, and not just a delicate clutch?.

 

[kaj]

+1 on not doing the stop. I did one on a car and had to keep adjusting it as the clutch would wear. The stop didn't allow the fork and slave to move with wear, so I'd get clutch slippage.

 

[Eddy90]

I just swapped to the E9x slave and can tell you its a vast improvement over the delay valve setup. The slave is: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clutch-slave-cylinder-21526785964

Immediately noticed that engagement is actually in the pedal feel and not smoothed out after the fact... 1st gear in our cars is a pretty low ratio and taking off in 2nd gets rid of most that herky jerky feeling if you don't take 1st out to 3-4k.

Ripping gears is a much more pleasant engagement as well, I can totally see how the CDV setup would wear out a clutch quickly.

I'm at 1200 miles of urban driving with my car and several thousand shifts later the transmission does feel really nice.

Perfect! I opted for the slave swap. I was going to remove the CDV myself, but I was afraid of damaging the slave etc.
Do you feel like your 1-2 shifts are any faster? or is the best way to get off the line simply just to do it from 2nd?

 

[MA617M]

You don't need to install the E90 slave in order to do the clutch delay valve delete-you should be able to just disconnect the line to the slave and carefully remove the o-ring and CDV from the existing slave cylinder.

I would recommend just doing the CDV delete instead of adding a clutch stop. It's a relatively easy process and doesn't cost anything. Additionally, you're not adding any risk of premature clutch wear down the line, since this clutch stop seems to mess with your clutch engagement point.

Shifting from 1-2 can be quicker and less jerky, from my experience with the CDV delete. I didn't notice a more "immediate" clutch engagement, since the bite point is still the same.

Does it require drilling, or is it a simple removal of O-Ring and restrictor?

 

[Eddy90]

+1 on not doing the stop. I did one on a car and had to keep adjusting it as the clutch would wear. The stop didn't allow the fork and slave to move with wear, so I'd get clutch slippage.

yikes, does the clutch still not completely disengage a few inches after the bite point?
I figured if the clutch was still engaged, the shifter would lock out or grind?

 

[Chong]

Does it require drilling, or is it a simple removal of O-Ring and restrictor?

Do not drill the slave! It should be a very simple removal that you can accomplish with a small wood screw or a pick. You're just attempting to extract two objects from inside the slave-they should be able to come out very easily.
There's a youtuber by the name of "Fritz Ramos" that has a good CDV delete tutorial on a BMW F chassis. If you follow the same process, you should have no problems.

 

[MA617M]

Brilliant, thank you. I saw so much conflicting information. I'll check that out now. I've got a myriad of O-Ring picks so no dramas at all.

 

[Nocturnal]

I’ve also been interested in a clutch stop since the pedal travel is so long it makes me adjust my seat further up than I would normally. I think it’s a totally different situation as CDV that looks to improve shift quality vs pedal throw.

 

[visbits]

Guys the E90 slave is like $45... Just buy one. Lol

 

[kaj]

yikes, does the clutch still not completely disengage a few inches after the bite point?
I figured if the clutch was still engaged, the shifter would lock out or grind?

My car had a pull -type clutch so was opposite. Falling to fully disengage would be even worse, as you would kill synchros instead of just a clutch.

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