Brake problems 2024 Premium MT 5k miles ... too early?

[RedDog]

Have a 2024 Premium MT I picked up in late June 2024. 5,000 miles.
I drive it mostly for 50% surface road/ 50% freeway commute of less than 20 miles each way.

No track days. Not much hooning around and very little heavy brake use .

Started to get some vibration in front end when braking moderately about a month ago. Felt like my rotors were warped but I couldn't believe that they were, as I have not run this vehicle hard at all, other than some pulls on freeway on ramps and the like with no hard braking.

Took it into a dealer to have them look at my car and the Supra tech said that the rotors had pad material embedded in them and I would need to get them replaced. Also said that the rotors were showing signs of high heat and therefore no warranty coverage per service advisor.

I'm mystified on would cause something like this to happen? I haven't had problems like this with my FRS or GR86 in the past on the same commute. Should I have bedded in my brakes after taking delivery?

What should I have the dealer look at to see what the root cause of this would be? Calipers sticking, brake system malfunction of some sort?

Any thoughts appreciated to help me in discussions with Toyota service.

Edit: I bought the vehicle new with 10 miles on it.

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[tracer bullet]

I'd look up the procedure to bed-in brakes, and give it a try. It's free and it's worked for more than a few people I know 1st hand, and for me as well (in Colorado renting a car that had been driven in the mountains and had this same issue)

There's always a little pad material on the rotors, and it's good, but you want it to be even. Doing the bed-in procedure even though your brakes aren't new might take care of it.

Also, if this developed while you owned it, you might want to actually drive harder. Too little brake activity can lead to squealing, and maybe something like this as well?

 

[sup.dc2]

I'm pretty sure he bought it new?
warped rotors can also be caused by hot rotors being cooled quickly like submerging the wheels into standing water. drive through any puddles lately?

 

[lucky phil]

Pads improperly bedded originally I'd say and therefore uneven pad material deposited on the disk face. You can buy a ball hone to hone the surfaces and remove the uneven pad distribution.
https://au.jbtools.com/brush-resear...6KYPjsr1DxSjdGSr2xDei8hUhjDOMmxPsgU-Tybkl39TU
Phil

 

[tracer bullet]

I'm pretty sure he bought it new?

Yeah I see that now. I read it as being bought with 5000 miles on it. There was a comment before mine that suggested the previous owner tracked it, so I went with it. I think they deleted their comment LOL.

 

[Davo307]

Yeah I see that now. I read it as being bought with 5000 miles on it. There was a comment before mine that suggested the previous owner tracked it, so I went with it. I think they deleted their comment LOL.

Was my comment. And I read it the same way. That it was bought with 5,000 miles on it. Deleted my comment since it does nothing for the thread

 

[concept]

I had the same thing happen to my 2001 C5 front rotors. The dealership turned the rotors, but told me that the next time this happens, they would have to charge me for new rotors. Apparently, this was not uncommon. I ended up getting cryo-treated slotted rotors and after 30,000 miles they were still fine.
Currently, my Supra has almost 5000 miles on it and the rotors look good.

 

[Gabe]

Mine (brand new car) but with DTC60s did that on the track.

aggressive bedding did not help.

I have to change front rotors

 

[razorlab]

I had the same thing happen to my 2001 C5 front rotors. The dealership turned the rotors, but told me that the next time this happens, they would have to charge me for new rotors. Apparently, this was not uncommon. I ended up getting cryo-treated slotted rotors and after 30,000 miles they were still fine.

You owned a Corvette? Tell us more.

 

[Rocksandblues]

not warped. rebed brake pads. full stop

 

[BimmerGuy]

Bedding in the pads, and more importantly, driving (braking) properly will prevent this from happening again. The Supra has high performance brake pads (unlike the PO's previous cars) and so you need to be more aggressive when you use the brakes. That means, instead of (for example) when approaching a stop, you might start braking lightly 50 yards away and come to a very gradual stop as you were taught... wait until you're 25 yards away and brake firmly, for a shorter period of time. Look behind you first, natch, to make sure that the person behind you is not too busy texting.

If you are able to do any DIY, remove the caliper and rotor from the car and use 30 grit sandpaper to remove all of the unevenly distributed pad material from both sides of the rotor. Then bed-in the pads. Yes, that sounds horribly aggressive, but trust me, the rotors can take it.

 

[RedDog]

Thanks for the suggestions and insights folks. Will take them into account when driving with my new brake pads and rotors.

Convinced dealer to replace them under warranty (after a bit of lively discussion).

Takes a while to get things done when only one of the several certified Supra mechs are willing to work on the car. No lie.

Reddog

 

[BimmerGuy]

Takes a while to get things done when only one of the several certified Supra mechs are willing to work on the car. No lie.

Glad you got it taken care of! So, what's up with the techs/mechs, do you know?

 

[J29DB03]

So, what's up with the techs/mechs, do you know?

That’s some good food.

 

[RedDog]

Sounds like some of the certified Supra techs don't like working in the tight spaces in the Supra. I know they aren't as familiar with the car because they rarely work on them as well.

I had one Maintenance Manager at another Toyota location tell me he hated having Supra's come into his shop. He said working on the Supra ties up his best tech and 'they (Supras) are BMW's'. Needless to say, not taking my car into his shop.

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