DIY oil changes and checking the oil level

[concept]

That's an understatement.

I personally like and have used Mobil 1 for decades. I don't see any reason I wouldn't continue to do so.

Sometimes for jollies I like to say things that "rub people the wrong way" but I don't want to get banned here... I think I will hold off from the "oil debate" thread postings!

I way overthink everything. An attorney told me once that I get "paralysis from over-analysis". He also told me I should have been an attorney.

Now if it were I who was driving even fewer miles back home from the dealership, I'd see if they or you can get at least the bumper, hood, and fenders PPFed before you leave. Also, the breakin mileage is 1200, with engine speed not to exceed 4500 rpm and vehicle speed not to exceed 100 mph. Vary your speed while on long highway trips - no constant speed for extended periods of time.

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[rottmore]

Mobil one does not make an approved oil for your GR Supra. That's all I'll say about that.

Now if it were I who was driving even fewer miles back home from the dealership, I'd see if they or you can get at least the bumper, hood, and fenders PPFed before you leave. Also, the breakin mileage is 1200, with engine speed not to exceed 4500 rpm and vehicle speed not to exceed 100 mph. Vary your speed while on long highway trips - no constant speed for extended periods of time.

 

[J29DB03]

To throw another opinion out there before the Blob takes this one over too, I always fill with 6.5 qts and my raw value reads as 97mm in Bimmerlink.

 

[Hausenheimer]

Now if it were I who was driving even fewer miles back home from the dealership, I'd see if they or you can get at least the bumper, hood, and fenders PPFed before you leave. Also, the breakin mileage is 1200, with engine speed not to exceed 4500 rpm and vehicle speed not to exceed 100 mph. Vary your speed while on long highway trips - no constant speed for extended periods of time.

I'm not too sure I will ever PPF the car. I question how long it lasts and if the paint will be damaged on removal/re-installation.

I really don't like the verbiage about the break-in, I wish it were MORE specific. I have an inquiry into to Toyota for this reason. BTW I do understand it is 1,200miles. I kind of suspect I will actually hit 1,200 on my 1,100 mile journey because of misc driving at my destination cities.

I fully understand that the manual says to stay under 4500 rpm and not to exceed 100MPH and you should also vary engine load (not hold constant), which leaves a lot to be interpreted in my opinion. I planned on taking backroads all the way home, but feel like that may be overkill and not really what they intend. I've also read about themal shock and feel like at highway speeds and/or on back country highway... my car will stay much cooler than would thermally shock it when I turn it off. My real question is, should I run a brand new car that is in break-in period for hours and hours at a time, like 4-5? If that is inherently ok, how long should I allow it to cool for or should I not allow it to fully cool? Would it be better to run maybe 8-10 hours (or 4-5) and let it cool for a few hours while I take a nap and then continue to keep driving more? Basically, I am asking in the eyes of an automobile engineer (which BTW do we have any of those here?), what is the PERFECT break-in? I have researched the internet for days on this topic and don't feel like I have come up with any trustworthy answers. Is the manual's vagueness the answer to my questions, in that, since they simply say not to do those three things; vary load on engine, 4500 max rpm, and 100 MPH max speed... all of the other factors I am looking for clarity on don't really matter?

 

[Hausenheimer]

To throw another opinion out there before the Blob takes this one over too, I always fill with 6.5 qts and my raw value reads as 97mm in Bimmerlink.

So basically, as a guy who likes to slightly short fill a car, maybe I should start with 6.25 qts?

I think I should look into one of those Bimmerlinks. I'm very curious to see if my scan tool will display this information. It is not current to 2026 models, but I have a feeling the 2024 or 2025 year models sensors and engines are probably the same enough if not identical for the raw data being read.

 

[Rensuhlo]

So I have two lingering questions after reading through this thread:


1. What kind of oil should I be using?

2. What the fuck is a litre.

 

[Funkjaw]

I always dump in 7 qts every oil change. I'm pretty sure I get nearly every drop back when I've drained it to since I send it back in for credit to fcpeuro and always been credited back my full purchase each time so far

Is there a particular kit you buy off fcpeuro? Or do you buy each component individually to customize your oil change...

 

[DR.COKE]

Did you need a guide book the first time you was with a lady? Same with this car, enjoy the ride home as your not gonna stay below 4500 RPM and below 100mph while cruising at a constant Speed. Doesn't matter if your engine has exact 6.8 liter or 6.2, if your oil leveler is working the car will tell you to add oil. If your car burns oil the car will tell you to add more oil. Don‘t overthink, it’s just a little above a normal car.

 

[razorlab]

So basically, as a guy who likes to slightly short fill a car, maybe I should start with 6.25 qts?

I think I should look into one of those Bimmerlinks. I'm very curious to see if my scan tool will display this information. It is not current to 2026 models, but I have a feeling the 2024 or 2025 year models sensors and engines are probably the same enough if not identical for the raw data being read.

I wouldn't recommend short filling the car. If you are uncomfortable with overfilling, just put the exact specified amount in, which is 6.5 Liters/6.9 Quarts.

2026 Supra is the same as 2021-2025.

I fully understand that the manual says to stay under 4500 rpm and not to exceed 100MPH and you should also vary engine load (not hold constant), which leaves a lot to be interpreted in my opinion. I planned on taking backroads all the way home, but feel like that may be overkill and not really what they intend. I've also read about themal shock and feel like at highway speeds and/or on back country highway... my car will stay much cooler than would thermally shock it when I turn it off. My real question is, should I run a brand new car that is in break-in period for hours and hours at a time, like 4-5? If that is inherently ok, how long should I allow it to cool for or should I not allow it to fully cool? Would it be better to run maybe 8-10 hours (or 4-5) and let it cool for a few hours while I take a nap and then continue to keep driving more? Basically, I am asking in the eyes of an automobile engineer (which BTW do we have any of those here?), what is the PERFECT break-in? I have researched the internet for days on this topic and don't feel like I have come up with any trustworthy answers. Is the manual's vagueness the answer to my questions, in that, since they simply say not to do those three things; vary load on engine, 4500 max rpm, and 100 MPH max speed... all of the other factors I am looking for clarity on don't really matter?

Modern engines are already broken in from the factory. The suggested break in period is for everything else (brakes, clutches, etc) and to make sure if anything goes wrong, it's when you aren't pushing the car. It's basically lawyer copy.

However, there is no shame in going by the book and "breaking it in" as the manual suggests.

For built engines that aren't broken in, the best is to vary rpm, lots of decel to get the engine into vacuum, then some throttle, rinse and repeat. This helps accelerate the piston rings breaking in and sealing correctly.

 

[Vertex]

Is there a particular kit you buy off fcpeuro? Or do you buy each component individually to customize your oil change...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-oil-change-kit-5w-30-liqui-moly-11428583898-lm

This is the kit I buy. If I tracked the car more or it was more of a dedicated track car I should say I would probably run different oil but this does the job

 

[J29DB03]

So basically, as a guy who likes to slightly short fill a car, maybe I should start with 6.25 qts?

I think I should look into one of those Bimmerlinks. I'm very curious to see if my scan tool will display this information. It is not current to 2026 models, but I have a feeling the 2024 or 2025 year models sensors and engines are probably the same enough if not identical for the raw data being read.

I wouldn’t go that short. The way I see it, if you fill it anywhere between 6.5 to 7 qts it’ll be just fine. If you want to short it I can only say through experience I’ve never had any problems going with 6.5 qts.

Shit, and for reference because it’s probably important to note, I only drive it around 3000 miles a year. If I drove more would I have to top it off, very likely.

 

[concept]

I'm not too sure I will ever PPF the car. I question how long it lasts and if the paint will be damaged on removal/re-installation.

I really don't like the verbiage about the break-in, I wish it were MORE specific. I have an inquiry into to Toyota for this reason. BTW I do understand it is 1,200miles. I kind of suspect I will actually hit 1,200 on my 1,100 mile journey because of misc driving at my destination cities.

I fully understand that the manual says to stay under 4500 rpm and not to exceed 100MPH and you should also vary engine load (not hold constant), which leaves a lot to be interpreted in my opinion. I planned on taking backroads all the way home, but feel like that may be overkill and not really what they intend. I've also read about themal shock and feel like at highway speeds and/or on back country highway... my car will stay much cooler than would thermally shock it when I turn it off. My real question is, should I run a brand new car that is in break-in period for hours and hours at a time, like 4-5? If that is inherently ok, how long should I allow it to cool for or should I not allow it to fully cool? Would it be better to run maybe 8-10 hours (or 4-5) and let it cool for a few hours while I take a nap and then continue to keep driving more? Basically, I am asking in the eyes of an automobile engineer (which BTW do we have any of those here?), what is the PERFECT break-in? I have researched the internet for days on this topic and don't feel like I have come up with any trustworthy answers. Is the manual's vagueness the answer to my questions, in that, since they simply say not to do those three things; vary load on engine, 4500 max rpm, and 100 MPH max speed... all of the other factors I am looking for clarity on don't really matter?

Where details are not given, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Follow the book and you and your car will be fine. I decided before I bought my new Supra that after reading pages of comments from people here, many saying they drove from the dealership to a racetrack to beat the heck out their cars, that I would never buy used unless I knew the previous owner well. Yes, purposely-built racing engines are dynoed at high loads/rpms, but those engines aren't expected to last 100,000+ miles, either.

There are a couple of great PPFs, such as EXpel and STEK. I 've had 2/3 or my car protected with STEK PPF for 15 months. Without it, I'm sure I'd have more than few chip voids in the number and hood.
Toyota will change my oil/oil filter for two years. After that, I may do my own changes as I have done with other cars since 1980. Oil analysis will reveal how well factory oil is doing.

 

[lucky phil]

I'm not too sure I will ever PPF the car. I question how long it lasts and if the paint will be damaged on removal/re-installation.

I really don't like the verbiage about the break-in, I wish it were MORE specific. I have an inquiry into to Toyota for this reason. BTW I do understand it is 1,200miles. I kind of suspect I will actually hit 1,200 on my 1,100 mile journey because of misc driving at my destination cities.

I fully understand that the manual says to stay under 4500 rpm and not to exceed 100MPH and you should also vary engine load (not hold constant), which leaves a lot to be interpreted in my opinion. I planned on taking backroads all the way home, but feel like that may be overkill and not really what they intend. I've also read about themal shock and feel like at highway speeds and/or on back country highway... my car will stay much cooler than would thermally shock it when I turn it off. My real question is, should I run a brand new car that is in break-in period for hours and hours at a time, like 4-5? If that is inherently ok, how long should I allow it to cool for or should I not allow it to fully cool? Would it be better to run maybe 8-10 hours (or 4-5) and let it cool for a few hours while I take a nap and then continue to keep driving more? Basically, I am asking in the eyes of an automobile engineer (which BTW do we have any of those here?), what is the PERFECT break-in? I have researched the internet for days on this topic and don't feel like I have come up with any trustworthy answers. Is the manual's vagueness the answer to my questions, in that, since they simply say not to do those three things; vary load on engine, 4500 max rpm, and 100 MPH max speed... all of the other factors I am looking for clarity on don't really matter?

The whole idea of PPF is it's a sacrificial layer and can be removed. The safest way is with a steamer to heat the film and glue and remove it slowly not just tear it off. You're overthinking the running in. Just drive it as you normally would and vary the rpm and load. Don't worry about heat cycling it either. The only thing you're running in is the piston rings and they're 90% done out of the factory or 100% done by the PD guys, lol.

Phil

 

[jmikes]

Imagine if BMW just paid the extra $3.50 to put an oil dipstick into the B58...

 

[tracer bullet]

Random note, 6.5 liters is 6.9 qts. When filling just be sure you're looking at the right units and how your oil is measured in the jugs you're buying it in. I don't foresee anything catastrophic if you get it wrong people overfill intentionally for track, and it'll warn you if it's too far under) but still suggest paying attention to it.

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