GR Supra 101: Routes to big power

[D3ad_Hand]

Since the forums are ever more active and new people are getting their Supra's I thought I'd make this thread a simple yet very informative way to start out modding your Supra and lessen the load on questions asked so frequently yet answered so simply.

The thread will be separated into the ECU situation, Basis of power, Modding without tunning, JB4, JB+, Modding with Tunning, MHD vs BM3, Fueling, Cooling, Certain power spike mods, Turbo upgrade, Routes to 500 600 and 700 whp, The order of mods you should get, FAQ's, and Two weeks section(incoming parts, or updates).

Notes:

• Please if I have any misinformation do inform me and I will edit the thread.
• If you would like me to add a piece/category of information relevant to the post and or a thread please let me know.
• As time goes on and updates occur I will edit the thread as well.
• I will quote other users and tag them.
• I will also link threads and websites for further information on certain topics.
• I'm gonna have an FAQ section after seeing a reoccurring question that people have
• The fuel is based on 93 PON / 98 RON
• I don't like using terms like "Stage 1" and "Stage 2".

IMPORTANT READ BEFORE YOU CONTINUE

• ECU situation:

As it is stands now 2020 Supras can simply be bench unlocked by anyone basically. If your Supra is 2020 you're fine please continue the thread if not please keep reading. Any ECU produced after June 2020 is a locked ecu it can not be bench unlocked and has to be shipped to Finland for it to be unlocked. As of now, only one company has unlocked the ECU which is Femto (not a full unlock will go into details later).However, some early production 2021 Supras have ECUs that can be bench unlocked, this is because they were produced with ECUs predating June 2020.

• How to check if your ECU is locked:

If you want to check which unlock you need you should attach an OBD2 adapter to your car and connect it to your phone. You can check if your car needs a bench to unlock or a Femto unlock by simply downloading's MHD or BM3 and connecting to the car and checking. It will tell you what unlock you need. there are multiple ways to connect to your car's OBD2 adapter. First is wireless adapters like MHD Univeral Wifi Adaptor or other adapters like kies motorsports and BM3's adapter as well (there are cheaper options). The second is buying an OBD2 adapter to ethernet, and then an ethernet to iPhone adapter. HOWEVER, MAKE SURE IT IS COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR PHONE AND THE MHD OR BM3 APP. SOME WIRELESS ADAPTERS AND ETHERNET ADAPTERS DO NOT WORK MAKE SURE THEY WORK.

IF YOUR ECU IS LOCKED READ THIS:

So now you have 2 routes to choose either a Femto unlock or JB4 a piggyback tune I will explain both.

• JB4:

According to BurgerMotorsports "The JB4 is a programmable computer that attaches between the ECU and vehicle sensors allowing it to adjust your vehicle’s tuning by tapping into areas of the factory flash mapping that are not normally available." Basically a piggyback tune. Of course, it can never mount to a full-on custom tune. However, it is possible to have a custom JB4 map. It will squeeze out more power than the preexisting tunes and run smoother. One of the best people in the business for JB4s is @Jesse DaBears. You can run methanol and upgrade your turbo even with a JB4. However, it will not be the same power figures as the full-on custom tunes of BM3 or MHD. However, it's way cheaper and inexpensive to go this route. You can definitely reach 500whp on a JB4 easily. I will get on to those methods later on.

• Femto Unlock:

As for the Femto unlock do keep in mind that it is a partial unlock, by a partial unlock I mean calibration tuning. "In the context of tuning a car's Electronic Control Unit (DME/ECU), the term "calibration tunes only" refers to the process of modifying or adjusting specific calibration parameters within the ECU to improve the vehicle's performance, fuel efficiency, or drivability. This means that the tuning service being offered focuses on making changes to the ECU's settings, rather than offering a complete custom tune or modifying the car's hardware.

"Calibration tunes generally involve adjusting parameters such as air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, and boost levels to optimize the engine's performance. This may be done by a professional tuner or through the use of an aftermarket software that can access and modify the DME/ECU's settings. " - @a90fresh - https://www.supramkv.com/threads/how-to-do-femto-supra-partial-unlock.16194/page-3

However, you do need to ship your ECU to Finland for a about a week give or take. As of right now, the only company which does a partial unlock on ECUs is Femto there are no other companies that provide this service. However, there are some garages/companies which will ship the ECU for you as a package. For example, buying BM3 or MHD license + shipping off your ECU. I would advise anyone who is shipping their ECU to go through these companies. So that your ECU makes it back in a week or so, and to so that your ECU does not get lost in shipping etc etc. Also they will provide periodic updates. I will tag some of them.

• Full Unlock / EcuTek / Femto:

As of right now EcuTek is not provided on ECUs past June 2020. This is not a problem on Femto's side, but rather EcuTek's side. They need to update their kit to be compatible with ECUs past June 2020. There is a fix to this, but it is expensive, but the best and only option currently. The workaround for the partial unlock is buying another ECU predating June 2020, and cloning it. This means copying everything over from the ECU past June 2020 to the ECU predating June 2020(this is just a simple explanation). That way it is a full unlock and you can have all the fueling mods you want and EcuTek if you prefer it over MHD, BM3, etc. However, even if your ECU is post June 2020 you can still run fueling mods which I will go into details later on. I will link a thread that has the BMW ECU's compatible with the Supra which are pre June 2020.

Threads and useful links on JB4 / Femto / ECU status:
JB4 vs Unlocked Tune: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/jb4-vs-unlocked-tune.15375/#post-237975
How to do Femto Supra partial unlock?: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/how-to-do-femto-supra-partial-unlock.16194/page-3#post-273185
Femto current unlocking status: https://willmy062020plusecugotorussia.com/

Basis of power for your Supra:

• Modding without tuning:

As for this route you can go with catted downpipes. Something like Active Autowerke or AMS, but not all catted downpipes guarantee no CEL. Just make sure the downpipe of your choice doesn't throw a CEL. Keep in mind that you can go catless without tuning, but CEL will come up. However, your car will run without issues even with a CEL. You can install an intake for turbo noises or maybe a catback for better-sounding Supra. It's all up to you. Do keep in mind throwing mods at your Supra and hoping it gives the same power as a tuned one is unrealistic. It will free up some horsepower, but not the same as a tune.

• JB4:

If your ECU is locked and don't want to go through the hassle of shipping your ECU to Femto, this is your best option. With it comes around 8 maps, but realistically you'll only use 2-3. Map 2 gives you +4psi over boost, and map 3 gives you +6psi over boost. The third map is map 6 a custom tune. You can get a custom tune from one of the best tuners in the business @Jesse DaBears. This would result in an increase in power while being smooth at the same time. You can reach 500whp on JB4's it is possible.

Dp + Jesse tune + meth + e40: 500 - 510 whp

Threads on JB4s:
JB4 Custom Map 93 Octane: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/jb4-custom-map-93-octane.15483/
Which jb4 map to use?: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/which-jb4-map-to-use.16623/
Seeking more info on JB4 Map 6 tuning: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/seeking-more-info-on-jb4-map-6-tuning.16759/
E Blend Jb4 Questions: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/e-blend-jb4-questions.16307/
Meth + JB4: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/meth-jb4.15557/

• JB+:

Another route if your ECU is locked is JB+. and as you guessed from the name it's the smaller brother of JB4 or so to say. It is cheaper and way easier to install. According to BurgerMotorsports " is a quick and simple way to add a few HP with minimal cost and minimal installation effort. Something that anyone can buy, install in under a minute, and really feel from the driver's seat." It adds 4.5 psi boost over stock. However, with JB+ there is no custom tuning or map switching. And according to BMS "providing gains up to 30 wheel horsepower and 40 wheel torque on the B48 motor and up to 40 wheel horsepower and 50 wheel torque on the B58 motor." Which should be taken with a grain of salt. I would still recommend going for a JB4 it has more options and provides more power and better management of that power. Also, BMS has a certain time period where you can exchange your JB+ for JB4 you just need to pay the difference. However, if you want a good amount of power for a relatively cheap price JB+ is the way to go.

Threads on JB+:
B58 JB Plus Quick Install Tuner: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/b58-jb-plus-quick-install-tuner.8241/

• Modding with tuning:

• MHD VS BM3:

This has been discussed so many times. It's all down to preference and the tuners. I will link some threads to help, but I reiterate again that it's literally all down to your preference and your tuner's preference. Do keep in mind that some features on BM3 are not provided on MHD and vice versa. However, MHD is catching up now since they released MHD+, but MHD+ is still for Supras pre dating June of 2020. While BM3 has CustomROM for Supras post June of 2020.

Threads on MHD and BM3:
BM3 CustomROM is Ready!: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/bm3-customrom-is-ready.17785/
MHD Flasher For 2020+ A90 Supra Discussion: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/mhd-flasher-for-2020-a90-supra-discussion.2524/
Bm3 vs mhd: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/bm3-vs-mhd.15450/
MHD VS BOOTMOD: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/mhd-vs-bootmod.17532/#post-274285
JB4/MHD BEF vs Ecutek (Post 6/20 car): https://www.supramkv.com/threads/jb4-mhd-bef-vs-ecutek-post-6-20-car.12778/

• Bolt-ons:

If you want to just squeeze some power out of your car have a bit more of smoother tune to it. Go for MHD or BM3 ots maps. You will feel the power and you will fly under the radar. It's good power, but doesn't change a whole lot.

Down pipe: The best thing you can do to your car and the first thing you should do is get a Down pipe. It is the biggest restriction you can get rid off, by running a catless down pipe. A big power bump.

Charge pipe: Don't get a charge pipe unless you're running a bigger turbo or running more boost. Factory charge pipe should hold up with no problems.

Exhaust: You won't need an exhaust unless your making serious power. At around 600-700 whp people opt in for an exhaust, accompanying the bigger turbo. However you can run an exhaust if you want a better sounding supra.

Intake: As for the intake you will never need it, even if you're making around 700whp. You will never need to run intake, but you can if you want more turbo noises. The only reason you will be getting an intake would be for the noises, never for performance.

• Fueling:

Ethanol fuel: If you don't know what ethanol is, its basically an alternative fuel source. People use ethanol because it has a lot more octane than pump gas. More octane means more power. E85 is what's typically used, which is fuel that is purely ethanol. You might hear of E30, E40, E50 all the way up to E85.

"The Exx notation only indicates the ethanol percentage of the fluid by volume. The octane is different. Most sources place E85 at 105 octane (using United States AKI definition of octane). Mix with 93 at E10, you get: E30 = 96.2 octane, E40 = ~98, E50 = 99 octane, E60 = 101 octane and so on." - @Thraxbert

E30 and E40 contain less octane rather than for example E60 or E70 which contain more octane. If you're thinking about running some ethanol get a custom tune first so that the car can extract all the power given to it through the ethanol. Also, it would be a good idea to run an fuel sensor to know how much ethanol content is in your tank if you're doing the mixing of pump gas and E85.

Port injection (explanation): Port injection from the name it self is injecting more fuel from the ports of the engine. Air being sucked into the engine goes through the intake manifold and into the ports of the engine. Here is where port injection kits come in a plate will be sandwiched between the intake manifold ports and the engine ports. This plate acts like a spacer between the two and its hollow in some parts allowing injectors injecting fuel into the engine. Please note that you need a charge pipe for this, because as I said the plate acts like a spacer and will push your intake manifold a bit out of place. The stock charge pipe will not fit. An aftermarket one that can be adjusted will fit. Do keep in mind that port injection is safer and provides more power to a system than a meth kit.

Port injection (Pre June 2020): If your ECU is Pre June 2020 Port injection would be easier. As it is right now EcuTek and MHD+ both have reflex integration i.e you would not need an injector controller like MOTIV reflex.

Port injection (Post June 2020): If your ECU is Post June 2020 Port injection is a little more complicated. Unlike MHD+ and EcuTek there is no reflex integration for these ECU's. You would have to resort to getting an injector controller like MOTIV reflex.

Meth kits: Same idea as port injection but you're injecting meth. However you inject from a different place. Based on the meth kit you're buying you might need a charge pipe or you might not. Some kits inject right at the throttle body. Here you wont need a new charge pipe. Others kits inject from a methanol bung on aftermarket charge pipes. So just make sure the kit you want has what you want.

Quotes on Meth and E blends:
"Meth injection and port injection are not interchangeable (a lot of fast cars use both). The fuel systems themselves are not interchangeable.

Meth injection leaning out the outside cylinders isn't really true. If the methanol is atomized into the air, all of the air that passes the meth jet will become saturated. Of course, that isn't all the way true; you shouldn't rely on methanol for fueling unless you really understand what's happening in the car.

You're correct in that port meth is better than TB or chargepipe meth.

Don't spray race fuel, ethanol, or anything through a water meth system. Meth is hard enough on the car, and there's no need to pump race gas or ethanol through it. There are better ways to do that.

Port Injection is much safer."

"For 99% of cars, you don't need meth if you have ethanol. Meth for bolt-on cars, stock turbo/stock frame turbos is just an octane booster. Ethanol is more than sufficient for this." - @zrk.

Low Pressure Fuel Pump: You might need a LPFP(Low pressure fuel pump) for older BMW's with n series engines. However the LPFP on the B58 should hold up to 700 hp. You shouldn't worry about the fuel pump until your making big power.

Injectors: Not necessary as well unless you're pushing 600 to 700 hp.

High Pressure Fuel Pump: Never necessary. Port injection is better.

Flex Fuel: The solution to running E blends or other types of fuel is a flex fuel. It checks the gas tank and adjust the car performance accordingly. Which means no map switching or emptying gas tanks before running another type of fuel.

"We really mean we’ve created a solution that adapts to the fuel mixture in your tank and adjusts your performance accordingly! This means no more worrying about which map you need to be on, no more running your tank to empty before switching fuels, and no more need to concern yourself with “timing” your fill ups to avoid a) running out of gas, and b) ensuring there’s an Ethanol station close by to make sure you won’t find yourself in the situation where you’re “forced” back into the pumpgas map, simply due to the lack of readily available Ethanol when you need it (as so many of our customers have found themselves in)." - @visconti

Videos on B58 Fueling:
HPFP Upgrade: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/hpfp-upgrade.17657/#post-283381
Guide to B58 Fueling Upgrades:


Port Injection or Bigger HPFP? Which one is right for your B58:

Port Injection or Meth Injection - Is meth safe on the B58?:

• Cooling:

Note: I always believe the more cooling you have the better. Get as much as cooling as possible. Even though they preferable, they are not compulsory.

Heat Exchangers / Oil Coolers / Auxiliary Radiator: When running more boost, multiple mods, or even a bigger turbo, it's preferable to run more coolers from heat exchangers to oil coolers and radiators. If your taking your supra to a drag race / track or just beating the hell out of it you try to keep temps as low as possible. As for people that don't do that as much but live in more humid and hotter areas, it's better to have these mods.

"When running large amounts or boost or even moderate boost on long track sessions cooling is one of the most important aspects of creating and sustaining power. So a higher capacity and more efficient heat exchanger is a no brainer." - @Twisted Tuning

Intake Manifold: Intake Manifold is the manifold where air get sucked in and cooled before going into the engine. If you're worried about cooling this is the best way to cool your IAT's (intake air temps). This is just about the best thing you could do as far as cooling mods go. However, they are expensive as hell. If you have that kind of money to spend definitely get one 100%. If you're pushing 600-700hp you would need one. There are some rare instances where the stock intake manifold cracked since it is plastic. However, you should be fine they are rare instances after all.

Threads on cooling:
A90 Supra Heat Exchanger List & Specifications: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/a90-supra-heat-exchanger-list-specifications.11113/
Intake Manifolds: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/intake-manifolds.9182/
Blew up stock Intake Manifold/Intercooler: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1699735

• Necessary mods at certain power spikes:

Some components of the Supra need to be changed out at certain power figures and they are as follows.

I do need a little help with these. If you know other components please let me know to update the thread.

Fuel Pump:
"Low-Pressure Fuel pump: Full E or Port Injection
High-Pressure Fuel pump: Never needed. There is a rumor of an "upgraded" pump coming; it won't be necessary- do port injection instead" - @zrk
LPFP: 650whp give or take.
HPFP: Go with port injection, better, safer, and more powerful.

Turbo: 550ish whp

Exhaust: Should be fine with a factory turbo. If you're planning on making big power then get a straight pipe or completely delete the exhaust

Charge pipe: If you're planning on getting a methanol kit, a turbo upgrade, port injection, or upgraded intake manifold get one.

Engine: 800 whp
"This is debatable. There are 1000hp cars on the stock motor, but they don't last." - @zrk.

Transmission: 650 - 700 whp // 600 - 650 ft-lbs of torque
"600 ft-lbs of torque. You're playing with fire after that. Torque can be limited in the tune, so it's not required immediately." - @zrk.

Intake Manifold: 700 whp. It's not about whp but more about boost, you just don't want the plastic intake manifold to crack, it will crack if you're running more boost.

• Turbo upgrades:

The chart below is taken from the thread "Hybrid turbo sizes": https://www.supramkv.com/threads/hybrid-turbo-sizes.15424/
A big thank you to @razorlab for putting together an amazing list.

OEM
Compressor inducer: 50mm / 6 blade
Turbine exducer: 50mm / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating: 550hp

CTS
New cast compressor and turbine housing.
Compressor inducer: 66mm? / 11 blade
Turbine exducer: 68mm? / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating: 900hp

DAW Ultra Flow
New cast compressor and turbine housing.
Compressor inducer: 66mm / 9 blade
Turbine exducer: mm? / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating: 700hp+

Remnant Performance 65 Omega
New cast compressor and turbine housing
Compressor inducer: 65.4mm / 9 blade
Turbine exducer: 63mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating: 950hp

Alibaba G30-900
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 62mm / 9blade
Turbine exducer: 55mm / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating: 800

Pure900
waiting incoming information.

Pure850
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 62mm / 7blade
Turbine exducer: ??mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating: 800hp???

Pure800
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 62mm / 7blade
Turbine exducer: 62mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating: 750hp???

Pure700
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 62mm / 9blade
Turbine exducer: 58mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating: 700hp???

TTE
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 63mm / 7 blade
Turbine exducer: ??mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating: 600hp+

Tomioka TR750
OEM turbine housing, bored out. New cast compressor housing
Compressor inducer: 59mm / 6 blade
Turbine exducer: OEM? / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating: 750hp

Alibaba G30-770
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 58mm / 9blade
Turbine exducer: 55mm / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating: 650

Driftmotion stage 3
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 57mm / 6 blade
Turbine exducer: 57mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating:???

Driftmotion stage 2
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 57mm / 6 blade
Turbine exducer: OEM? / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating:???

Driftmotion stage 1
OEM compressor and turbine housing, bored out
Compressor inducer: 54mm / 6 blade
Turbine exducer: OEM? / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating:???

Forced Performance Green
New cast compressor housing, reuse your OEM turbine housing
Compressor inducer: ??mm / 6 blade
Turbine exducer: OEM SIZE (50mm) - UHF Aero / 10 blade
Claimed HP rating:???

Vargas GC
New cast compressor housing, reuse your OEM turbine housing
Compressor inducer: 58mm / 9 blade
Turbine exducer: OEM (50mm)
Claimed HP rating: 600hp

Vargas GC-Mid
New cast compressor and turbine housing
Compressor inducer: 58mm / 9 blade
Turbine exducer: 55mm
Claimed HP rating: 650hp

Vargas GC+
New cast compressor and turbine housing
Compressor inducer: 68mm / 9 blade
Turbine exducer: 62mm / 9 blade
Claimed HP rating: 800hp

• Routes to 500 600 and 700 whp:

Note: I would like to mention some power figures of OTS maps.

OTS map stage 1 + no mods: 380 - 400 whp

OTS map stage 1 + no mods + e30: 400 - 420 whp

OTS map stage 2 + Downpipe: 400 - 420 whp

OTS map stage 2 + Downpipe + e30: 420 - 440 whp

Quotes:
"We went uncatted but intake + uncatted DP (we also did the chargepipe but that's negligible), we did 417/519 but who knows what that would make on 3 different dynos. We baselined it stock, so I made 315/360 baseline. That means we made +102whp/+157wtq over stock which is pretty saucy on 91 octane and I guess what you consider stage 2" - @DSG Performance - https://www.supramkv.com/threads/dyno-numbers-on-stage-2.16574/

"Just wanted to say if you’re on the fence about doing it, i recommend go for it! Having just finished the flash earlier today I can say it really does wake the car up. Car just pulls and pulls all the way to redline. Butt dyno suggest at least 460whp with FBO and stage 2. Nice thing is when I put it back in normal mode it’s tame and quiet like stock. Anywho just noticed not a lot of people posting about having it done so if you got questions, just hit me up. Hopefully I’ll have real dyno figures in a week or so." - @GRSupraguy - https://www.supramkv.com/threads/a91-mt-with-stage-2.16470/

"My stage 2 numbers were 443 whp and 522wtq with a catless downpipe and stock intake, 93 octane obviously. OP, your numbers are looking like 418whp and 398wtq. That sounds like no tune was flashed at all, or only a stage 1 tune was flashed and you're just benefiting from the aftermarket downpipe install. My car stock vs downpipe install baseline picked up close to 20whp from just the downpipe install." - @Sereph102889 - https://www.supramkv.com/threads/bootmod3-stage-2-tune-results.13539

Threads on stage 2 tunes:
Dyno numbers on stage 2: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/dyno-numbers-on-stage-2.16574/
A91-MT with Stage 2: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/a91-mt-with-stage-2.16470/
bootmod3 Stage 2 tune results: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/bootmod3-stage-2-tune-results.13539/\

Note: I will have the order of mods you should get in order to achieve said power figures with a brief explanation. After this section.

500 whp:

Tune + Down pipe + E50

Tune + Down pipe + Charge pipe + Meth (Charge pipe is needed here because you need a methanol bung)

600 whp:

Notes:

• You do need a turbo upgrade at this point. You can scroll down a bit and find the current available turbos that are on sale from different brands. Pure 800 is most common so what I'm going to be mentioning mods and power figures based on the assumption it's going to be a Pure800. However it is interchangeable with other more powerful top mount turbo kits. However they are more expensive.
• Also your trans will start slipping at this point, you might want to go for a built pure trans. Or you can limit your torque. The stock trans is good for 550-600 tq. You're going to need a new trans after that.
• I would recommend getting an upgraded intake manifold at this point. Upgraded heat exchangers are welcome as well. Other quality of life mods are to be put on the car at this point. A good example of this is a catch can. Some mods that I will not mention yet they make your life easier, and your setup better. Because do keep in mind that I mention the performance mods to get you to 600 or 700 whp. However not the cooling mods, even though they are not mandatory they are preferable.
• Beyond this point you will need fueling upgrades. I would recommend running port injection rather than meth kits. It's better for more power, it's customizable, and you will need it later on down the line, so it is preferable to have it now rather than later. Also you won't face any of the set backs of meth kits like leaning out cylinders. However meth kits are still very good at this stage.
• You can opt in for an exhaust at this stage as well if you want to.

Tune + Down pipe + Pure800 + Charge pipe + Port inject / Meth kit

Tune + Down pipe + Pure800 + Charge pipe + E40 / E50 (not sure about this one will correct it)

"Yes you can if the tuner knows what they are doing.

You could plot everything based on math if you wanted to get a better idea what kind of torque you would need to make for your 600whp goal. If you want to stay under 500wtq, make 600whp but still have a full torque curve, it would look something like this: "

RPM	Torque	Horsepower
5000	490	466.5
5500	490	513.1
6000	490	559.8
6500	485	600.2
7000	450	599.8

@razorlab

700whp:

Notes:

• It is possible to hit 700whp with Pure800. However I didn't find much information on it. I also didn't find much on E blends. So I will be mentioning a top turbo mount kit as well.
• Now is the time to switch to port injection if you haven't already.
• You will need a built trans beyond this point. Intake manifold is really preferable at this point (The stock one may crack, it's plastic).
• Not any tuner can get you beyond this point. Make sure your tuner is either experienced or well known for his work.
• You will never need an intake for this platform. Yes even if your making 700whp. Unless you want more turbo noises.

Tune + Down pipe + Pure800 + Charge pipe + Port inject + Pure Trans + Low-pressure fuel pump + Exhaust + Flex Fuel kit

Tune + Down pipe + Garret G35 turbo (P2unned turbo kit) + Charge pipe + Port inject + Pure Trans + Low-pressure fuel pump

The order of mods you should get:

500 whp:

Down pipe: Basically the biggest restriction you can get rid of, get catless a down pipe.

Meth kit / Port injection / E blend: E50 can get you to 500 whp with a catless dp and a custom tune. You can opt in for that or a meth kit or port inject kit. both ways get you to 500 whp.

600 whp:

Upgraded turbo + Charge pipe: At around 550 whp the stock turbo will reach its limit. Pure 800 is the most common turbo upgrade. Pair it with a charge pipe as you will be running more boost.

Intake Manifold / Heat Exchangers: Keeping your air cool will always be a priority. Along side oil cooling and keeping temps down over all. Running more boost will raise those temps. Keep it down with intake manifolds, and heat exchangers and radiators.

700 whp:

Pure Trans: Transmission will start to slip at around 600tq so better get a built one now.

LPFP: At around 650-700whp the the LPFP would start to give out. Get an upgraded one.

Flex Fuel kit: At this point you wont be running just pump gas. Getting a flex fuel kit would ease your mind. Running E blends and other types of fuels would be way easier.

Exhaust: Since you're making serious power now, an exhaust would free up the rest of the restrictions.

Quotes on Exhaust and Dp:
"We have dyno proof of a car picking up 45WHP on a Pure 800, on the same tune + map, just by switching from the OEM 3.15" downpipe and RK Signature Titanium exhaust setup to a true 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust solution. Stock turbo has shown more like 10-15 WHP gain with the switch to a true 4" exhaust, which is still nothing to sneeze at.

Similar results have been demonstrated in 2011 on the Mk4 Supra.

3.0" Downpipe + 3.0" Exhaust @ 19 PSI = 507 WHP
3.0" Downpipe + 3.5" Exhaust @ 19 PSI = 527 WHP
3.5" Downpipe + 3.0" Exhaust @ 19 PSI = 567 WHP
3.5" Downpipe + 3.5" Exhaust @ 19 PSI = 610 WHP

Why is this happening? Because the flow of air and water is functionally limited by the narrowest section in the exhaust. The OEM downpipe has an exit that's 3.15", and almost all the aftermarket exhausts hook up to that 3.15", which makes the whole system flow like a 3.15" exhaust. It doesn't matter if the downpipe is 5" and the exhaust is 3.5", because if that OEM 3.15" section is there, then that's what you're gonna get for flow.

AFAIK, only Remnant Performance Leviathan (comes with DP), Boostin Performance Heritage (option + you provide DP), and ETS Exhaust (+ their DP) offer a true 4" exhaust from the turbo back. If you're getting anything smaller, you're leaving performance on the table. Even with the stock turbo." - @Thraxbert

Threads / Videos on power figures:
Routes to 500 whp?: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/routes-to-500-whp.17286/
600 RWHP what’s needed? Future proof & cheap way: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/600-rwhp-what’s-needed-future-proof-cheap-way.11576/page-2
600HP TOYOTA GR SUPRA REVIEW:


We Turned the Toyota Supra Into a 800hp Beast!!:


HOW TO MAKE 700WHP ON YOUR MKV SUPRA! (Stock Engine):


700HP 2020 Supra POV Drive - How Is It Like?:


A Stock B58 Engine Making This Much Power Makes No Sense - Big Turbo A90 Supra:

• FAQs:

Q: Should I get a used Supra? Or a new one?
A: If you're looking to mod your car get a 2020 or 2021 with an unlocked ECU. If you're looking to keep it stock, get a brand new one.

Q: Is modding worth it?
A: Yes, but I'm biased.

Q: Should I get a catless Downpipe or catted?
A: Catless sounds better, and gives more power combined with a tune. Catted down pipes are more for complying with regulations. So make sure it's what you're looking for.

Q: Do I need an aftermarket intake?
A: No, the stock one holds up good.

Q: Do I need an exhaust?
A: Unless you're pushing serious power you don't

Q: Do I need a charge pipe?
A: If you're running more boost or an upgraded turbo, get one.

Q: If I have a catless / catted downpipe and or a charge pipe and or an intake and or an exhaust and or do I need a tune?
A: No. However, you will get a check engine light for a catless downpipe if you don't tune it. Or you're running a JB4

Q: Should I get JB4? Or MHD or BM3?
A: Depends for locked models 2021+ I would say yes getting a JB4 is well worth it. As it is a hassle to get your ecu unlocked. As for 2020 and some 2021 models I would say go for either MHD or BM3 based on your preference and the tuners preference. As it provides more means of gaining power.

Q: Are cooling mods necessary?
A: No, but they help a lot. Especially if you're in a place where it's humid or hot.

Q: How much Ethanol should I run?
A: That's up to preference. The more E you run the more octane you have IE the more power. Do keep in mind you need an Ethanol tune to run E.

Q: What turbo upgrade should I go for?
A: That depends. As it stands right now, DAW is the most reliable for hybrid turbos. As for top mount turbo kits there are a bunch like P2unned or Boostlogic. Quality depends on the kit it self and the turbo you're running.

Q: Should I go for a Top mount turbo kit or a Hybrid turbo?
A: That also depends. How much power you do you want to push? If you're aiming really high like 700 whp+ aim for a top mount kit if 700 whp is a good number to you go for a hybrid turbo. However in the case of hybrid turbo's you do need more mods to reach said goals. Something you won't find a problem with in top mount turbo kits. However, hybrid turbo's are also way cheaper than top mount turbo kits. So choose your poison.

Q: How much power should I go for?
A: 500 whp is really powerful. As going for a turbo upgrade you might blow up a turbo. Of course there is nothing more reliable than OEM turbo.

Q: Do I need a HPFP?
A: No, port injection is better and safer.

Q: Do I need a LPFP
A: At around 650-700 whp you're fuel pump will start to give out.

Q: Will an intake manifold give me more hp?
A: Yes, but it's more about cooling rather than hp.

Two Weeks:
This section is dedicated to @_Sp1ral0ut lol. Basically it's a section for all types incoming updates to the supra or the B58.

• New Turbo incoming Pure 900
• New DAW turbo incoming.

Thank you for helping with the thread
@razorlab
@zrk
@Thraxbert

Sponsored

 

[jtsang25]

If this doesn't get pinned it's going to get lost. People aren't using the search bar already you think they will for this?

 

[D3ad_Hand]

If this doesn't get pinned it's going to get lost. People aren't using the search bar already you think they will for this?

Just trying to be as helpful as possible for the time being.

 

[DSG Performance]

Very thorough and comprehensive! Fantastic

 

[Basura]

Bookmarked just in case, great info!

 

[Rocksandblues]

Thank you for the effort. Now, get some outdoor hobbies and get some sun.

 

[zrk]

Solid for stock turbo/stock frame turbo cars. Some constructive (I hope) comments.

The factory charge pipe can hold up to 600whp, but it is plastic

It's more of a boost pressure thing than an HP thing, and in any case, I don't personally know of anyone blowing up the Gen2 B58 chargepipe. The design was change slightly, and it doesn't have the same flaws as the Gen1.

f you're planning on running ethanol it is recommended to have a charge pipe.

See above. This is a boost pressure thing. It's unlikely the factory turbo makes enough power to hurt it.

Stage 1:

I'd just remove the word stages complete. It's going to further confuse things as there is certainly no authority on what a 'stage' is, but I understand what you're trying to do here.

The big power bump would be a meth kit and an ethanol tune

For 99% of cars, you don't need meth if you have ethanol. Meth for bolt-on cars, stock turbo/stock frame turbos is just an octane booster. Ethanol is more than sufficient for this.

Russia

It's actually Finland now, but no big deal.

Stage 1: stage 1 would drop in air filter / intake and just a recalibration tune. The air filters / intake are unnecessary if you don't want them.

If you must keep "stages" in this guide (but please don't. it's more hurtful than helpful, IMO), then the first "stage" should be downpipe. The factory cat is incredibly restrictive. A drop in filter is fine, but there are no significant performance benefits on the stock turbo through upgrading the intake. It flows fine.

I do need a little help with these. If you know other components please let me know to update the thread.

Fuel Pump: ???

Turbo: 550 whp ???

Exhaust: ???

Charge pipe: 600 whp

Engine: 800 whp

Transmission: 650 - 700 whp

* Exhaust isn't really needed with factory turbo, though @Thraxbert and co have done some research here. Personally wouldn't bother until you're making serious power, then you'll want to straight pipe or delete the exhaust completely.

* Low-Pressure Fuel pump: Full E or Port Injection
* High-Pressure Fuel pump: Never needed. There is a rumor of an "upgraded" pump coming; it won't be necessary- do port injection instead
* Chargepipe: Replace when cracked or for aesthetics. Big turbo, Port injection, or an upgrade intake manifold will require one.
* Engine: This is debatable. There are 1000hp cars on the stock motor, but they don't last.
* Trans: 600 ft-lbs of torque. You're playing with fire after that. Torque can be limited in the tune, so it's not required immediately.

 

[D3ad_Hand]

Solid for stock turbo/stock frame turbo cars. Some constructive (I hope) comments.



It's more of a boost pressure thing than an HP thing, and in any case, I don't personally know of anyone blowing up the Gen2 B58 chargepipe. The design was change slightly, and it doesn't have the same flaws as the Gen1.



See above. This is a boost pressure thing. It's unlikely the factory turbo makes enough power to hurt it.



I'd just remove the word stages complete. It's going to further confuse things as there is certainly no authority on what a 'stage' is, but I understand what you're trying to do here.



For 99% of cars, you don't need meth if you have ethanol. Meth for bolt-on cars, stock turbo/stock frame turbos is just an octane booster. Ethanol is more than sufficient for this.



It's actually Finland now, but no big deal.



If you must keep "stages" in this guide (but please don't. it's more hurtful than helpful, IMO), then the first "stage" should be downpipe. The factory cat is incredibly restrictive. A drop in filter is fine, but there are no significant performance benefits on the stock turbo through upgrading the intake. It flows fine.



* Exhaust isn't really needed with factory turbo, though @Thraxbert and co have done some research here. Personally wouldn't bother until you're making serious power, then you'll want to straight pipe or delete the exhaust completely.

* Low-Pressure Fuel pump: Full E or Port Injection
* High-Pressure Fuel pump: Never needed. There is a rumor of an "upgraded" pump coming; it won't be necessary- do port injection instead
* Chargepipe: Replace when cracked or for aesthetics. Big turbo, Port injection, or an upgrade intake manifold will require one.
* Engine: This is debatable. There are 1000hp cars on the stock motor, but they don't last.
* Trans: 600 ft-lbs of torque. You're playing with fire after that. Torque can be limited in the tune, so it's not required immediately.

I will edit it in everything. Thank you for the feedback zack. You think I should add anything to thread? Or does it cover enough?

 

[zrk]

I will edit it in everything. Thank you for the feedback zack. You think I should add anything to thread? Or does it cover enough?

Covers a ton, it looks good. It's definitely geared towards low to moderate powered cars, which is 99% of them, so this is fantastic so far. I think with a bit of evolution this could be a really great starting point for most new Supra owners.

 

[S2k]

This is great stuff, thanks for taking the time to do this!

The only thing I can think of adding is some links to the various old threads that cover specific areas in more detail.

And get this pinned someplace easy to find by everyone!

 

[Mr. Jonathan]

Two things.
1) You might want to create this informational pamphlet and post iterations to this thread as a PDF. That will free up the posts for general replies, feedback, banter, arguments, insults, death threats, etc…Especially as the content grows. Readers might find it difficult to zero in on the latest and greatest update if there is a bunch of inaccurate claims and dick measuring comments throughout the many pages this thread will most likely become.
2) Where’s the BimmerCode love? There is a BimmerCode PDF on this forum, some where. Not sure the last time it was updated or if the author is still on the forum. But, if you consolidated with what you’re creating, I’m sure folks will find it helpful.

 

[D3ad_Hand]

Covers a ton, it looks good. It's definitely geared towards low to moderate powered cars, which is 99% of them, so this is fantastic so far. I think with a bit of evolution this could be a really great starting point for most new Supra owners.

Done with the editing. I'll edit few things in and a few things out. With time should be good.

 

[D3ad_Hand]

This is great stuff, thanks for taking the time to do this!

The only thing I can think of adding is some links to the various old threads that cover specific areas in more detail.

And get this pinned someplace easy to find by everyone!

I'm hoping to get it pinged as well, we will just have to wait and see. And if you can please do link some threads to help with the post. I'm going to look for some as well.

 

[D3ad_Hand]

Two things.
1) You might want to create this informational pamphlet and post iterations to this thread as a PDF. That will free up the posts for general replies, feedback, banter, arguments, insults, death threats, etc…Especially as the content grows. Readers might find it difficult to zero in on the latest and greatest update if there is a bunch of inaccurate claims and dick measuring comments throughout the many pages this thread will most likely become.
2) Where’s the BimmerCode love? There is a BimmerCode PDF on this forum, some where. Not sure the last time it was updated or if the author is still on the forum. But, if you consolidated with what you’re creating, I’m sure folks will find it helpful.

1. Dully noted. Yeah you're right about that one. But when you say pdf, could please elaborate more? An example would be nice.

2. I completely forgot about bimmercode. As I was writing this I just kept adding a bunch of things, and some times I lost track. I will make sure to add a section for bimmercode.

 

[Rocses]

I KNEW @zrk WAS INVOLVED

Sponsored