Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[razorlab]

Thank you for posting the PID tables. I didn’t realize setpoint was in absolute- I’m surprised WOT is that low for stock parameters.

I noticed that my oil pressure targets varied in my logs at similar RPM’s, so I figured that targets were dynamic- I just wasn’t sure what exactly influenced it. I was under the impression that the only user defined tables would be the setpoint, and the DME was using some kind of closed loop logic that took into account of load, oil temps, etc.

I did notice that BM3 does have channels to log P and D parameters, but I wasn’t sure how if that would be of benefit to my tuner. He thinks I just need to just get the ZTK pump

It shouldn't really fluctuate much. PID is there for it to hit target, just like boost control.

There is also an offset table that is used to up pressure for Vanos depending on load and rpm. OEM it's set to increase oil pressure around 3000-4500rpm

When I defined the Oil Pressure Setpoint I converted HPA to PSI as it's way easier for me to quickly parse that.

Here is my current Oil Pressure Setpoint table, followed by a log from today.

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[maniac]

Brilliant info. Have you had a pump fail pushing it a bit? or is it golden so far?

 

[razorlab]

Brilliant info. Have you had a pump fail pushing it a bit? or is it golden so far?

I haven't yet, but I am a sample of one. I do have a 2020 though so it's probably just a matter of when, even if I didn't increase oil pressure. If/when my pump fails, I will probably swap it with a ZTK pump.

There are two tables that set the max/min oil pressure that will trigger an error. The OEM values in the max table are currently WAYYYYYY higher than the +11psi that I have been using so I feel pretty okay about it.

 

[maniac]

I am so glad i came into this car late.....with most of the development done!

My last car I was pushing boundaries, and it nearly cost me a marriage with the outlay of cash haha.

"You can sleep in a car, but you can't drive a house!"

i hope your pump doesnt fail matey..........because if it damages rotating parts......we all know 99% dont just opt for a new engine, they forge the fucker.

 

[razorlab]

i hope your pump doesnt fail matey..........because if it damages rotating parts......we all know 99% dont just opt for a new engine, they forge the fucker.

They are designed to fail to high pressure instead of low so the odds are in our favor.

 

[Z4m40i]

It shouldn't really fluctuate much. PID is there for it to hit target, just like boost control.

There is also an offset table that is used to up pressure for Vanos depending on load and rpm. OEM it's set to increase oil pressure around 3000-4500rpm

When I defined the Oil Pressure Setpoint I converted HPA to PSI as it's way easier for me to quickly parse that.

Here is my current Oil Pressure Setpoint table, followed by a log from today.

just to clarify, is this still PSIA?

 

[razorlab]

just to clarify, is this still PSIA?

Yes, that way it runs the same setpoint no matter the elevation. So 90 - ambient = gauge. So where I live at almost sea level, ambient pressure is 14.5, 90psi absolute = 75.5psi gauge.

 

[Gabe]

Had posted in other section of the forum, but I think it goes better here.

moved from HPDE 1 to 2 and drove for the first time without instructor. This was my first solo drive, and it was raining.

a more experienced driver explained the line when the track is wet and I tried to do my best staying out of the standing water and the slippery concrete patches.
At the end was actually a ton of fun and the traction control emoji kept on showing on the dash. Compared to the group, I felt my car was fast and very stable.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Had posted in other section of the forum, but I think it goes better here.

moved from HPDE 1 to 2 and drove for the first time without instructor. This was my first solo drive, and it was raining.

a more experienced driver explained the line when the track is wet and I tried to do my best staying out of the standing water and the slippery concrete patches.
At the end was actually a ton of fun and the traction control emoji kept on showing on the dash. Compared to the group, I felt my car was fast and very stable.

Well dun. A lot of it is feel. You’ll know when you hit a patch of water & not turning or braking when in those. After a good downpour you should see a dry line and hydroplane areas to stay out of. Great experience! Next time try to not let the nannies come on at all.

 

[Rizen]

So what U gona do about it except vents? Different turbo?
I'd prob switch to RL setup but would need new hood :/

If it stays at 260-270, nothing. Short trips to 280-290 for a lap aren't going to kill the motor. The Redline oil I use is okay to 300F. I'll install the hood vents and maybe duct the intake and see where I land. I can change maps on the steering wheel to do a single flyer lap at higher power for Time Attack. I can't change the turbo for my class, unfortunately.

 

[Islindur]

So, i put 1000w fan in and under road conditions the car runs a bit cooler on oil. Standard oil temps were 110-111C, now they are around 105-107. Ofc its not track driving so duno how relevant it would be but at street driving it def runs cooler. Sometimes it does not go over 105, where before it would 100% get to 111C quickly.
My fan was "cold climate market" which i belive was 450W, so going to 1000W fan is significiant difference.

A pic gettin chased by MR 3RS on TrofeoRS :> even on straights tho! And crazy stripped megane on slicks back there.

 

[initialDnut]

I need some informed advice!

I keep going through my front tires way too quickly. Here are a picture of a set on RE71RS fronts that were brand new before my last track weekend (3 days at Watkins Glen 11 heat cycles 20/25 min per sessions). I think they are already shot because of the sidewalls.

Set up:
- I ran 265 on oem wheels.
- They were heat cycled by TireRack when I got them fitted.
- I would take about 2 laps to warm them up each outing
- I have -3.0' camber and total toe in of 0.19
-I used to run 32psi hot, but went to 35 psi this time (as I thought my issues may be under inflation related.

What can be causing this?

- not enough camber?
- Too much Toe in? Is this scrubbing tires and I should change to 0 toe?
- wrong pressure
- Driving too hard? I drive hard, but try to be smooth -instructors have never called me out on being a hooligan
- Not taking enough time to warm up tires (hence cracks)?
-Driver needs to shed a few pounds?

 

[Subydude]

That looks like a combo of not enough camber and turning the wheel too far. Likely more turning the wheel too far since that's what produces that type of shoulder wear at that camber level.

Mid turn, if the car is pushing, you want to unwind instead of adding more steering as that additional angle tends to just grind the tire away.

A 265 on a 9" wheel is a bit of a stuff as well, so you would want the higher pressure to prevent roll over. The 71RS, like most 200tw tires, likes a bit of a stretch. If you go back to it, I might go to the oem size of 255 and then play with pressure. As the tire is better supported you can go down a bit on pressure, but if it's pinched you want to go up to keep it stable.

Over all, you likely want to get rid of the front toe in and run around zero toe (toe isn't what's killing this though). A quick reset via toe plates should help that. Then I'd see about running 35-37 hot on that set until cords are showing. Try to focus on not turning the wheel more after the car stops turning more. The trick is getting the tires squealing, not squalling. Then see how the wear looks and if you need more front camber.

 

[initialDnut]

to focus on not turning the wheel more after the car stops turning more. The trick is getting the tires squealing, not squalling. Then see how the wear looks and if you need more front camber.

Thanks for that feedback. On the steering, I tend to set the wheel as I turn in and then unwind after the apex. Maybe I am turning too early, or too sharp and angle for the speed. I do tend to get some rotation on the longer turns. Going to spend some time to (over) analyze myself on the steering!

I will set toe to zero and fit 255s next time!

 

[Davo307]

Thanks for that feedback. On the steering, I tend to set the wheel as I turn in and then unwind after the apex. Maybe I am turning too early, or too sharp and angle for the speed. I do tend to get some rotation on the longer turns. Going to spend some time to (over) analyze myself on the steering!

I will set toe to zero and fit 255s next time!

Post an in car video showing your hands on the wheel. Sometimes what you think youre doing vs actually seeing what youre doing are two different things. Nothing wrong with that. I stick a pedal camera in some students cars to show them they aren't heel toeing even though they swear they are.

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