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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

AHP

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Definitely I just haven't decided whether I want to do camber plates or LCAs. It's my daily and I have a track car. I might max out the rear go 275 square on OEM wheels and just remount the tires once.


I would suggest the LCAs. In addition to the adjustability it's a much sturdier part than OEM.
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Eyelise

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Okay, here are actual real world examples from my Supra on track which match the illustration almost exactly: :cool:

Screenshot 2023-06-28 at 12.50.55 PM.webp

Screenshot 2023-06-28 at 12.49.56 PM.webp

Great illustrations!

When I said they don't match reality I was referring to the top illustration that shows a vehicle in a neutral stance with big gaps in the contact patch area due to camber.

Additionally, in terms of the cornering pic, you can see very clearly it matches reality save the part that the tire is a totally rigid structure. That is the part I was referring to. Look how the outside tires are basically rolling under the edge of the wheel compared to the top. Not the same as in the illustration.
 
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razorlab

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When I said they don't match reality I was referring to the top illustration that shows a vehicle in a neutral stance with big gaps in the contact patch area due to camber.
Well yea, the illustration is exaggerated, although, my fronts do have a small gap at static rest on the outside from the negative camber, but nothing like the stance bois do, which are closer to the illustration. ;)

atfjpvwrar351.webp


Additionally, in terms of the cornering pic, you can see very clearly it matches reality save the part that the tire is a totally rigid structure. That is the part I was referring to. Look how the outside tires are basically rolling under the edge of the wheel compared to the top. Not the same as in the illustration.
Yup, another reason to have more static negative camber in front, so when you are cornering and losing negative camber, you aren't rolling over onto the shoulder of the tire.
 

rwense

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Definitely I just haven't decided whether I want to do camber plates or LCAs. It's my daily and I have a track car. I might max out the rear go 275 square on OEM wheels and just remount the tires once.
Personally I would just go with camber plates or coils with them. The SPL LCA seems super sturdy and I really haven't heard anything bad, although I do know it doesn't play nicely with aftermarket swaybars. I've seen a few people who have to chop the last adjustment hole on the blade of their swaybars in order to keep it from contacting.
 

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Definitely I just haven't decided whether I want to do camber plates or LCAs. It's my daily and I have a track car. I might max out the rear go 275 square on OEM wheels and just remount the tires once.
What suspension are you on? I can tell you that camber plates on stock suspension is very limited in regards to the amount of camber you can get. I mean I have quite a bit more than stock, but lower arms may get you more, so it's check into those as well.
 

kaj

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I think I'm going to pop out the jacking pads and use the slots in the frame with T-Hooks, it's how I tied down all my previous autocross/track cars for years. I'm just getting too much conflicting info on the best way to tie down using the wheels (cross vs. don't cross etc.) :D .

As for the car being too far back on the trailer, it may appear that way but it's dialed right in. I have a max 600lbs of tongue weight on my tow vehicles hitch receiver, which works out to 11.5% tongue weight of my trailer + car and that's exactly where I've got it. She seems to pull fine.
Then you get the argument of suspension being compressed the entire time vs letting it articulate. ?
I don't think it really matters, to be honest. They're was a time that I had to use wheel straps on the front and t-hooks in the rear due to d-ring constraints. It worked fine.
 

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Then you get the argument of suspension being compressed the entire time vs letting it articulate. ?
I don't think it really matters, to be honest. They're was a time that I had to use wheel straps on the front and t-hooks in the rear due to d-ring constraints. It worked fine.
Yah I stirred that pot a few pages ago :p
 
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Eyelise

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Well yea, the illustration is exaggerated, although, my fronts do have a small gap at static rest on the outside from the negative camber, but nothing like the stance bois do, which are closer to the illustration. ;)

atfjpvwrar351.jpg




Yup, another reason to have more static negative camber in front, so when you are cornering and losing negative camber, you aren't rolling over onto the shoulder of the tire.
I was going to say I’ve only ever seen it in the um “ricer” crowd. No offense pls don’t erase me.
 

Eyelise

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What suspension are you on? I can tell you that camber plates on stock suspension is very limited in regards to the amount of camber you can get. I mean I have quite a bit more than stock, but lower arms may get you more, so it's check into those as well.
I am stock. I plan to daily drive so if I got -2.0 or 2.5 I would be happy. I believe they quote up to -3.0 on the website.
 

Eyelise

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Stiffening sway bars reduce overall grip.
I agree I hope my understeer is not horrible but plan on doing the camber plates to help a bit. I can go softer if need be as well. I have a track day Saturday so we will see
 

FLtrackdays

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I agree I hope my understeer is not horrible but plan on doing the camber plates to help a bit. I can go softer if need be as well. I have a track day Saturday so we will see
She’s a fantastic platform. Hope you can find what feels good to you for the least amount of $$$. You’ll have a blast on track regardless!

It can be hard to tell what’s what when you 1st get on here. This thread however has the most straightforward best advice for anyone looking to do more than their free track day. A lot of experienced honest peeps for sure.
 
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Here is another shot on a tight turn after a fairly high speed straight. You can see the rotation on the left side front and rears are pretty flat and if you zoom in can also see the neg camber on the right side. I have gone back to stock bar in front from an Eibach and have been playing around with the rear since, and ever have run without rear bar since I went to coil overs to get a little more acceleration out of the turns. This pic however has eiback bar on soft. These are on maxxis rc1 tires and -2.8 front and -2.6 rear. With about 1/8 tow out front and 1/8th tow in rear. Have camber plates on the coil overs and all spl arms front and rear to get to these settings. But I also ran on stock shocks with camber plates, sport springs, and the eiback front and rear bars with all the spl arms and it also worked really well on that set up. Rear wing and front splitter also help a lot. I have tried a lot of settings going up to -3.3 front and -3 rear but then was trading off too much forward grip for acceleration on the rears so this setting is the best I have found so far. Hope it helps others as they are fine tuning their set ups.

53773405-7147-476D-94E8-C2D3B1C911AA.webp
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