Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[garudathree]

-2.6 works pretty well, depending on what the pyrometer indicates. rear has favorable camber curve so you don’t need as much static camber.

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[razorlab]

The key distinction here is full-on race car vs dual purpose/street car.. An advanced driver with a basic track setup doesn't need -4 (and all of the hardware to achieve it) to be successful on an RE71RS or similar. If you've got all of the suspension, all of the aero and all of the power then yeah...

We both drive to/from the track. I just got back from a three hour drive up and down the Hudson in my "rAcE kAr". I think maybe the red mist is clouding that @initialDnut bought A052's, not RE71RS, and @garudathree mentioned that A052's like all the camber you can give them. Which is 100% a fact.

RE71RS can for sure get away with less because it's stiffer, it's not really a similar tire to the A052. I do 100% agree that the PSS and PS4S will get shredded to hell with any decent pace on track.

Remember, the Supra is strut based in the front.

 

[Todday1]

That is where i ended up on rear as well as there is a trade off with stopping and getting the drive off the corners. Front ended up at about - 3.5 with slight tow out for a little more turn in. And -2.6. In rear with a slight tow in. I have been running full P zero slicks in TT and then Maxxis R1/R2 for HPDE practice. 275/35/18 square. So change tires and cross rotate at least once between sessions each day. Have been getting fairly even tread wear but i have never tried that much camber in front. So will bump it up a bit as i still tend to eventually cord the outside more than the insides on the fronts but i run them until they cord. I did not think you could have that much difference front and rear. So is good to hear what others are doing.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[garudathree]

imo the right approach is to maximize tire contact patch through camber and pressure settings, and then use damper/arb tuning to patch balance. chunking the outside like what was posted here just means folks aren't using 80% of the tire they paid for.

 

[initialDnut]

We both drive to/from the track. I just got back from a three hour drive up and down the Hudson in my "rAcE kAr". I think maybe the red mist is clouding that @initialDnut bought A052's, not RE71RS, and @garudathree mentioned that A052's like all the camber you can give them. Which is 100% a fact.

RE71RS can for sure get away with less because it's stiffer, it's not really a similar tire to the A052. I do 100% agree that the PSS and PS4S will get shredded to hell with any decent pace on track.

Remember, the Supra is strut based in the front.

I am just trying to do the best i can for tires while i still have stock set up . The RE71RS are on backorder for the whole US.

My plan for next year is to get lower control arms and the Potenzas.

I also only want to change one thing at a time. So, first i try the stickier Yokahomas and then i change the arms and more negative camber.

does that sound sensible, or am i doing things in the wrong order?

 

[racebuild]

-4 at minimum.

Properly setup street car takes home 1st place.

 

[Rocksandblues]

all this silly camber arguing you all are losing sight of the most important shared knowledge on this thread!!


What oil should i use in my rear camber plates???

 

[FLtrackdays]

That is where i ended up on rear as well as there is a trade off with stopping and getting the drive off the corners. Front ended up at about - 3.5 with slight tow out for a little more turn in. And -2.6. In rear with a slight tow in. I have been running full P zero slicks in TT and then Maxxis R1/R2 for HPDE practice. 275/35/18 square. So change tires and cross rotate at least once between sessions each day. Have been getting fairly even tread wear but i have never tried that much camber in front. So will bump it up a bit as i still tend to eventually cord the outside more than the insides on the fronts but i run them until they cord.

Yeah I’m with ya. Found out the same as time went on. This car does much better with more neg camber. What tire pressure range are you running (hot) as the day goes on? Or even to start. I’m on the Maxxis as well & start at 36psi. I keep bleeding them as the day goes on.

imo the right approach is to maximize tire contact patch through camber and pressure settings, and then use damper/arb tuning to patch balance. chunking the outside like what was posted here just means folks aren't using 80% of the tire they paid for.

A few pro guys will drop the tire pressure down below 30psi. Granted they are faster and used to burning through tires quicker. What’s a good psi balance (wear & performance) you guys are finding on a softer tire, such as a 100tw or full slick?

 

[FLtrackdays]

I am just trying to do the best i can for tires while i still have stock set up . The RE71RS are on backorder for the whole US.

My plan for next year is to get lower control arms and the Potenzas.

I also only want to change one thing at a time. So, first i try the stickier Yokahomas and then i change the arms and more negative camber.

does that sound sensible, or am i doing things in the wrong order?

Depends on your tire size. If you’re running 275/35-18, you’ll have a plethora of tire choices. Go with a stickier tire and keep dialing up the negative camber up front as your camber plates or LCAs will allow.

Edit: Crap ?- Just reread that you’re on stock set up. I keep my stock wheels for daily driving and got a set of Apex wheels for track. It’s nice to be able to rotate and have a bigger tire selection. Their page was changed/ modified. So here’s the latest link:

https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guides/toyota/supra/toyota-gr-supra-wheel-and-tire-fitment-guide

 

[razorlab]

A few pro guys will drop the tire pressure down below 30psi. Granted they are faster and used to burning through tires quicker. What’s a good psi balance (wear & performance) you guys are finding on a softer tire, such as a 100tw or full slick?

I start the day at 27psi front / 26psi rear cold and still have to bleed some air out after the first session. I aim for 32-33psi hot.

 

[Todday1]

I also start on maxxis at 26 to 27. They tend to roll the outside edges faster so i have been running them at 34 to 35 hot. Ar1 can go to 32/34 hot. P zero slicks. Start at 21 and adjust hot at 30.

 

[Rensuhlo]

From Road Atlanta.

 

[romanLegion9574]

i like the balance a lot. I thought i might need some more downforce at the front to compensate , but i now like it just as it is. Around fast corners it feels great when throttle steering.

Just to confirm, this is the Adro wing with the lower height right?

 

[Rensuhlo]

After reading @rwense review of the FA510s, I reached out to a member of the supersecretsupradiscord who had a set for sale.

10k fronts, 14/18k rears. Tighter low speed dampening per the original shop that spec'd them. Aluminum shock bodies, heim joints, the whole nine yards.

 

[NINaudio]

After reading @rwense review of the FA510s, I reached out to a member of the supersecretsupradiscord who had a set for sale.

10k fronts, 14/18k rears. Tighter low speed dampening per the original shop that spec'd them. Aluminum shock bodies, heim joints, the whole nine yards.

What?! Lemme in! ?

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