Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[tomfree]

Looking to do some preventative maintenance for my 2022 Supra 3.0. After 27 track days of HPDE with NASA, HOD, and Chin, I want to do whatever I can to be proactive and stay ahead of known problem areas. I am currently changing engine oil, tires, brake pads, rotors, and fluid regularly. Yearly I am having the diff fluid changed and the trans every 1-2 years. Currently have installed braided brake lines, CSF heat exchanger (because the old one was punctured by debris), Verus oil cooler, Verus turbo heat shield, Verus diff scoop, and other various suspension mods such as lowering springs, SPL lower control arms, and Cusco sway bars. Based off all of your experiences, what would you recommend I look into for long-term preventative maintenance? Thanks!

Watch the sphericals on the SPL LCAs very closely, as well as the arm itself. We've had some interesting failures with SPL parts.

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[Rizen]

My usual post track day maintenance is a nut and bolt check of the suspension (paint pens are helpful too), check rotors for cracks and thickness, and check pads. I change oil every ~4 hours of track time or 3 events. Check for bind in the suspension and I have the car aligned every 2-3 events. Unfortunately my garage is not level enough to do a string alignment, although I do have hubstands.

For longer term maintenance I’m going to do hubs and studs this year since mine will have 3 years of track driving, probably 600+ laps and 19,000 miles on them.

I’m also in the process of rebuilding my front Brembos now since all the seals are toast from heat.

Finally I have a box of new suspension hardware I bring to events for most of the major arm and brake bolts. If something breaks on my car I’m ready, and if not I can help out others.

 

[PowerGetter]

NASA event at Buttonwillow a few weeks ago. No on-screen data. It was my brothers first track day in his Integra Type-S and I tagged along to do a shakedown with some suspension changes I've done.

second half of the video, the group leader/instructor for the intro group played cat and mouse in the silver M3

 

[Yalemaier]

Guibo

Interesting. I had to do some research on this and I see that this can be a point of failure. Do you recommend purchasing aluminum guibos for both the front and rear of the driveshaft? I see Torque Solution sells one.

 

[Yalemaier]

My usual post track day maintenance is a nut and bolt check of the suspension (paint pens are helpful too), check rotors for cracks and thickness, and check pads. I change oil every ~4 hours of track time or 3 events. Check for bind in the suspension and I have the car aligned every 2-3 events. Unfortunately my garage is not level enough to do a string alignment, although I do have hubstands.

For longer term maintenance I’m going to do hubs and studs this year since mine will have 3 years of track driving, probably 600+ laps and 19,000 miles on them.

I’m also in the process of rebuilding my front Brembos now since all the seals are toast from heat.

Finally I have a box of new suspension hardware I bring to events for most of the major arm and brake bolts. If something breaks on my car I’m ready, and if not I can help out others.

I agree, will probably do wheel hubs/bearings and studs this year also. Do you have a part number for the wheel hubs? Are they the same all 4 corners?

 

[kyle9]

Interesting. I had to do some research on this and I see that this can be a point of failure. Do you recommend purchasing aluminum guibos for both the front and rear of the driveshaft? I see Torque Solution sells one.

no, that will fail much faster than oem. Just inspect it for wear and replace if it doesn’t look “basically like new.”

Trust me, you’ll look at it and either say “that basically looks like new” or “oh that looks kinda worn.” Replace it with oem in the latter case.

Hopefully you don’t get a “wow, that looks bad” which is what you see immediately before failure.

 

[Traxion]

I agree, will probably do wheel hubs/bearings and studs this year also. Do you have a part number for the wheel hubs? Are they the same all 4 corners?

Rears are different.

Front FCP Euro Link for lifetime replacement. SKF is high qualify South Korean made bearings. They are 1 to 1 replacements. These aren't chinesium. They do cost a little more than OEM but you'll come out ahead if you're keeping the car for a few years.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-wheel-hub-assembly-skf-31206866315

Hub Bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly-bolt-genuine-bmw-31206872920

I wasn't able to confirm a good FCP Euro part # for the rear when I was looking for one.
OEM Rear Bearing: 42410-WAA03
OEM Rear Axle Bolt: 90118-WA283

BMW Axle Bolt: 31-20-6-866-022
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bm...ion-spring-m16x1-5x66-genuine-bmw-31206866022

Maybe these are rears?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-wheel-bearing-kit-genuine-bmw-33406899175

 

[Rizen]

I agree, will probably do wheel hubs/bearings and studs this year also. Do you have a part number for the wheel hubs? Are they the same all 4 corners?

Fronts are 43550-WAA02, I believe the rears are different but not 100% sure.

 

[Rizen]

Rears are different.

Front FCP Euro Link for lifetime replacement. SKF is high qualify South Korean made bearings. They are 1 to 1 replacements. These aren't chinesium. They do cost a little more than OEM but you'll come out ahead if you're keeping the car for a few years.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-wheel-hub-assembly-skf-31206866315

Hub Bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly-bolt-genuine-bmw-31206872920

I wasn't able to confirm a good FCP Euro part # for the rear when I was looking for one.
OEM Rear Bearing: 42410-WAA03
OEM Rear Axle Bolt: 90118-WA283

BMW Axle Bolt: 31-20-6-866-022
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bm...ion-spring-m16x1-5x66-genuine-bmw-31206866022

Maybe these are rears?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-wheel-bearing-kit-genuine-bmw-33406899175

Hah, just saw this. Sometimes this forum doesn't seem to load all the new posts when I click on a notification.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Hah, just saw this. Sometimes this forum doesn't seem to load all the new posts when I click on a notification.

Lately I can’t even get anything to load after being on for a little bit. Some cloud fare server thing, it says…

Regardless all good advice on the preventative maintenance ? I’ve broken or worn out most of the items mentioned ?

 

[Rensuhlo]

I agree, will probably do wheel hubs/bearings and studs this year also. Do you have a part number for the wheel hubs? Are they the same all 4 corners?

Per @razorlab
Toyota #:

Right:
43211WAA01 (standard)
43211WAA02 (- negative camber)
43211WAA03 (+ positive camber)

Left:
43212WAA01 (standard)
43212WAA02 (- negative camber)
43212WAA03 (+ positive camber)

BMW #:

Right:
31216878614 (standard)
31216877202 (- negative camber)
31216877204 (+ positive camber)

Left:
31216878613 (standard)
31216877201 (- negative camber)
31216877203 (+ positive camber)

 

[tomfree]

I know it's been said on here before...but if you're not buying consumables from FCP Euro, look into it. I don't know how they do it, but their warranty return policy is fantastic. My last set of front rotors...I "returned" and got another set for what amounts to shipping.

 

[Subydude]

I bought my rear premium sized rotors to convert my base to premium brakes from Rock Auto, but when it comes time for the fronts I'll get them from FCP.

I used them in the past with the Cayman and it was always good. I have to imagine there's a lot of people that buy from them for the warranty but then don't use it. Rock Auto is generally cheaper with good parts, but for consumables like rotors/hubs/studs/etc it does make more sense to use FCP.

 

[tomfree]

I was wondering when you'd show up in this thread, Tim.

 

[Subydude]

I was wondering when you'd show up in this thread, Tim.

I've been floating around for a few weeks now. This forum moves slower than others, but has some good info, along with the usual static. Still, generally a good place.

I got the pads, and thanks again for that!

Right now I'm waiting on studs to show up, then I'll do the rear brake swap, stud install, and finish a few of my 3d printing projects (intake silencer delete and wind deflectors). I have a letter into the TTAC asking about spring legality (HKS for better wheel fitment), so hopefully that comes out later this month and I can buy springs/wheels. I found someone selling the Verus camber plates used on here so those are waiting in a box ready to go for that also.

The plan is to prep to S2 for SCCA TT which (for me) amounts to springs, wheels, tires, and alignment. Intakes, ECU tunes (sadly no piggy backs), sway bars, oil coolers, general coolers, and exhaust are allowed as well, but I'd like to just get it on track with my first round to see how it fairs against the other cars I've driven. Without the ability to change the manifold in S2 I don't see a reason to spend the coin on much else power wise. Exhaust is mostly for weight savings and sound, and the intake designs all seem to ingest more hot air (although it would be nice to get a different intake panel maybe). My winter projects will be determined by whatever oil temp I see (after I figure out how to log it) on track, but I imagine I'll do a cooler sooner or later given I live in the SE and don't have a lot of mechanical sympathy on track ?

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