Rear rotor won’t come off, please help!

[rowdy]

Hey all,
I’m attempting to do my first brakes and rotor change and need some help. The front were easy, but when attempting to remove the rear rotor after removing the caliper assembly and rotor hold/lead bolt it won’t budge. I haven’t found much online except some saying to use penetrating oil because it’s rusted and others saying there is a parking adjustment that needs to be made. I don’t have the e-break engaged, just the normal parking from the gear knob (it’s an automatic fyi). Would that be what’s holding the rotor to the hub regardless of removing all the bolts or is it truly rusted in place. Thanks for any and all assistance! Pics attached to help.

2021 3.0 Base if that is needed as well

UPDATE/EDIT: After taking everyone’s recommendations in this thread I was able to get it off. The dead hammer worked wonders and after a bunch of hits, it popped off. Thanks All for the help!!

Sponsored

 

[Beamerboy]

Hit it with your purse. Jk
But no for real get a hammer and hit where the pads go

 

[SupraYYJ]

But no for real get a hammer and hit where the pads go

Or, as the shop manual says: "Do not under any circumstances strike the friction ring with a hammer or similar tool. If necessary, carefully tap with a rubber mallet against the rear disc chamber."

 

[Beamerboy]

Or, as the shop manual says: "Do not under any circumstances strike the friction ring with a hammer or similar tool. If necessary, carefully tap with a rubber mallet against the rear disc chamber."

That’s what I meant lol

 

[Thraxbert]

Use a dead blow hammer and beat the ? out of it

 

[rowdy]

Thanks for the advice all! I’ll go run to the store to get one of them hammers and see what happens next.

 

[jchadwell]

We call it the BFH. AKA big fucking hammer.

 

[ShakaDaKine]

The last time this happened to me, I used a bolt/nut to break the rotor free...worked like a charm.

 

[tturboman]

If you're changing the rotor I wouldn't worry too much about damaging it. Rubber mallet or if you don't have that, a block of wood and a regular steel hammer. Just hit it.

 

[tracer bullet]

Agreed of course to hitting it with things if those things are softer than the rotor (and you plan to keep it). Will mention 1) PB Blaster is legit, it does get into stuff and free it up, and 2) If you really go to town be sure about how you have the car up in the air and don't knock it off a stand or anything.

 

[RedMKV]

PB blast from the middle area around the hub, tap it gently from behind to knock it loose.

I just did mine but they weren't rusted at all. The rear caliper bolts were a PAIN to remove.

 

[BimmerGuy]

This is why I always liberally coat the hub with anti-seize before putting the rotor back on.

I'm also in the BFH camp here if you are replacing the rotor anyway.

 

[razorlab]

This is why I always liberally coat the hub with anti-seize before putting the rotor back on.

For anyone that tracks their car that is a bad idea. You want that surface medically clean and flat.

 

[BimmerGuy]

For anyone that tracks their car that is a bad idea. You want that surface medically clean and flat.

Maybe I shouldn't have written "liberally" but a light application seems to be just fine. I have been doing this for years on many tracked cars, and haven't lost a wheel yet.

Still, I get your point. I just know I've done brake jobs where I've had to whack and kick and do all kinds of horrible things to get rusted rotors off of the hub.

 

[FuzzyRev]

For anyone that tracks their car that is a bad idea. You want that surface medically clean and flat.

Not to mention the fact that common aluminum anti-seize completely liquifies at those temperatures and then gets slung all over the place.

Granted I personally DO apply some on the hub, and the mating surface of the rim, but I use Nickel-based anti-seize, a layer so thin it hardly exists, and ONLY on the known contact spots. I also don't track the car, so there's that.

https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Nuc...-Lubricant/dp/B0025PMAEC?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

Sponsored