GR Supra Oil on National Backorder

[Escapist]

Don't take your Supra to Toyota for an oil change, they'll end up breaking something. Buy yourself some Amsoil and change it yourself.

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[Loco38SUP]

Everyone has the freedom to use whichever oil they please. But following cookie cutter thinking doesn’t apply to all scenarios.

The heavier weight oils (0w-30, 5w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40) have proven to help with excessive oil consumption. If you own a 2021 or a 2022 with this problem please consider a thicker oil.

This national shortage might be a good thing. More people should be moving to the other oil recommendations as noted in this forum.

-RJM

 

[WSUPRA]

Admittedly, I’ve been quiet on this subject due to the enormous shit-show that arises every time this subject is brought up. This might ruffle some feathers… but unless you are in an consistently hot climate, are tracking your car regularly, or are putting out significantly more power than stock, the recommended 0w-20 will do just fine so long are you are regularly changing your oil (ideally much before the suggested 10k intervals).

The “5w” in 5w-30 means your oil will be more viscous in cold weather. This means it will take longer for your oil to get to your engine during cold starts (if the ambient temperature is cold) opposed to the 0w-20. For owners that live and drive regularly in colder climates, running the 5w-30 may not be ideal for this specific reason.

I agree with the sentiment that the 0w-20 is too thin for track use. The oil will stay much hotter for longer in that environment, which would warrant an oil with a higher “hot” SAE grade such as a 0w-30 or 0w-40.

Before you call me an idiot, I’d recommend taking a minute and learning a bit about oil viscosities and what the downstream impacts of using a heavier/thinner weight oil are. I genuinely thought I understood this subject, but I learned a lot from this video and recommend other people check it out if you are seeking to understand what oil is best for your specific use case.




(skip to 10:12 if you just want to hear what the hypothetical effects of using heavier/thinners oils in your engine are)

 

[D0ubl3T4p]

I’m staying stock performance wise and being in the mid-atlantic it gets fairly cold and hot as well, so I feel like I should just stick with the original. I have a 22 and haven’t noticed oil issues at 1200 so unless there are any I feel I should just follow the cookie cutter route

I also have a 22, and I'm at 2200 miles with no oil consumption issues.

 

[Livedevil]

my dealer in KY had it on back order but they finally got some and changed it, not sure where it came from i didn't ask, 4500 mile and was still max full at time of change on my 21my

 

[Tier1Gear]

Just had my local dealer order some on 10/12....said it would be about a week for the oil to arrive..we shall see.

 

[tadda]

Don't take your Supra to Toyota for an oil change, they'll end up breaking something. Buy yourself some Amsoil and change it yourself.

I had no issues whatsoever...And it was free...I'll pass on the Amsoil too...

 

[xkenx1995]

Have you looked at fcpeuro website? Basically if you order from them you can get free oil changes for life after you get your first kit. I'll link it here. I use the liquimoly kit

 

[SD_MK]

Admittedly, I’ve been quiet on this subject due to the enormous shit-show that arises every time this subject is brought up. This might ruffle some feathers… but unless you are in an consistently hot climate, are tracking your car regularly, or are putting out significantly more power than stock, the recommended 0w-20 will do just fine so long are you are regularly changing your oil (ideally much before the suggested 10k intervals).

The “5w” in 5w-30 means your oil will be more viscous in cold weather. This means it will take longer for your oil to get to your engine during cold starts (if the ambient temperature is cold) opposed to the 0w-20. For owners that live and drive regularly in colder climates, running the 5w-30 may not be ideal for this specific reason.

I agree with the sentiment that the 0w-20 is too thin for track use. The oil will stay much hotter for longer in that environment, which would warrant an oil with a higher “hot” SAE grade such as a 0w-30 or 0w-40.

Before you call me an idiot, I’d recommend taking a minute and learning a bit about oil viscosities and what the downstream impacts of using a heavier/thinner weight oil are. I genuinely thought I understood this subject, but I learned a lot from this video and recommend other people check it out if you are seeking to understand what oil is best for your specific use case.

Beg to differ. There are members in this forum that documented issues on their cars with oil consumption. Their areas of location consist of places that aren't cold as shit and have done soft break ins according to toyotas recommendations. Stock cars too because these guys have or are going to file TSB's. Stock oil is shit, even normal toyota cars are having issues because other cars are running 0w-16 for "fuel economy". These engines weren't mean't to have water as oil.

i'm not gonna disclose people's usernames for the sake of their privacy but here is the general locations of the people who are dealing with consumption.

 

[sikedsyko]

I had to wait a week while the dealer ordered the oil, but I got my oil changed on Saturday.

 

[ToyoBMW]

Have you looked at fcpeuro website? Basically if you order from them you can get free oil changes for life after you get your first kit. I'll link it here. I use the liquimoly kit

Well it'll cost you $20 to send all the crap back, but basically $20 for oil, filter, washer, wiper blades, whatever that would fit in a post office flat rate box. And if you track your car, you can get BMW brakes and rotors too, buy once and have lifetime replacements

 

[WSUPRA]

Beg to differ. There are members in this forum that documented issues on their cars with oil consumption. Their areas of location consist of places that aren't cold as shit and have done soft break ins according to toyotas recommendations. Stock cars too because these guys have or are going to file TSB's. Stock oil is shit, even normal toyota cars are having issues because other cars are running 0w-16 for "fuel economy". These engines weren't mean't to have water as oil.

i'm not gonna disclose people's usernames for the sake of their privacy but here is the general locations of the people who are dealing with consumption.

I think you misunderstood. These are all places would fall into the “consistently hot climate” bucket that I called out in my previous comment. If you are driving your Supra regularly in hot ambient temps, it would be wise to use a a heavier oil.

 

[peppersam740]

Should change the thread title to "Trash Ass Oil on National Backorder"

I've change my oil three times . Allways use Castro.

 

[SD_MK]

I think you misunderstood. These are all places would fall into the “consistently hot climate” bucket that I called out in my previous comment. If you are driving your Supra regularly in hot ambient temps, it would be wise to use a a heavier oil.

Lol i read it wrong then, dismiss my last.


Back to topic, people are getting oil consumption for multiple reasons, the biggest one is that the oil Toyota "recommends" is for fuel economy, they can care less if your motor takes a shit or not because in the heat of the EPA's fuel economy testing, they want to see numbers whether it's higher MPG results and reduces emissions because it's less stress for the motor to rotate with water ass oil. They didn't account for the long term effects as most car manufacturers do. For Example, i had a shop 3rd Gen CTS-V. Manufacturer originally called for 0w-20 before it was superceded to 0w-40 in mid/late 2020. By then, our CTS-V burned off almost 2 quarts before each oil change, and we change them at 6,000 mile intervals. These water ass oil weights aren't meant for sports cars. These are all for "display" so that the EPA doesn't give them the old "kick the bucket" or "increased taxing" for these cars since the numbers are really dramatically changed with thicker oil.

the second reason is proper break in procedure is a HARD break in! Now i'm not saying beat your shit every second of the day, but drive the car like you would if you were "broken in". Everybody does 5+ pulls every time they drive they're Supra, it's in our nature and giving in to our temptations. If you don't do pulls in your Supra, why did you buy it..? Now we have a Shop Evo IX that's fully built, every time we've went in for a block refresh because of constant change of set up, the moment the motor is put back together, the bitch is either strapped on the dyno or tearing up the streets during a street tune with no such thing as "break in" miles lol. The car has had no issues whatsoever because the car is technically being broken in "correctly". All we monitor is oil shavings in break in oil change procedures. (Start up, 50 miles, 250 miles, 500miles, 1000 miles)

another member on this forum quoted this specifically;
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

if you've seen a fresh short block of any car, there is a fine crosshatching that is present within the cylinder bores from "honing". If you've disassembled a block that's been ran for 10,000+ miles, you see and feel that the cylinder bores are smooth to touch, almost like a polished feel.

 

[WSUPRA]

Lol i read it wrong then, dismiss my last.


Back to topic, people are getting oil consumption for multiple reasons, the biggest one is that the oil Toyota "recommends" is for fuel economy, they can care less if your motor takes a shit or not because in the heat of the EPA's fuel economy testing, they want to see numbers whether it's higher MPG results and reduces emissions because it's less stress for the motor to rotate with water ass oil. They didn't account for the long term effects as most car manufacturers do. For Example, i had a shop 3rd Gen CTS-V. Manufacturer originally called for 0w-20 before it was superceded to 0w-40 in mid/late 2020. By then, our CTS-V burned off almost 2 quarts before each oil change, and we change them at 6,000 mile intervals. These water ass oil weights aren't meant for sports cars. These are all for "display" so that the EPA doesn't give them the old "kick the bucket" or "increased taxing" for these cars since the numbers are really dramatically changed with thicker oil.

the second reason is proper break in procedure is a HARD break in! Now i'm not saying beat your shit every second of the day, but drive the car like you would if you were "broken in". Everybody does 5+ pulls every time they drive they're Supra, it's in our nature and giving in to our temptations. If you don't do pulls in your Supra, why did you buy it..? Now we have a Shop Evo IX that's fully built, every time we've went in for a block refresh because of constant change of set up, the moment the motor is put back together, the bitch is either strapped on the dyno or tearing up the streets during a street tune with no such thing as "break in" miles lol. The car has had no issues whatsoever because the car is technically being broken in "correctly". All we monitor is oil shavings in break in oil change procedures. (Start up, 50 miles, 250 miles, 500miles, 1000 miles)

another member on this forum quoted this specifically;
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

if you've seen a fresh short block of any car, there is a fine crosshatching that is present within the cylinder bores from "honing". If you've disassembled a block that's been ran for 10,000+ miles, you see and feel that the cylinder bores are smooth to touch, almost like a polished feel.

Not trying to disregard your personal experience at all. Respectfully, how many years of experience do you have in mechanical engineering or designing engines?

Curious to see how that stacks up against Toyota, BMW, or Jason from Engineering Explained.

He goes in depth regarding the trend of why car manufacturers are using thinner oils. I’d recommend watching the video, so you can gain a better understanding of why they are doing this (spoiler alert: it’s not just fuel economy but it is a big factor).

Moreover, looking at the data a majority of Supra owners do not suffer from oil consumption issues. It’s a reach to point solely at the 0w-20 and say that is the biggest reason for consumption. Logically, a heavier oil would mask this problem up, but not address the root cause of consumption.

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