What is an absolute needed change for time/grip track use?

AdamP

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I have been driving GRIP/DRIFT since 2006.




I'm not looking for what's your next mod I am asking what is a weak point. Other than following Jackie Ding on youtube I don't see a lot of actual MK5 track use. I've spoke with only 1 person who tracks an A91 and I'm looking for the what needs to be done most info. I'm not new to track days but I know all cars have a weakness. Other than camber plates what can be recommended for a 2022+ model? I'll probably start with all the Verus cooling stuff and camber plates.
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AdamP

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Been tracking since 2006. Drift and grip. I'm more or less asking what is a common failure like factory pads, brake fluids, ect.
 

Suggs.OR

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100% this.

But for me though Iā€™m going to upgrade to a wider tire and set of track wheels along with coilovers as my next major thing. Iā€™m on oem wheels and HKS lowering springs at the moment. Loved how the car has handled to this point. Toyota has done a great job imo
 

BadOne

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For the most part, wheels & pads.
285/35s in the back / 265/35s in the front do wonders to help in the corners.

Since you've been tracking for a while, I would go with just those and let your experience tell you what the car needs.
 

dzeleski

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Tires, springs or coils, pads, brake fluid, rear aero. The rotors also canā€™t handle a full session, need to take a partial cool lap mid way to get them to the end.

IMO donā€™t bother going to the track without better tires, pads, and brake fluid at a minimum.
 
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AdamP

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The rotors also canā€™t handle a full session, need to take a partial cool lap mid way to get them to the end.

IMO donā€™t bother going to the track without better tires, pads, and brake fluid at a minimum.
This! Thank you.
285/35s in the back / 265/35s in the front do wonders to help in the corners.
I prefer square setups so I'll be 275/40/18 all around.
 

razorlab

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OEM rotors are fine, dzeleski is on a weird mission after going to tail of the dragon (not an actual race track) to say they aren't capable even though it's 1000% proven otherwise with multiple people tracking them and even winning their class with no issues. Upgrading brake pads and fluid is a must for significant track use though, like most cars.

Highly suggest CSG C21/C11 brake pads or if you don't want to drop almost $1k on pads, the Project Mu Club Racers are pretty good for half the price.

Endless or SRF brake fluid. Pick your poison on track tires, 200tw or 100tw. A052 are top performers but don't last long and hate heat.

First thing before all the above, is getting a good alignment as the oem alignment is pretty trash.

Keep the fuel tank topped off if you have grippy tires and are at a track with a lot of right turns or you will fuel starve.

Those are the basics. After that, it's a downward spiral, as you probably know, so it's up to you how much you want to modify.
 
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dzeleski

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OEM rotors are fine, dzeleski is on a weird mission after going to tail of the dragon (not an actual race track) to say they aren't capable even though it's 1000% proven otherwise with multiple people tracking them and even winning their class with no issues. Upgrading brake pads and fluid is a must for significant track use though, like most cars.

Highly suggest CSG C21/C11 brake pads or if you don't want to drop almost $1k on pads, the Project Mu Club Racers are pretty good for half the price.

Endless or SRF brake fluid. Pick your poison on track tires, 200tw or 100tw. A052 are top performers but don't last long and hate heat.

First thing before all the above, is getting a good alignment as the oem alignment is pretty trash.

Keep the fuel tank topped off if you have grippy tires and are at a track with a lot of right turns or you will fuel starve.

Those are the basics. After that, it's a downward spiral, as you probably know, so it's up to you how much you want to modify.
Weird Iā€™m at NJMP right now and they arenā€™t keeping up with CSG CP pads on stock rotors. I ran out of time to swap my rotors on and am regretting it. Whatever floats your boat though. I also made one post about it, you are acting like I post daily about rotors or something.

There is a big difference between a coupe hot laps for a TT and substained time for 20-25 min.
 
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AdamP

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Most of my track time right now is ether 15 or 20 min sessions. The Verus brake cooling kit is on my list for sure.

After that, it's a downward spiral, as you probably know, so it's up to you how much you want to modify.
Not trying to go over board to quickly, still need to finish my 3 rotor FD3s. Which has been am expensive spiral.
 

razorlab

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Weird Iā€™m at NJMP right now and they arenā€™t keeping up with CSG CP pads on stock rotors. I ran out of time to swap my rotors on and am regretting it. Whatever floats your boat though. I also made one post about it, you are acting like I post daily about rotors or something.

There is a big difference between a coupe hot laps for a TT and substained time for 20-25 min.
Which CP pads? You arenā€™t talking about the hybrid street/track pads are you? If so, get some actual track pads! You literally have a completely different experience than other track drivers, including myself. I had no problems at NJMP. I do 20-30 min sessions at Palmer and Pocono which has wayyyyyy higher speeds than NJMP.

What is actually happening when you state ā€œthey canā€™t keep upā€?
 

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Other than the basics that everyone mentioned, the factory intercooler will heatsoak on a warm day after a couple sessions. New intake manifolds are a pretty penny though, so not something I recommend doing until you've done all the more foundational stuff.
 

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Weird Iā€™m at NJMP right now and they arenā€™t keeping up with CSG CP pads on stock rotors. I ran out of time to swap my rotors on and am regretting it. Whatever floats your boat though. I also made one post about it, you are acting like I post daily about rotors or something.

There is a big difference between a coupe hot laps for a TT and substained time for 20-25 min.
Curious, whatā€™s your pace at NJMP such that your rotors canā€™t keep up?
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