Quick jacks arrived, first oil change tomorrow.

Davedaveee

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Would you torque the Fumoto Valve at around 25 nm like you would the drain bolt? Sorry I am new to this. Will do my research but figure I would ask first from people who have used it.
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Guppy3.0

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@Low flyer is your car lowered? My supra isn't here yet and I plan on lowering it pretty shortly after it arrives. I want to get QJ 7000tl because I have an suv also. But from reading, supra has 4.4" of ground clearance, and QJ states it (7000tl) is less than 4" tall. I'm concerned that the 7000tl may be too tall to fit under the supra after it's lowered. Any feedback you have is appreciated, thanks
 

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@Low flyer is your car lowered? My supra isn't here yet and I plan on lowering it pretty shortly after it arrives. I want to get QJ 7000tl because I have an suv also. But from reading, supra has 4.4" of ground clearance, and QJ states it (7000tl) is less than 4" tall. I'm concerned that the 7000tl may be too tall to fit under the supra after it's lowered. Any feedback you have is appreciated, thanks
You simply drive up on some 1x6 wood pieces before sliding the QJ under. Easy.
 

DHarkKnight10

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I have a set of the 5000TL for the Supra and at set of the 7000TL for my Hawk and the wife's ExST. Both have been a breeze to work with whether it's oil changes or exhaust swaps or anything else that requires me to get under the vehicle. PS Having a Vyper creeper makes things 10x easier too.

Although I'm fairly confident in the QJ's, I did pick up a couple sets of 10" Race Ramps wheel cribs to place under all 4 wheels while the vehicle is up in the air for added security and safety. Each crib is rated for 1500 lbs ea. https://www.raceramps.com/cribs/wheel/p/rr-wc-10/
 

DHarkKnight10

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@Low flyer is your car lowered? My supra isn't here yet and I plan on lowering it pretty shortly after it arrives. I want to get QJ 7000tl because I have an suv also. But from reading, supra has 4.4" of ground clearance, and QJ states it (7000tl) is less than 4" tall. I'm concerned that the 7000tl may be too tall to fit under the supra after it's lowered. Any feedback you have is appreciated, thanks
I'm lowered on Swift Springs and the 7000TL do NOT fit under the Supra. The 5000TL do though with enough room for jack pad to fit as well. (I own both sets of QJs). If you want to use the 7000TL on a lowered Supra then you'll have to drive up on some wood blocks or race ramps first.
 

concept

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When I changed my C5's oil and MX5's transmission and diff fluids, I'd drive up on homemade wooden ramps, then use my hydraulic floor jack to raise the front, then rear. Rhino ramps were placed under the front tires, and jack stands, front and rear. The HFJ was left at the rear as a backup.

Elevation2.JPG
 
OP
OP

Low flyer

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Guppy3.0, my supra is stock. It's not a problem with 7000TL, but I have to put the blocks on the ramps after the ramps are under the car.
 

RaceReX

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On a lighter note, my fiancee bought me the Legos Avengers Tower for christmas and my first two hours of the build was organizing, itemizing and verifying 40 packets of legos and going through the three books of instructinos. It drove me crazy that there is a crap load of extra bricks and parts.
Kind of like the friends, who when you are rebuilding an engine, throw an extra part (bearing, piston ring, washer, etc.) into the pile when you back is turne….
 

RaceReX

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Also, for the OP, and maybe others.

on one of the BMW threads, I remember a gentleman was lowering his car back down, and did not check that on one side the locking mechanism stayed locked, and the other did not.

the result was that the Jack on the side that was still locked eventually shot out the side and did some tremendous damage to other things in the garage. Luckily the user was not injured in that particular instance.

just make sure when it is lowering that both locks come free, and the car is coming down equally on both sides. Kind of freaked me out when I read that incident on the BMW forum
 

AutoDelight

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Kind of like the friends, who when you are rebuilding an engine, throw an extra part (bearing, piston ring, washer, etc.) into the pile when you back is turne….
Those friends will no longer be friends
 
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RaceRex, I've already figured that out, but good point to those who haven't.

I get down on the floor and look under the car at both jacks to make sure that they each get over the stops and that they are going down evenly.

I do the same thing when going up too. I make sure that each jack is beyond the stop and that it locks on the stop.

You would think that it would be an obvious thing, but after reading some threads on this forum, I wonder.
 

Killswitch24

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@RaceReX,

While not trying to discredit that experience. Properly bled quickjacks should raise and lower at the same rate. Also, before lowering, you must raise the jack and manually lift each locking bar (R and L) and they can't re-lock unless you go back up. Very much like an extension ladder. That being said, ladders can sometimes be a pain in the ass, but my point is that the quickjack system is not necessarily flawed.
 
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OP

Low flyer

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@RaceReX,

While not trying to discredit that experience. Properly bled quickjacks should raise and lower at the same rate. Also, before lowering, you must raise the jack and manually lift each locking bar (R and L) and they can't re-lock unless you go back up. Very much like an extension ladder. That being said, ladders can sometimes be a pain in the ass, but my point is that the quickjack system is not necessarily flawed.
You need to lift the locking bar when lifted to its maximum height only. On the lower height pushing the raise button to slightly raise the vehicle and then pushing the down button lowers it.

I don't think that anyone stated that they are flawed. RaceReX only related a story of what was probably operator error.
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