Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[sams2k]

I vote camber plates

can you please explain?
the LCA seems like a much simple solution

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[Rocksandblues]

For anyone that does a lot of racing/ track days - wondering if this makes sense and if so is anyone doing it.

I know on round/oval tracks you would have neg on one side and pos on the other but most track we would normally do have a lot of turns.

depending on the direction of the track do you set more camber on one side of the car

please delete your post- will be confusing to people looking for worthwhile information

 

[Rocksandblues]

can you please explain?
the LCA seems like a much simple solution

Search LCA issues. There have been more than anecdotal number. The German geometer is tricky and about 1/2 issue are with install and set up. And 1/2 the product itself.

If you are just tracking occasionally or just want a little camber for whatever the reason, plates are much more fool proof . .02

 

[razorlab]

For anyone that does a lot of racing/ track days - wondering if this makes sense and if so is anyone doing it.

I know on round/oval tracks you would have neg on one side and pos on the other but most track we would normally do have a lot of turns.

depending on the direction of the track do you set more camber on one side of the car

Yes you could and a lot of people do it. @garudathree does this at Lime Rock (all right turns except for one left). He maxes out his left camber when he gets to the track.

 

[Islindur]

what is the benefit of more camber in the front?
and should the car have more camber in the front then in the back?

More contact area when tires are flexing in turns = more overall grip

 

[sams2k]

More contact area when tires are flexing in turns = more overall grip

and when you know that you need more camber ?
by examining tire wear ?

 

[Islindur]

and when you know that you need more camber ?
by examining tire wear ?

ye, u can measure temps too. I dont want my semi tires to end too fast coz they r expensive and u will wear sides faster than thread itself. I'd say -3f, -2b is a good start for track setup.

 

[kyle9]

For anyone that does a lot of racing/ track days - wondering if this makes sense and if so is anyone doing it.

I know on round/oval tracks you would have neg on one side and pos on the other but most track we would normally do have a lot of turns.

depending on the direction of the track do you set more camber on one side of the car

yeah but there are very few road courses where this really helps. One is LRP like @razorlab mentioned. If you have a couple turns or more in each directions it doesn’t really make sense - it’s a lot easier to lose a lot of time in the corners you aren’t set up for versus gaining time in the other corners.

 

[noogie]

Sure why not, I am just not at all familiar with Penske gear. I have had two sets of MCS and two sets of Ohlins in the past, but in BMW/Porsche land no one is using Penske stuff really. With high end dampers I think the performance is broadly similar, it just comes down to support/shop knowledge/platform. For example Bilstein make some great stuff and so do KW, but the support for the US just isn't really there.

This is from the owner of Shaftworks. But he essentially said penskes if you want the last bit of performance and willing to do more frequent rebuilds. JRZ and MCS most likely acquire their parts from the same supplier and you get a bit more mileage out of them before needing a rebuild.

 

[FLtrackdays]

For anyone that does a lot of racing/ track days - wondering if this makes sense and if so is anyone doing it.

I know on round/oval tracks you would have neg on one side and pos on the other but most track we would normally do have a lot of turns.

depending on the direction of the track do you set more camber on one side of the car

Few tracks need that kind of setup (NASCAR) style. Daytona is one of them. My track day there was canceled last year due to an unforeseen event (at the track). But I was setup for that track much differently than Sebring or Homestead. Mainly due to the banking. You can find more info here:

http://racelinecentral.com/RacingSetupGuide.html

Like Bob (Rock) said I can’t imagine many people needing to do that. Until I saw Bryan’s post, lol. I guess some people do it more that I thought. It’s definitely more advanced to adjust for each track. But that’s what the pros do for sure. Or someone with the ability to to trackside setups & knowledge.

can you please explain?
the LCA seems like a much simple solution

Camber plates are much easier for shops to adjust or do yourself. When you start getting into adjustable LCAs, you’ll need a shop that is well versed on adjusting them. Or able to do it yourself (like some guys on here). When you have both you can tilt the top inward and the bottom outward. I wouldn’t expect a big box dealer to align/adjust the car. Even if they think they can, I’d recommend not doing that. *(don’t ask me why I know ?)*

and when you know that you need more camber ?
by examining tire wear ?

Yessir! I did this for exactly that reason. Especially when you start getting more comfortable in the car = faster. Bryan (Razorlab) has an amazing build page. You can see he started out with less camber (up front) and has been dialing in more over time.

 

[Traxion]

I picked up a set of MCS 2WR suspension from a someone local to me and was hoping someone here could send me a picture of a fully built front shock. Ideally both uninstalled and installed. Or if I can get some guidance on what all from the OEM shock I need to move over such as this white plastic piece, the dust boots, and bump stop.

Somewhat related, I'm also changing the steering knuckle so if anyone has torque specs for all of the bolts in the related area, and the top hats for the suspension I'd be grateful.

 

[razorlab]

I picked up a set of MCS 2WR suspension from a someone local to me and was hoping someone here could send me a picture of a fully built front shock. Ideally both uninstalled and installed. Or if I can get some guidance on what all from the OEM shock I need to move over such as this white plastic piece, the dust boots, and bump stop.

Somewhat related, I'm also changing the steering knuckle so if anyone has torque specs for all of the bolts in the related area, and the top hats for the suspension I'd be grateful.

You don't use anything from the OEM shocks.

Here are my MCS 2WNR:

 

[Ryan T]

7,4,and 5. 5 goes on the aluminum perch for BS.

 

[noogie]

I picked up a set of MCS 2WR suspension from a someone local to me and was hoping someone here could send me a picture of a fully built front shock. Ideally both uninstalled and installed. Or if I can get some guidance on what all from the OEM shock I need to move over such as this white plastic piece, the dust boots, and bump stop.

Somewhat related, I'm also changing the steering knuckle so if anyone has torque specs for all of the bolts in the related area, and the top hats for the suspension I'd be grateful.

are you trying to build a B Street legal shock? pictures of the MCS would help.

 

[Traxion]

are you trying to build a B Street legal shock? pictures of the MCS would help.

I'll upload some pics when I get home. Yes they're Tolleson's MCS he was selling so I should be able to get them fully legal but I don't care too much about being nationally legal, just close enough that my local competitors won't care but I reap the benefit of better suspension for the track.

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