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2023 MT Supra Clutch Replacement Options

tracer bullet

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unless it's somehow been a faulty unit to start with.
On those cars it was so common it could have been that or a poor design or spec'd part. Do agree it's unlikely in this case.
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Ace of Laces

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Just got my car back from installing the new twin disk and CDV delete
I went with: PTB Racing Twin Disk, Organic x2, standard pressure plate, Dual Mass Flywheel

it feels so so similar to a 992 911 clutch now. I’m still in the break in period but so far feels awesome and the pedal isn’t too different from OEM
 

BananaBoi

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I got the same clutch but after the install i have this click feeling in my clutch pedal when I press down. Did this happen for you too?
Yes i had this. The plastic clutch pedal is bending. Install the bushing kit for the pedal and it should resolve. Mine was bending enough that it wouldn't let me start the car in hot weather. Havent had any issues since installing the kit.
 

Sivleton

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Just got my car back from installing the new twin disk and CDV delete
I went with: PTB Racing Twin Disk, Organic x2, standard pressure plate, Dual Mass Flywheel

it feels so so similar to a 992 911 clutch now. I’m still in the break in period but so far feels awesome and the pedal isn’t too different from OEM
Is rev hang still there or is it better ? Been wondering can You achieve smaller rev hang without deleting dual mass fly wheel
 

lucky phil

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Is rev hang still there or is it better ? Been wondering can You achieve smaller rev hang without deleting dual mass fly wheel
Typically complained about rev hang is not an issue created by the flywheel.
Phil
 

Echo29

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Changed the pin and bushing kit today. Now my brake lights are stuck on.
Also, coincidentally I got a cel code 1b9508.
Everything seems to be working fine. Should I just clear the code?
 

lucky phil

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Changed the pin and bushing kit today. Now my brake lights are stuck on.
Also, coincidentally I got a cel code 1b9508.
Everything seems to be working fine. Should I just clear the code?
The last time this cropped up was here. https://www.supramkv.com/threads/1b9508.14903/
If it's something thats arisen since you were working under the dash and you have a brake light issue then I suspect some form of wiring connector is unhooked or damaged.
 

Echo29

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Echo29

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The last time this cropped up was here. https://www.supramkv.com/threads/1b9508.14903/
If it's something thats arisen since you were working under the dash and you have a brake light issue then I suspect some form of wiring connector is unhooked or damaged.
Yeah CEL comes on right after getting the brake system light and shutting the car off and turning it back on. It's consistently the same. I'm glad its nothing too serious.
 

Echo29

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Just to update after a couple thousand miles. Clutch is much better and had the clutch pedal bushing kit installed after 500 miles on the new clutch.

The increased pedal pressure does not do well with the plastic pedal. It was bending and causing issues for driving. The bushing kit has resolved that. Hopefully someone comes out with a metal pedal as an aftermarket option as well. I would definitely recommend the clutch pedal bushing kit from clutchmasters for any upgraded clutch.

Now that it's broken in, it still stiff but tolerable for daily driving. Been holding power just fine for me. I'm making marginally above stock power though.
Hey man does your clutch squeak in first gear when rolling from a stop? It doesn't happen all the time though
 

swrdply400mrelay

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Anyone have a Uniclutch?

The very few reviews I’ve seen have been positive, though I’m weary.

How can the race clutch be less than half the price of the PTB? Being able to reuse r the stock flywheel saves cost, but I can’t imagine it being that much.

I asked Uniclutch the differences between their sport and track models:

“The sport is more forgiving than the track due to the material in the discs. Neither of them like being slipped on purpose.

The sport is good for road driving with a bit of spirited driving, the track is good for a lot of spirited driving but is ok for road use as well.”

I’m not sure what they mean by “neither of them liked being slipped”. I’m guessing it means hard to change gears smoothly?
 

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I’m not sure what they mean by “neither of them liked being slipped”. I’m guessing it means hard to change gears smoothly?
They are probably using sintered or ceramic discs which generate a lot of heat while slipping and that can cause damage to your flywheel and the clutch discs. By slipping they mean partially engaging the clutch or not releasing the pressure plate completely.

Gear changes should be fine. Its just that you would need to rev up a bit while taking off in 1st gear. Which is expected for such materials as they grab the flywheel immediately. This is also referred to as the "on/off switch" feeling. But if you rev match perfectly, it should be smooth.
 

lucky phil

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Anyone have a Uniclutch?

The very few reviews I’ve seen have been positive, though I’m weary.

How can the race clutch be less than half the price of the PTB? Being able to reuse r the stock flywheel saves cost, but I can’t imagine it being that much.

I asked Uniclutch the differences between their sport and track models:

“The sport is more forgiving than the track due to the material in the discs. Neither of them like being slipped on purpose.

The sport is good for road driving with a bit of spirited driving, the track is good for a lot of spirited driving but is ok for road use as well.”

I’m not sure what they mean by “neither of them liked being slipped”. I’m guessing it means hard to change gears smoothly?
What they mean by this is that they aren't the clutch for a newbe clutch person or for someone that drives around in stop start traffic and has no finesse with a clutch. It will have greater initial bite than a stock clutch and if you let you wife or mate with no idea or a learner drive it they will be stalling it all the time. Nothing to do with shift action.
As for the cost, it's cheaper because they make the same clutch assembly for a variety of cars and then use an adaptor to suit a particular application, so you get economies of scale. I like the fact they have made an effort to make a multiplate clutch that doesn't rattle at idle due to anti rattle springs as opposed to other manufacturers that expect you to put up with idle chatter from the clutch esp as it wears. Most aftermarket clutches I see are pretty much neanderthal engineering and just use heavier spring/s and more aggressive materials and expect the customer to work out their left leg at the gym. On top of that half of them just adapt what they make for each application and let the customer figure out the shortcomings with thrust bearing clearance and pedal effort flexing the pedal and the rest so it's not like they are a "bespoke" item anyway. For a road car don't even think about using a solid/lightweight flywheel.
Full disclosure, I like the Uniclutch from an engineering perspective although I have no personal experience with one.
Phil
 
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PowerGetter

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I just got back from Laguna Seca last weekend after breaking-in a new Clutchmasters FX1000 twin disc with aluminum flywheel. I'm aware of the thread of people having had some issues with it so I was hesitant to run the setup. However, it was free. A shop offered to test something "new" from clutchmasters, so I agreed. Is it a new or upgraded version of their FX1000? No idea.

I did the standard/recommended 500 mile break-in with a majority of the driving being in the city. The clutch pedal felt a little stiffer but it wasn't too far off from stock. I also installed their bushing kit for the clutch pedal/master cylinder. I highly recommend this as OEM "pins: are plastic and are prone to fail/potentially snap under heavy pressure.

Had no issues during the track event. It performed well and held power with no slip. My post isn't intended to persuade anyone to buy or even try the FX1000. Do your research and make your own decision. Just wanted to add to yall's research data points.
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