Grady60
Well-Known Member
That’s quite a build. I don’t know a lot about car audio but I’m curious. Did you ever consider a Bazooka sub instead of the custom enclosure?
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When you say bazooka, are you referring to a powered sub enclosure? Yes I did weigh my options of placing one over the oem enclosure but I preferred a more catered look.That’s quite a build. I don’t know a lot about car audio but I’m curious. Did you ever consider a Bazooka sub instead of the custom enclosure?
Yes, that’s what I meant.When you say bazooka, are you referring to a powered sub enclosure? Yes I did weigh my options of placing one over the oem enclosure but I preferred a more catered look.
Yep, this was 100% of the apprehension I had when previously considering the OEM+ solution. The problem isn't as much a lack of impact or extension of the sub-bass... it's the 100Hz-500Hz region that needs the most help. Even at 300Hz, you're talking about ~4 foot wavelengths (45.2 inches). Expecting a 4" transducer to create that within a semi-sealed enclosure (with near zero volume) is a monumental ask - no matter who makes it or what exotic materials are involved. Especially while also handling the busiest midrange region as well (and from a position ~1.5 feet away from the tweeters).2 Month Review:
Now that a couple months have passed with extensive seat time and some basic tuning I have come to the conclusion that the system is still lacking. I still plan to continue the Stage 2 Tuning part for front stage imaging and matching a target house curve.
The issue we have ,that was overlooked, is the cabin speakers ability to play low frequencies. The 4" mids can only play so low due to their size. This caused limitations in increasing the gain on the mids which in return limited the mid bass presence in the car. I can see why the oem subs were playing the mid bass as well. This vehicle needs a 3-way front stage if one did not desire their subs to play up to 150 Hz. A good way to have done this is to utilize the oem sub location as the mid bass woofers. Though in my situation that is too late.
The system will need to go under the knife again start of October. I'll post details on that when we get closer to my Appt. During that time we will finalize the details and form a solid game plan.
Talking with the shop we will stick with 2-way active fronts and retrofit a 6.5 woofer to replace the 4" woofer. The 4" woofer will go to the back as a 1-way active setup (no tweeter) and play as "rear fill."Yep, this was 100% of the apprehension I had when previously considering the OEM+ solution. The problem isn't as much a lack of impact or extension of the sub-bass... it's the 100Hz-500Hz region that needs the most help. Even at 300Hz, you're talking about ~4 foot wavelengths (45.2 inches). Expecting a 4" transducer to create that within a semi-sealed enclosure (with near zero volume) is a monumental ask - no matter who makes it or what exotic materials are involved. Especially while also handling the busiest midrange region as well (and from a position ~1.5 feet away from the tweeters).
Naturally, if you're chasing SPL not SQ - then not as much of a concern, but I don't usually listen to EDM so it is a concern of mine.
Too bad there's not really enough room to roll something like this (in an FJ):
So the 6.5's are going in the place of the original rears? That seems like it would be pretty good since it fires to the sides and is even closer than the factory subs. Where will the new fill go? On the back of your custom sub enclosure firing forward?Talking with the shop we will stick with 2-way active fronts and retrofit a 6.5 woofer to replace the 4" woofer. The 4" woofer will go to the back as a 1-way active setup (no tweeter) and play as "rear fill."
No, the shop is making custom door panels to replace the front Focal 4" driver only with a Focal 6.5" driver. The Focal 4" driver will then go where the stock rear components are, no tweeters for rear fill.So the 6.5's are going in the place of the original rears? That seems like it would be pretty good since it fires to the sides and is even closer than the factory subs. Where will the new fill go? On the back of your custom sub enclosure firing forward?
I'm still holding on my install since apparently we need the factory amp in place for the firmware update (brake booster recall). Gotta love how much like Apple the car electronics are.
Wouldn't be a plug and play solution since mounting the 6.5" will require custom work on the door itself too.I wish someone made custom 6 and half inch door cards so we could get good speakers with midbass.
Really? can is that true? I don't believe it is? unless its the ASD unit that uses the canbus and needs to be visible to the car.So the 6.5's are going in the place of the original rears? That seems like it would be pretty good since it fires to the sides and is even closer than the factory subs. Where will the new fill go? On the back of your custom sub enclosure firing forward?
I'm still holding on my install since apparently we need the factory amp in place for the firmware update (brake booster recall). Gotta love how much like Apple the car electronics are.
Its interesting.... This issue really concerned me when I started out on my system. However maybe because I used a single audison low profile subwoofer mounted upwards it was better at dealing with midbass providing enough midbass fill to cater for this just like the OEM rear subs. If you listen to the OEM system those 4inch rear fill speakers hardly do anything.So the 6.5's are going in the place of the original rears? That seems like it would be pretty good since it fires to the sides and is even closer than the factory subs. Where will the new fill go? On the back of your custom sub enclosure firing forward?
I'm still holding on my install since apparently we need the factory amp in place for the firmware update (brake booster recall). Gotta love how much like Apple the car electronics are.
Sadly. Marketing thought it was a good idea and Toyota raided the BMW leftover parts bin.@dazza - as far as the recall, I think it simply checks for the existence of all expected "peripherals" to the head unit as part of it's preparation phase. AFAIK there isn't any part of the update which specifically targets the amp, ASD, etc. - but I guess it queries the canbus for some reason. Someone with the OEM+ solution said it caused it to fail... so grain of salt and all that, but it makes sense because of how most BMW maintenance deals with error codes, etc.
I totally agree as far as porting is concerned... without additional tuning all it's really doing is creating a sense of slightly more extension - after all, it's not like they're tuned ports... they're just allowing back-pressure release.
Considering the near total lack of damping, poor panel quality, loose wiring, etc. it's pretty clear the entire interior of the Supra was somewhat of an afterthought... the audio is just a part of that. Despite it being a 2ch setup, they went with the "more speakers = better sound" paradigm, which is common - but never a good thing IMO.