OEM Audio+ High Resolution Audio Amp and Subwoofer

[joeyliv]

Desperation. Lol I am trying to get the photo without taking my car apart again. I installed am Mobridge amp and we are having trouble getting all the speakers to work. So we need to customize the harness to get it right. So if I can find out what pins and what wires go to what speakers I can save time and one less time I need to take apart the hatch.

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[TangoTangerine]

Don't suppose anyone did this with the Tuxmats?

 

[METAL]

Desperation. Lol I am trying to get the photo without taking my car apart again. I installed am Mobridge amp and we are having trouble getting all the speakers to work. So we need to customize the harness to get it right. So if I can find out what pins and what wires go to what speakers I can save time and one less time I need to take apart the hatch.

Just take it by the shop I used in the valley for my mobridge install.

 

[ericchen_ec]

Messaged oemplus a couple of questions regarding their collaboration with Orellaacoustics. They mentioned that the 2 speakers in the back were repurposed to be mid woofers. So I guess they changed their minds about deleting the 2 speakers originally. Does anyone have any input on how it sounds now that they are now functional again? was the purchase worth it even more after this adjustment?

 

[Janice]

Glad to hear that they are increasing the mids with the unused speaker. The system oem+ system uses a Mobridge most25 signal processor followed by a match 7 channel amp and a cheap small mono amp. On my harness it appeared that many of the speakers don’t work because the connection isn’t connected, relying on the tuning to make the front speakers do most the work. I am curious how they get 7+ channels? Do they replace the harness or is it all done with tuning?

 

[Janice]

Don't suppose anyone did this with the Tuxmats?

Tuxmat is a no go! Best trunk liner though, so maybe be creative and modify. I plan to do that to mine eventually.

 

[ericchen_ec]

Glad to hear that they are increasing the mids with the unused speaker. The system oem+ system uses a Mobridge most25 signal processor followed by a match 7 channel amp and a cheap small mono amp. On my harness it appeared that many of the speakers don’t work because the connection isn’t connected, relying on the tuning to make the front speakers do most the work. I am curious how they get 7+ channels? Do they replace the harness or is it all done with tuning?

That’s a good question, you should reach out to them and let me know what they do, curious as well!

 

[tadda]

Messaged oemplus a couple of questions regarding their collaboration with Orellaacoustics. They mentioned that the 2 speakers in the back were repurposed to be mid woofers. So I guess they changed their minds about deleting the 2 speakers originally. Does anyone have any input on how it sounds now that they are now functional again? was the purchase worth it even more after this adjustment?

That's great news...

I suggested to these guys over 2 years ago that rather than delete the OE subs that they utilize them as mid bass speakers during initial development discussions with them....

 

[Janice]

That’s a good question, you should reach out to them and let me know what they do, curious as well!

I did reach out to Orella and they confirmed that the system from OEM+ that has a 7 channel amp and a 1 channel amp is going to have all speakers working with new tuning provided by OEM +.
The old OEM+ system will require upgrades on the OEM+ side.
I reached out to OEM+ about providing tuning if we upgrade and I have yet to hear anything.

 

[yo dude]

I recently installed the latest OEM Audio+ system and I'm happy with it. That's the tl;dr. Now the long one.

I'm not an audio guy. Prior to owning the Supra I never thought about my car's audio system. I drove all my past cars with stock speakers.

I just got the Supra a few months ago. When I was cross-shopping cars I deliberately did NOT test drive the Supra or even sit in the cabin because I knew I'd talk myself out of it if I found anything wrong. So after signing the paperwork and peeling off the lot, I instantly noticed how bad my music sounded on the long drive home. First time in my life I ever had an actual opinion on audio quality.

So when I get home late at night, my wife howls, "OMG IZ DATTA" and I stomp right past her to my laptop (also with built-in stock speakers) so I could Google "Supra Audio SUPRA BAD". I find this forum, and within minutes I had an OBDLink in the mail. My wife's now making fake B58 engine drone noises at my car from the kitchen window, so I obviously choose expedited shipping to disable both ASDs right away.

Disabling ASD made the music better, but it's still bad.

So now I'm reading the entire Godlike Tadda thread. I'm making frequent drive-by trips to the local fabric store, deciding whether to pull the trigger on foam and stuffing to do the God Mod.

Cops probably think I'm casing the place and I can feel their eyes on me, but I'm literally just trying to make Dua Lipa sound normal. Officer, you gotta believe me. Just sit in my car. "Damn son, u rite"

Anyway, before committing to punching holes and stuffing woofers, I removed the woofer panel and tweaked the EQ to simulate the Full Tadda mod. Basically, "Tadda on the Cheap". And TotC was a very good improvement, which made me want more. But given my audio system was still stock, I felt I had an opportunity to comparison test an aftermarket system.

So I committed and purchased the latest OEM Audio+ Kit.

The parts arrived with some missing cables, which actually ended up being a super cool experience. OEM Audio+'s support is EXCELLENT. When I called for follow up questions, I got to chat with Sandy (owner) who shared a ton of info and some history with me.

First, their original idea was to do a true physical delete of the stock 8" dual subs, and replace it with an OEM looking storage compartment. I said woah. I'm super interested. <takemymoney.jpg> The team had plans nearly complete, but in the end nixed the idea. Reasoning is in order to delete the full sub assembly, the whole center console must also be removed. The main screws holding the subwoofer assembly are underneath all that. The install complexity goes way up. It's unclear to me if the idea was to do something similar to what CJ did back in 2021, or to do something even more dramatic by deleting even deeper into the assembly and recover even more storage space. Either way, I'm still sorta intrigued. But I get this would blow up the install time, and may have been a very daunting install for many.

Second, the Z4 and Supra share many similarities but also differences. The Z4 chassis has the woofer in a different orientation than the Supra, and placed in the trunk which acts as an enclosure. In comparison, not only did the Supra place the subs in a bad spot... the woofers are floating on moldings such that the air can't exit properly. The Tadda God Mod helps to mitigate these design flaws. But the positioning and placement of the Supra stock woofers was a peculiar design choice, which makes the Supra system seem like it was an afterthought.

Third, the current generation OEM Audio+ kit repurposes the 8" subs to Mid Base (60~90Hz) to bridge the smaller speakers. Reasoning is exactly as stated by previous posters. Many folks have e-mailed OA+ to take in Tadda's feedback. OEM Audio+ received, listened, and responded to the community. And here we are in 2024, going into 2025!

Fourth, is Front Stage and Rear Effects. You don't watch TV with your head turned back. You watch it facing forward. The key sounds should arrive from the front, but most cars have no directional focus. OEM Audio+ purposely puts the sound stage in front of you, because they feel this is more captivating. You risk losing this impact if the speakers incorrectly attack from the rear, so OEM Audio+ tunes it such that the speakers assist each other so it sounds cool. Do it right, and you can even make door speakers sound like there is tiny puffs of bass coming out of it. Like with anything, more speakers isn't necessarily better -- it's about how you use them. Probably very basic concepts to experienced audio folks, but all this was brand new to me.

Fifth, I asked Sandy if he thinks car audio sound quality has been getting better, worse, or staying same over the past couple decades, generally speaking. Of course it depends and every brand, model, and vintage has unique specifics. But for some brands it has definitely been getting worse. One reason is he has seen panel designs get thinner and cheaper over time to reduce weight and cost. Another is that Audio Quality simply isn't a top priority for many brands, especially when there are Federal and International requirements such as Safety and EPA (mpg) that are mission critical areas of focus to get a car out the door. A third, is most people take audio for granted and happy with the basics.

Like me at the very start of this wall of text.

However, every era has their gems. A recent example with good off-the-lot sound systems were the first gen Model 3's and Y's. The thinking is Tesla wanted to come out with a statement by providing great quality-of-life features. However, later gens have begun dialing back. "2024 Jan - Tesla drastically downgrades Model Y sound system"

Six, use high quality audio file source. I'm a newb, but once explained the concept is so plain and simple. If your music source is bad, the best speakers in the world can't help you. Garbage In, Garbage Out. To take advantage of a good system, feed it high quality source material.

CD Quality is best (1411Kbps). Qobuz streams 1411Kbps. Other good streaming services are Tidal, Amazon Music Unlimited, Apple Music Lossless which are at or near CD Quality 1411Kbps. If you're not using a USB Stick with high quality audio files, the recommendation is to try streaming from any one of the high quality services mentioned above. Spotify is 320Kbps, SiriusXM 256Kbps. There's a notable audio difference between 320 vs 256. The advantage of SiriusXM is radio-like programming and good coverage in the US/Canada (less dead spots).

So where does that bring us...?

Here are some modern configs, with ones I have tried in BOLD. All assumes ASD off.

1. Stock Amp
2. Tadda on the Cheap (panel off + EQ)
3. Full Tadda (foam, stuffing, dynamat, punch holes)
4. Current Gen OEM Audio+
5. OEM Audio+ and Sub Panel Removed, Flat EQ, Surround Off
6. OEM Audio+ and Full Tadda
7. OEM Audio+ and Orella 9-piece speaker
8. OEM Audio+ and Orella 9-piece speaker and Full Tadda
9. [deprecated] Original OEM Audio+ Tunings (Stock 8" Subs Disabled)

Of the four configs I've tried so far, OEM Audio+TotC sounds best (Config 5).

OEM Audio+ (Config 4) absolutely sounds better than Stock Amp (Config 1). I also spent multiple back-to-back midnight Canyon Runs comparing (Config 2) vs (Config 5). Config 5 sounds and feels much better than Config 2.

Config 5 also sounds noticeably better than Config 4. Removing that sub panel is a big help. Intuitively, this makes sense. Given that the 8" subs have been reassigned and back alive, the speakers need to open up so they're not suffocating for air. The physics has not changed. Basically, OEM Audio+ with TotC sounds best so far.

This leads me to believe I need to go OA+ & Full Tadda (Config 6) to get the best out of the current tunings. Before doing this, I'm actually really curious to try the original tunings where the stock subs are deleted and only the OEM Audio+ sub is used (Config 9). But seems that ship has sailed. Or I guess is out at sea. <frymoneymeme.jpg>

Anyway. I'm gonna go for Full Tadda with OEM Audio+ soon. I'm also really curious about Config 8....

Being real, I seriously was expecting my mod progression path to be a vanilla DP+JB4+Intake path. But the Supra's audio quality was SO bad I found myself stuck in a completely different rabbit hole, and I'm actually really enjoying it.

Thank you Supra, for being so bad at music. The project car that keeps on giving.

 

[Sam B]

It’s a slippery slope. Check out the DIY audio forum.
The Supra is a great platform for true SQ. Takes a lot though

 

[JRedMKV]

Has anyone installed this subwoofer with a Studio RSR roll cage? Does it fit? Do they rub together causing weird noises if it does fit?

Thanks.

 

[Razors Edge]

Next time read what I wrote, instead of just the first line and acting like I’m being an idiot.
Physical products? No, you aren’t getting much more than a single sub solution. You’re getting the tuning, which is more important than the components, and I get that. You get the exact same thing with all of their kits for other cars, which cost half or less than this system.
Defend it all you want - I don’t care, because, again, if you actually read my post, I’m not knocking it, so stop being defensive, ffs.

Evidently you were correct. They shit down Feb 2026. No longer in business.

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