Audio upgrade options

[tadda]

Anyone following this audio upgrade option by OEM Audio Plus? It's still under development...

I like that this system will also offer multi channel amp and dsp...My understanding is that with this kit our current "subs" would be used as woofers (using cutoff filter) and that an additional sub is added to the system...

OEM Audio Plus for Supra

FEATURES:

• Designed and tuned specifically for the Supra A90

• Supra-Specific Subwoofer System

• Multi-Channel Power Amplifier

• Pre-Calibrated Digital Signal Processor (64-Bit)

• Plug and Play Installation

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[JasonO]

Anyone following this audio upgrade option by OEM Audio Plus? It's still under development...

I like that this system will also offer multi channel amp and dsp...My understanding is that with this kit our current "subs" would be used as woofers (using cutoff filter) and that an additional sub is added to the system...

OEM Audio Plus for Supra

FEATURES:

• Designed and tuned specifically for the Supra A90

• Supra-Specific Subwoofer System

• Multi-Channel Power Amplifier

• Pre-Calibrated Digital Signal Processor (64-Bit)

• Plug and Play Installation

If I had to guess, they are waiting on Audison for an amp option like Bavsound.

 

[Famo]

Anyone following this audio upgrade option by OEM Audio Plus? It's still under development...

I like that this system will also offer multi channel amp and dsp...My understanding is that with this kit our current "subs" would be used as woofers (using cutoff filter) and that an additional sub is added to the system...

OEM Audio Plus for Supra

FEATURES:

• Designed and tuned specifically for the Supra A90

• Supra-Specific Subwoofer System

• Multi-Channel Power Amplifier

• Pre-Calibrated Digital Signal Processor (64-Bit)

• Plug and Play Installation

This seems promising actually looks better than the bavsound option. Might just wait for this.

 

[30MilesOffshore]

OE Rear Woofers

Questions to remove the sub enclosures:

1) To access (#12) it looks like the center console will need to be removed. Is the center console clipped in? Or are there screws there to look for in that area too?

2) To access (#10) it looks like we will need to remove the door sill trim. Did anyone have any issues with this area?

3) To access (#6) will the plastic trim above this need to be removed too? Does it simple pry out or are there screws located in this trim piece?

Thanks!

 

[jopfer]

Questions to remove the sub enclosures:

1) To access (#12) it looks like the center console will need to be removed. Is the center console clipped in? Or are there screws there to look for in that area too?

2) To access (#10) it looks like we will need to remove the door sill trim. Did anyone have any issues with this area?

3) To access (#6) will the plastic trim above this need to be removed too? Does it simple pry out or are there screws located in this trim piece?

Thanks!

To get to #12 the center console (parts) are removed. Take out the plastic piece that sits in the bottom of the cup holders. There are 2 #20 torx screws there. The cup holder then pulls off. After that the little cubby over that pulls straight up. There are 2 small holes under that little plastic thing deep in the cubby but mine didn’t have screws. From there you should be able to see those nuts to remove.

To access #10 you do have to pull the door sill. It’s 4 clips so just pull up. No problems. From there, to remove that trim piece there is a 10mm plastic nut.

To get to #6, you have to first remove the piece that wraps around near the ceiling towards the hatch. All clips no screws. Then you have to remove the piece that the seatbelt goes through. Again, no screws just panel clips. However this piece is fragile so be carefully. That will expose those screws (#6). To remove that piece though you do have to remove the aluminum strut bar. This is a #50 torx.

 

[30MilesOffshore]

jopfer, I appreciate the feedback! I plan to take everything all apart this weekend and wanted to make sure I had everything setup correctly. Thanks!

 

[tadda]

I found this pic posted with rear woofers and enclosures removed...wondering if the woofer enclosures have ports on the bottom of their enclosures? See chassis cutouts shown below...

Rear OE woofers with enclosures shown below:

 

[30MilesOffshore]

Interesting find. If they are ported, you can definitely play with the port to tune it to different frequency responses. I'll try to post up what I find when I get them removed. My plan was to stuff them with polyfill and to dynamat the subbox and other areas.

 

[tadda]

Here is a closeup...I just verified visually by removing narrow rear panel that our subs are indeed ported directly below their woofer enclosures...With heavy bass played it's amazing the amount of air pushed out through the 3 elliptical slots shown on attached pic....Also of interest is that it appears that the exit ports (shown in blue arrows) are literally blocked by the narrow rear panel...

The woofer enclosures themselves appear to be isolated from the chassis with a gasket running around the bottom of each box and secured to the chassis by mounting on top of rubber standoffs....

I suspect much of the low bass vibrations are coming from the narrow chassis cavity which runs under the woofer enclosures...

 

[30MilesOffshore]

Did you play any music with the back cover off? How did it affect the sound quality? That cover has insulation padding right over those ports so I wondered what type of difference it made with it on vs off? I doubt the holes are used to tune the subs frequencies, that's more of the port design for that (width and length). I would imagine that they put the cutouts to decrease the bass resonating off the metal. If the air was completely released it would definitely cut down on the rattle and muddy muffle sound.

 

[tadda]

Did you play any music with the back cover off? How did it affect the sound quality? That cover has insulation padding right over those ports so I wondered what type of difference it made with it on vs off? I doubt the holes are used to tune the subs frequencies, that's more of the port design for that (width and length). I would imagine that they put the cutouts to decrease the bass resonating off the metal. If the air was completely released it would definitely cut down on the rattle and muddy muffle sound.

Yes, I did play deep bass music with the narrow cover panel removed...Bass seemed to have a somewhat deeper response with far less low freq vibration...

That insulation you see on the narrow cover plate isn't thick enough to cover over the 3 elongated openings...The insulations is apparently used to reduce that panel from rattling...

Also, with the narrow cover removed I did actually cover those 3 elongated openings while playing deep bass and the vibration was absolutely horrible with bass response noticeably lessened...

I'm wondering if a 2" hole punched into that narrow cover plate in front of those 3 elongated exhaust holes might help with both vibrations and improve low freq response?

Side note: there are quite a number areas that need to have vibrations eliminated within the rear cargo area...I've identified a number of areas but it';s like a game of wack-a-mole where you eliminate a few key areas and then start to notice other spots you missed!

 

[30MilesOffshore]

I'm wondering if a 2" hole punched into that narrow cover plate in front of those 3 elongated exhaust holes might help with both vibrations and improve low freq response?

That was my thoughts too. I feel the cover could possibly be restricting the air flow. My biggest concern with the port is that I believe they ported the box to help with the fake exhaust "rumble" notes that are pumped through the speakers. They were using the port to create the Active Sound Design (ASD) versus using the port to actually tune the music. I'm gonna run a few tests trying a couple of different scenarios. I'll try with the ASD on/off, and the cover plate on/off, and I want to also try sealing off the port, plus slowing air flow down through the port by stuffing it. As far as the sound dampening, you are right about the "Whack-A-Mole", but you can never go wrong with putting it on everything, especially any thin metal pieces in the area.

 

[Guff]

I have the car fully stripped in the rear with just the subs bolted in. Sounds so much better than factory but that's just because the factory pre-production car I was driving around in before was rattling like a mf lol. Turning off Active Sound Design may have contributed to that.

 

[tadda]

...My biggest concern with the port is that I believe they ported the box to help with the fake exhaust "rumble" notes that are pumped through the speakers. They were using the port to create the Active Sound Design (ASD) versus using the port to actually tune the music. I'm gonna run a few tests trying a couple of different scenarios. I'll try with the ASD on/off, and the cover plate on/off, and I want to also try sealing off the port, plus slowing air flow down through the port by stuffing it...

I removed active sound design a while ago which did help cleanup the low bass sound quality but did nothing to reduce low freq vibrations...I have doubts they added those 3 elongated ports with ASD in mind...I'm fairly certain those 3 elongated exhaust ports where added in an attempt to reduce chassis vibrations...I found this by sealing off those those ports while listening to low bass and the vibrations went through the roof and low bass response was reduced...

That said, it will be interesting to hear what you do find as well...

I was able to eliminate nearly 90% of the low freq distortion and vibrational noise by eliminating faux engine noise (which is only active in sport mode), playing with the sound EQ, and adding felt padding in some key areas which I mention in earlier posts...

I think that rear narrow panel and 3 elongated exhaust ports (6 total) punch into the chassis are most likely the main sources for the remaining vibrations...As mentioned earlier, I would like to add a 2" port on the narrow rear panel in front of those elongated holes to redirect the exhaust energy into the cargo area rather than having it contained within that narrow plastic rear panel area...

I would also like to remove the entire woofer assembly (including plastic enclosure) so I can first line the exhaust cavity walls and floor with sound deadening mat and then add some 1~2" thick batting along the walls...I think there is enough room to work with to get some mat added there...

Reposted image for reference...

 

[30MilesOffshore]

I'm pulling everything apart but got to a part that I'm stuck on. Can someone chime in with some guidance? The sub baffle panel has two bolts behind the center console/arm rest area (#12 in earlier diagram from post #70).

I can not see those bolts at all. I've already removed the cup holder and storage cubby hole. Do I also need to remove the entire center console (circled in red) to access the two screws on the baffle board #12? Seems like overkill to me. Anyone have any tips to get to them? The center console is one really long solid piece.

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