Best - Simplest way to fix the Supra for tracking?

[razorlab]

Also TPMS only updates every 15 secs or so. I would get less than four updates per lap at LRP. Basically useless.

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[Subydude]

Less button/clicky things to remember to turn off before going on track.

Below 25psi the TPMS would turn TC back on while driving to the hot pits and then I would need to remember to turn TC back off before going on track.

If you do the TPMS learn with the tires at cold starting pressure it doesn't care and will use that as your "ok" pressure. I do agree that it's an extra step, but I like having the temp sensor info it provides since it gives a good indication of when things are getting too hot. I've found on the 71RZ as the temp sensor goes above about 150 I shouldn't start another flying lap, and when I get them below 140ish from cooldown laps I "should" have enough capacity to run another hot lap.

When I swap to the track wheels I usually do the learn procedure at 25 psi so I don't have issues later.

 

[razorlab]

If you do the TPMS learn with the tires at cold starting pressure it doesn't care and will use that as your "ok" pressure. I do agree that it's an extra step, but I like having the temp sensor info it provides since it gives a good indication of when things are getting too hot. I've found on the 71RZ as the temp sensor goes above about 150 I shouldn't start another flying lap, and when I get them below 140ish from cooldown laps I "should" have enough capacity to run another hot lap.

When I swap to the track wheels I usually do the learn procedure at 25 psi so I don't have issues later.

Yes, that won't help when it drops below 25psi between sessions. I ain't driving around the pits for 5 minutes to have it learn again before a session.

The 15 sec update per data point also doesn't work for me. Basically useless.

 

[Dantist]

Less button/clicky things to remember to turn off before going on track.

Below 25psi the TPMS would turn TC back on while driving to the hot pits and then I would need to remember to turn TC back off before going on track.

I was wondering why my TC was turning back on since I've been playing with the pressures on my 71RZ's. Thanks for the insight.

In my short experience (3 track days) with the RZ's, they seemed to do better with around 31-32 hot vs 34.

 

[the_dude]

Also TPMS only updates every 15 secs or so. I would get less than four updates per lap at LRP. Basically useless.

hmm, didn't know the freq was that low. i was using it to keep an eye on the temps for the most part.

 

[Autojvnkie]

Start simple with tires and pressures. Even with a set of re71rz’s being a few pounds too low feels pretty bad.

Tires are the most essential and primary focus.

 

[zpower86]

I am late to the party on the Mk 5 Supra. I purchased a 2026 at the beginning of the summer. I have tracked it a few times so far. Thompson in CT. and Palmer and MA. I noticed a few others in the forums also track in the Northeast. At Thompson, the Supra feels pretty good in stock form. A bit soft/ floaty at speed but manageable. At Palmer, it felt much more floaty, (sorry, best way I can describe it). There were times that it also felt like the rear of the car was disconnected from the rest of the car, making rear grip unpredictable. I am looking for the shortest/ simplest path to, at a minimum, solve the rear feeling disconnected to the rest of the car. Remove some of the floaty feeling. (Suspension? or Down force?) I am also looking for a suggestion for camber plates for the front. I would prefer not to completely ruin the car for road use, but I think I am going to have to sacrifice a bit of street-ability to feel a little more comfortable on track. Thanks in advance for any input.

I think the minimal fix on a stock supra is:

$311: Add aFe or Eibach front sway bar, full stiff setting for track.
$90-125: Near zero toe alignment, max front camber, and don't go overboard with too much rear camber.
$0: Mode: normal
$70: Experiment with adding a 2 or 3 or 5 mm rear spacer. (get wheel studs while you're at it +175)

Quick and easy to install (and uninstall). Doesn't change streetability.

Update: edited to list 2-3mm spacer, removing the 5mm recommendation.

 

[razorlab]

I think the minimal fix on a stock supra is:

$311: Add aFe or Eibach front sway bar, full stiff setting for track.
$90-125: Near zero toe alignment, max front camber, and don't go overboard with too much rear camber.
$0: Mode: normal
$70: Experiment with adding a 3 or 5 mm rear spacer. (get wheel studs while you're at it +175)

Quick and easy to install (and uninstall). Doesn't change streetability.

I would highly discourage using spacers with no wheel centric lip for track use. 3 and 5mm spacers (And almost all 10mm) do not have this, and depending on your wheel center bore design, the wheel might have nothing on the hub lip. 12mm+ do.

I would also discourage MH studs, they are very low quality. Invest in some good studs like MSI.

 

[EFD199]

As a guy who's gone WAY down this rabbit hole I'll tell you what I did and hopefully any of it helps. I started with springs and camber plates from Verus. That tightened things up and was relatively cheap. I did sway bars and that really made the front and back feel connected, but the cost to install the rear sway bar is crazy because the entire rear end has to be dropped to do it. Next I did the Verus front canards and rear diffuser. That felt like it cleaned up the high speed floating. I should mention Road America is my track for reference. Very high speeds. I did install a rear diff brace and that has been a great addition at a very reasonable cost. I went the next step on aero with the front splitter and rear swan neck spoiler and that has completely locked my car down. I'm running Cup 2s and unfortunately my car is fuel starved coming out the carousel after 5 laps. Too much grip and lateral G's for the stock pump sitting on the passenger side of the car. I'm currently running 2:29's at RA.

Yes to everyone's comments on tires
Yes to a track alignment
Springs and stock damper have been fine
Yes to camber plates
Yes to the rear differential brace

 

[zpower86]

To clarify, my main point is that the front sway bar will have the largest impact to resolving the issue relative to the cost. The installation is very easy.

Adding a little more spacer to the rear is also easy and helpful, although less impactful compared to the bar change. If I remember correctly, the OEM wheel bore will still engage with the hub just barely with a slip-on 3mm spacer. If worried about being hubcentric, get a 2mm spacer, or just don't mess with spacers. You could get thicker hubcentric spacers for all 4 wheels and make the rears thicker than the front, but now cost is into the hundreds and that money might be better used elsewhere.

 

[razorlab]

To clarify, my main point is that the front sway bar will have the largest impact to resolving the issue relative to the cost. The installation is very easy.

Agree here, I also stated the same thing earlier in the thread

 

[s.hammi]

What is everyone running for front camber plates, and a rear diff brace?

 

[i3igpete]

Anything but vorshlag for camber plates

Rear diff brace, there's really only one that fits all my criteria.

 

[steelpearl]

Anything but vorshlag for camber plates

Rear diff brace, there's really only one that fits all my criteria.

Vorshlag (and SPL lol) have been recommended to me by my mechanic and folks I’ve met at HPDE. I know both get a lot of negative reviews on here.

For the Vorshlag plates - what has been the issue with them? Search seems to yield some early run production issues for Supra? They still seem recommended on other platforms.

Planning on HKS springs and 18x11+40 apex wheels. Have eibach front sway already, eibach rear sway is waiting to get installed with everything else.

Here are the options I’m considering for geometry:
1) BBT full kit front and rear + Camber plates (Vorshlag or ???)
2) BBT full kit, less FLCA + Verkline FLCA (would this work with BBT’s front tie rod ends?)
3) BBT full kit (should yield ~2.5 front camber on its own) + OEM camber correction steering knuckles

Prefer option 1, but struggling with what plates to run.

OP sorry to hijack, but figured my questions were similar enough to add to the conversation!

 

[Traxion]

I had the full verkline kit on my last car and have the full bbt kit on current car. I’d recommend bbt. Verkline is overly adjustable and has more points for adjustment slippage or loosening. It’s definitely quality stuff but I really like how simple the bbt stuff is in comparison plus the huge price difference. If you’re gonna do verkline on anything it should be the caster arms as that’s the only way to adjust caster to match on both sides or add extra caster but that piece is pricey.

I have -4.4 front camber with bbt lca and ground control camber plates with room to add a tiny with more. I am on MCS suspension but I would think GC plates on oem suspension should probably still get a lot of negative camber.

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