Oil for supra????

Ivan27

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I got a nice supply of motor oil ready. Lol ?
I went to my local dealer to see if they had the Supra GR oil. I know the guy in the parts department, and he said he'd have to order some, I told him someone there said there's 3 quarts there. So he looked up on the puter and said nope none here. I told him to look in the back, and he found the three quarts. He said take them at no charge cause they were shipped to them instead of going to another dealer. I said what, and he said there not on the puter system, and take all 3. Was a happy camper since they charge $13.00 A quart.
 

Axix23

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I went to my local dealer to see if they had the Supra GR oil. I know the guy in the parts department, and he said he'd have to order some, I told him someone there said there's 3 quarts there. So he looked up on the puter and said nope none here. I told him to look in the back, and he found the three quarts. He said take them at no charge cause they were shipped to them instead of going to another dealer. I said what, and he said there not on the puter system, and take all 3. Was a happy camper since they charge $13.00 A quart.
I got my online through Daytona Toyota... Free shipping too..
 

polaris

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Here's my Blackstone report on my factory fill oil sample taken at 2500 miles, for whoever's interested. Followed the manual (for the most part) for the first 1200 miles, had a track day at 1900 miles, and a good bit of spirited driving on the roads mixed with regular cruising.

Filled up with more GR Supra 0W-20 that I'll be changing out again at 5k. Once I get the results of that sample I'll make a decision to stay on the Supra branded 0W-20 or move up to xW-30 at 10k miles.

tempsnip.png
 

Heavy Foot

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I put in 2 stoke motorcycle oil in yesterday. 6,5 litres. I hope it works out. I'll keep everyone posted. It's just an experiment to see if it will slow down the consumption issue.
 

obito

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I live in the mid-atlantic and I want this engine to be reliable and healthy for fall/winter engine starts. I'll probably stick with 0W-20, any ILSAC certified brand. If anyone recommends otherwise, please let me know.
 

RWhiz

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Long story but I’ll gonna run 4.28w-28.57

I think it’ll work.
 

RWhiz

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Fresh fill of 5W-30 but the 0W-20 left behind in the block diluting it lol?
Haha, almost. I have 12 quarts of 10w-40 left over from my 911, so I blending it with some 0w-20 at a 3:4 ratio to get that viscosity, which is pretty close to optimal I think.
 

Neo1967

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Anyone else using Royal Purple for their oil change?
Opinion on Royal Purple?
 

Thraxbert

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Anyone else using Royal Purple for their oil change?
Opinion on Royal Purple?
Royal Purple's ZDDP content is too high for all but a flat tappet engine. Like, if you have a classic car with a pushrod V8 and a carb, Royal Purple is pretty good. But if you have a modern car, you need a more modern formulation with a different additive package.

Amsoil Signature Series 5W30 ("100% Synthetic" on the label)

Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30

Quaker State Full Synthetic Euro 0W40

High Performance Lubricants Heavy Duty Engine ("HPL HDEO") 5W30

All fantastic options for the Supra as you please.
 

Loco38SUP

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RenRed2

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I called up BMW parts dept, asked them what oil they use for the 58 engine that’s in the Toyota Supra, and they have a 0-20 oil
For $10.49 per qt, no other oil is listed for that motor..

Additive package for certain items as noted below are part of the differences. This is from the link a member referred you to. Use the latest BMW spec oil you can find no matter where you get it - BMW or Toyota. If you use a name brand type oil ensure it lists the current BMW spec. See the text in red below for an example of what Im talking about. Using just any 0-20 is not a great idea overall but the world will not end. If you care about long term viability then use the correct spec as noted in your owners manual. Additionally if you have a severe engine issue/failure your oil will be tested to see if it meets the spec. If not your warranty for that engine is gone. Simple automaker policy.

API SP. Released in 2020. Details to follow but this standard explicitly mentions 0W20 and 0W16 oil weights and direct injection.
API SN. Intended for 2007+ gasoline direct injection cars with ceramic catalytic converters instead of metallic cats. As large amounts of zinc and phosphate (ZDDP) and carbon ash (SAPS) are harmful to the ceramic material, they have been replaced with other additives. More detergents have been added to prevent carbon and sludge build-up (see the section below on Direct Injection engines). This is not bad oil for these engines and if you still have factory cats this is the oil rating you should be using. Bonus points if the bottle carries a Mercedes 229.5 (MB229.5) approval as Mercedes standards are among the highest of OE manufacturers. If you need extra protection for track use or aggressive driving, switch to a thicker viscosity.
API SM. 2005-2010 models but this doesn't really apply to BMW. Use an SN oil for a car that retains all of its factory equipment.
API SL. 2005 or older. Many people consider SL to be the last "good oil" before ZDDP levels were reduced. We recommend an SL oil for pretty much all cars built before the E90 generation: E85, E83, E63, E60, E53, E46, E39, E38, Z3, E36, E34, and E32. It can be used in E30 and older models too but only in thicker viscosity. These cars can use an SN oil but SL is much more appropriate. It can also be used in newer cars (E9X, F3X, etc) that have had cats removed (such as race cars) or street cars converted to metallic cats. The higher ZDDP levels will be advantageous in aggressive driving.
API SJ. 2001 and older. The original formula for cars built in the 1990s or older but you're not likely to find it anymore. See API SL above.

The BimmerWorld View: If you're going to use an older API oil on a newer car (SL on a E92 335i or F82 M4, for examples) you must be aware of the differences. The higher ZDDP and SAPS will shorten the life of a factory ceramic catalytic converter. It could also clog the catalytic converter leading to a major loss of power or engine damage. You must allow the oil to reach operating temperature - no heavy throttle until warm and avoid short trips. Keeping the oil warm-hot will help in proper oil burning and re-circulation. If other mods dictate higher ZDDP you should really consider an aftermarket metallic cat.
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