Racebred front splitter install notes

[Traxion]

I've already contacted racebred

Did you have to pay anything for the revised ones?

Sponsored

 

[i3igpete]

Did you have to pay anything for the revised ones?

They said they were aware of the issue and already had the revised self-gripping cable hooks in stock. Did not have to pay to replace, they just asked for my address.

 

[i3igpete]

just received the revised cable hook on the left. Was kind of hoping that it would have a compression locknut but we'll see if this does the trick.

backup option
https://www.steelropes24.com/cable-gripper-black-with-hook

backup-backup option.
https://ajhartmanaero.com/compressible-splitter-rods-pair/
upper clevis would need some sort of male-male hex thread adapter to go from m10 rivnut to 1/4-20. probably this one
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/91091A126

 

[i3igpete]

Quick update, rechecking tension after a day at grattan and 3-hour drive each way. I think these are holding on. Before these things would be completely flaccid.

Have two full weekends in June and will report back after those.

 

[i3igpete]

Update: No, they did not hold tension after two track weekends.

I reached out to racebred again, they didn't really have a solution other than sending another set of swages and upper clevises, which would make it non-adjustable on both sides. That, or switching to some ProAwe rods.

For now, I Rigged together a setup from home depot. Kind of a pain fiddling with the clamps to get the right amount of tension , but at least I know the cables won't slip.

 

[Rmak]

Just a heads up that the support cables might microslip over time and cause your splitter to droop. I've already had to pull off my bumper twice to re-tension the cables. mike @ bossboss confirmed the same issue on his side when i messaged him.

I've already contacted racebred, and they said they have a revised quick release hook that should hopefully hold on tighter. Will report back once those arrive. If they won't hold, then I'll probably switch to AJH or PA rods as a last resort.

I had the same problem with these. They're junk and you can find them for sale on amazon for cheap. Even if you get them to not slip, they fray the cable and then you can never adjust them. Eventually hooks failed/bent and the splitter slammed down at ~155 mph going into a breaking zone.

Kind of wild they sell this product and clearly never tested or revised it. I'm continually amazed at the delicate junk that is sold for this car and marketed for "track days" and "racing".

I replaced with a homedepot cables like you initially. Later I moved the clevises far forward on the splitter (in front of the bumper) so there's better leverage and less force on the cables. Not as good for aerodynamics surely but can get away with much small cables. I should have just made a carbon splitter from the start but was trying to save time.

 

[i3igpete]

Are you supporting the center L-bracket at all anymore, or just the 2 forward clevises?

I've also debating on reusing the upper rivnut with a m10-to-m8 stud and trimming the mesh (similar to the ajh instructions) , vs adding new separate m8 studs further outward, which did you go with?

.

Also, when I was looking up the R&D racing car up close, they went even wider with their rods.

.

 

[Rmak]

Are you supporting the center L-bracket at all anymore, or just the 2 forward clevises?

I've also debating on reusing the upper rivnut with a m10-to-m8 stud and trimming the mesh (similar to the ajh instructions) , vs adding new separate m8 studs further outward, which did you go with?

.

Also, when I was looking up the R&D racing car up close, they went even wider with their rods.

.

I've got it setup almost identical to AJs and reused the original rivnut on the bumper bar. Also move the clevises wider. I actually removed the entire plastic mesh and replaced with wire mesh (too many rocks and pickup hitting the radiators). I removed the steel angle/L bracket because I didn't think it was doing anything and haven't had problems with it removed. That angle was just in front of the brackets that mount to the chassis so isn't necessary. If anything it needs more support at the lateral ends.

 

[i3igpete]

All the homies give up on the cables eventually

For the upper clevis, if you want to use the lower lip, you need to make the hole about 1/3 of the way down on the bottom lip thing. 1/2 is too low, look at the crash bar from the side and you'll see what i mean.

If you use a higher spot you may not be able to reach the upper clevis pin with the bumper on if you have fat fingers

Sponsored