When will you do your first oil change?

Rocksandblues

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worth it to send sample of first oil change? Certainly it will show break in material/elements. worth getting a base line? or wait till second. i am around 2500 miles. reason for early change is to flush out break in and 3 track days.
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I honestly have never cared on my cars. The only concern I have is oil consumption on new engines and how it slows (or not) as more miles are driven. Issue with the electronic dip stick is I can't tell the minute differences in oil levels as the indicator is not really precise. You only got like 'over full, full, kind of full, I guess low?' readings.
 

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I honestly have never cared on my cars. The only concern I have is oil consumption on new engines and how it slows (or not) as more miles are driven. Issue with the electronic dip stick is I can't tell the minute differences in oil levels as the indicator is not really precise. You only got like 'over full, full, kind of full, I guess low?' readings.
Normal Oil Consumption for the B-series turbo engines (B46, B58) is 1 liter per 1,500 miles.

Source: https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/
 

BA9092

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The real question should be will you let the dealer put 0w20 or 0w30 ACEA C5 and API SN oil that is way too thin for the B58 engine and likely only used to meet CAFE: corporate fuel efficiency standards.

I don't believe any 0w20 or 0w30 ACEA C5 and API SN oil has the appropriate High-Temperature/High-Shear Viscosity level necessary to handle the engines level of power output. You need ā‰„ 3.5 cP HTHS viscosity to protect your B58 engine if you ever plan on accelerating hard, which I would believe we all do on a regular basis, at least I do. I believe BMW use to use 5w30 for this power plant, and with technology advances in the lubrication sector 0w40 is what I've seen used recently as a balance of protection and efficiency, and that oil is ā‰„ 3.5 cP HTHS viscosity if you were wondering.
I agree. Good point.

However, I'm still apprehensive about using anything other than what's recommended in the owner's manual. What are the odds that if choose to use a better oil for engine protection and then IF something were to happen to the engine for some reason, Toyota/BMW would void your claim since you didn't used the specified oil.

I'm still hesitant as to what to use after my break-in period. I'd hate to avoid piggybacks and tuning to keep my engine's warranty only to find out that the "better" oil would leave me in the dust as it wasn't up to OEM specs.

It's a sports car. Certainly Toyota and BMW don't expect you to baby it around like a Corola. If they want 0w-20 C5 SN oil in it, they must know something. I think I'd rather use their recommendations and let THEM deal with issues of wear and leaks as I've used THEIR recommended oil at the end of the day. :dunno:
 

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Rocksandblues

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Puzzled,
You should always change oil before putting away. That way all the corrosive and bad byproducts of combustion donā€™t sit and work on internals for X number of months

fwiw:
Pics of oil at 2500 miles which included 3 track days
C90A08D4-DC34-4196-B34F-55F0E0D09E3C.jpeg

03D706E5-3AB1-46EC-83B0-1EFC5AD08646.jpeg
 

Take_my_money

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I agree. Good point.

However, I'm still apprehensive about using anything other than what's recommended in the owner's manual. What are the odds that if choose to use a better oil for engine protection and then IF something were to happen to the engine for some reason, Toyota/BMW would void your claim since you didn't used the specified oil.

I'm still hesitant as to what to use after my break-in period. I'd hate to avoid piggybacks and tuning to keep my engine's warranty only to find out that the "better" oil would leave me in the dust as it wasn't up to OEM specs.

It's a sports car. Certainly Toyota and BMW don't expect you to baby it around like a Corola. If they want 0w-20 C5 SN oil in it, they must know something. I think I'd rather use their recommendations and let THEM deal with issues of wear and leaks as I've used THEIR recommended oil at the end of the day. :dunno:
I would ask myself, what is likely to go wrong and point back at the oil being the leading cause, I can't think of anything off the top of my head, therefore I would believe the odds are unlikely for any warranty claims to be voided because you used an oil that provides greater protection. BMW and Toyota uses 0W20 oil in the B58 engine of cars sold in the US. Those cars with the B58 engine sold elsewhere use 5W30 oil. Why? CAFE: corporate fuel efficiency standards. The difference being, one is to meet a standard put forth via legislation, and the other is recommended by the engineers who designed and built the engine.
 

BA9092

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I would ask myself, what is likely to go wrong and point back at the oil being the leading cause, I can't think of anything off the top of my head, therefore I would believe the odds are unlikely for any warranty claims to be voided because you used an oil that provides greater protection. BMW and Toyota uses 0W20 oil in the B58 engine of cars sold in the US. Those cars with the B58 engine sold elsewhere use 5W30 oil. Why? CAFE: corporate fuel efficiency standards. The difference being, one is to meet a standard put forth via legislation, and the other is recommended by the engineers who designed and built the engine.
Good points.

However, in the B58 related BMW and bob-is-the-oil-guy forums, they state that the reason behind the US choosing the 0W-20 is not only for CAFE but because our fuel quality and grades are different than those outside the US.

I haven't dug any deeper to see if anyone has had any issues (in the US) over at BMW regarding warranty claims with a thicker oil.

I don't plan on tuning...yet. So I'll stick with the 0W-20 for now. I can see why a thicker oil would be even more beneficial in a tuned engine though, but then again, all bets are off on powertrain warranty once you tune anyway.
 

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Good points.

However, in the B58 related BMW and bob-is-the-oil-guy forums, they state that the reason behind the US choosing the 0W-20 is not only for CAFE but because our fuel quality and grades are different than those outside the US.

I haven't dug any deeper to see if anyone has had any issues (in the US) over at BMW regarding warranty claims with a thicker oil.

I don't plan on tuning...yet. So I'll stick with the 0W-20 for now. I can see why a thicker oil would be even more beneficial in a tuned engine though, but then again, all bets are off on powertrain warranty once you tune anyway.

Yes, you are partly correct, the US created the Tier 3 program which considers the vehicle and its fuel as an integrated system to reduce the impacts of motor vehicles on air quality and public health. The program set new vehicle emissions standards and lowered the sulfur content of gasoline to a maximum of 10ppm beginning in 2017. The program grew out of a Clean Air Act, and ever since 2017 our fuel quality standards have been in line with those in Europe, but not before then. Before this change had occurred, oil used in the US often times used additional alkaline additives in order to combat the build-up of acids in a lubricant as it breaks down. Refer to the Total Base Number (TBN), which is a measure of alkaline concentration present in a lubricant. The higher the TBN, the more protection you get from sulfur or other acid compounds. You'll look on the tech specs of any given oil to find those numbers. Above 8.5 TBN provides decent protection in countries with 10ppm or fewer sulfur content in the gasoline. Most all engine oils are formulated with >8.5 TBN. Now back to CAFE and the viscosity of the oil, those things are directly related. To play it safe, any oil used in the B58 engine should at the very minimum have 3.5 cP or greater High-Temperature/High-Shear Viscosity rating measured using ASTM D5481. For B58 Turbo engine Bimmer world recommends 5w-30, 10w-40, 5w-40 or 0w-30.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

The link also provides some interesting comments on driving habits to avoid oil sludge and build-up, basically hinting if you drive in low RPM often (not in sport mode) it's probably not good for your engine.
 

BA9092

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Yes, you are partly correct, the US created the Tier 3 program which considers the vehicle and its fuel as an integrated system to reduce the impacts of motor vehicles on air quality and public health. The program set new vehicle emissions standards and lowered the sulfur content of gasoline to a maximum of 10ppm beginning in 2017. The program grew out of a Clean Air Act, and ever since 2017 our fuel quality standards have been in line with those in Europe, but not before then. Before this change had occurred, oil used in the US often times used additional alkaline additives in order to combat the build-up of acids in a lubricant as it breaks down. Refer to the Total Base Number (TBN), which is a measure of alkaline concentration present in a lubricant. The higher the TBN, the more protection you get from sulfur or other acid compounds. You'll look on the tech specs of any given oil to find those numbers. Above 8.5 TBN provides decent protection in countries with 10ppm or fewer sulfur content in the gasoline. Most all engine oils are formulated with >8.5 TBN. Now back to CAFE and the viscosity of the oil, those things are directly related. To play it safe, any oil used in the B58 engine should at the very minimum have 3.5 cP or greater High-Temperature/High-Shear Viscosity rating measured using ASTM D5481. For B58 Turbo engine Bimmer world recommends 5w-30, 10w-40, 5w-40 or 0w-30.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

The link also provides some interesting comments on driving habits to avoid oil sludge and build-up, basically hinting if you drive in low RPM often (not in sport mode) it's probably not good for your engine.
Great info, thank you!

I've seen very few vendors and oil company websites recommend any oils other than the OEM 0W-20 for the A90. Either it's just a new model or they don't have enough info. I've also searched for B58 and Z4 recommendations. Some have included the Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 and Liqui Moly 5W-30 (either Special Tec or Top Tec.)

I may wait until the summer to go thicker.
 

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I just ordered everything I need for my first oil change. OEM filter, and Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W-30.
We're a little under 900 miles on the odometer at the moment, so I might wait a week or 2 and see if I can get to a 1000 before the weather turns.
I believe in a hard break-in so my car was run in properly when hot from about 150 miles and up. Running through the rev range for 3 or 4 gears on on-ramps and heavy engine braking on off-ramps. Followed by regular cruising on the interstate to cool things down. I'm going to do my oil change soon as previously mentioned, and then again after my track day in July 2021.
 

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GR Supra oil came in finally!!
 

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Who did you buy your GR oil from and cost?
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